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Plating

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  • Rainer S.
    Very Frequent User
    • May 31, 2003
    • 468

    Plating

    I have a Caswell zink plating kit (Copy Cad), but I just can't get the finish right.
    I thought it maybe due to the old anode material, which is just about 50% gone. So I ordered a new set of Anodes. The results are the same. The finish comes out blue-ish dull, not light in color.
    I use a very good power supply, keeping the load down to .5 amps. heating and bubbling solution.
    Per Caswell, the solution does not "wear out". I am using the brightener, per instructions.
    What am I doing wrong ? I have only one or two parts left to do (Fuel door back plate, hood latch pins). Hate to send them out (min charge is $ 250).
    Sure would like to get it to work...

    Rainer

    Rainer
  • Gerard F.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • June 30, 2004
    • 3803

    #2
    Re: Plating

    Rainer,

    Not sure if you are using the new or the old Caswell copy cad solution. I am more familiar with the old, and still use the old solution.

    The old solution does wear out or build up contaminants. See the manual about cleaning up the solution. You can filter it through charcoal to remove the brightener and other contaminants. You could plate some dummy parts with the new anodes, this puts the zinc in the solution (I think it is zinc chloride, whereby the chloride exchanges the zinc from the anode, puts it in the solution, and thence on the part), and plates out some contaminants.

    Also the brightener wears out quickly. You need to continue to replenish it.

    A lot of my plating comes out dull gray and I plan on doing post finishing with a nylon wheel. Just too cheap to keep adding brightener.

    Last resort is to change the solution.
    Jerry Fuccillo
    1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968

    Comment

    • Rainer S.
      Very Frequent User
      • May 31, 2003
      • 468

      #3
      Re: Plating

      Thanks, Jerry. I am using the old solution 4 (years old ?) The solution is pretty clean, but I will filter it again.
      Also used your suggestion to polish the parts after plating. Comes out OK, looks like "Patina". I like the look over the really bright, new look.

      Rainer

      Comment

      • Gerard F.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • June 30, 2004
        • 3803

        #4
        Re: Plating

        Rainer,

        Also, before each use, I usually dip the zinc anode in muriatic acid solution (cut 2 to 1), then wire wheel the anode to a bright finish. Seems to help.
        Jerry Fuccillo
        1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968

        Comment

        • Rainer S.
          Very Frequent User
          • May 31, 2003
          • 468

          #5
          Re: Plating

          Jerry,

          You sure have good ideas... I finished coating my few parts with marginal results. Since the anodes where new, didn't haver to dip them etc. And I cut them in 2, as you suggested.
          For the next time, I will filter the solution thru charcoal. Let's see, if I can improve the results.
          I am sending my gas lid out to be chromed, them restore the tabs as per Bob Youngs write-up.
          Thanks for your good advise.

          Rainer

          Comment

          • Jeffrey S.
            Extremely Frequent Poster
            • May 31, 1988
            • 1878

            #6
            Re: Plating

            I have been using the CopyCad system for several years and I find that if I go over the plated part with Brillo the results are a perfect match for cad plating. In fact, if I purchase a reproduction fastener I strip the bright zinc off and replate the part. My biggest complaint about the repro fasteners is that they don't look at all like factory parts- they are way too bright. If I want a brighter finish I use a wire wheel on the part before plating and a light wire wheeling after plating.
            Jeff

            Comment

            • Rainer S.
              Very Frequent User
              • May 31, 2003
              • 468

              #7
              Re: Plating

              I will try the Brillo pad on my plated parts before I install them. With all the good advise everyone gave me, I should get a good finish. I will also do some of the parts I did earlier over, if I can get a better looks with the brillo technique...
              I Agree with you Jeff, that most of the reproduction cadmium plated parts are way too bright. Case in point is, when I looked at a reproduction fuel door lid at a nearby Vendor, the cadmium was shiney, almost cheep looking.
              I passed on the item, and decided to restore mine. Ordered an emblem from Trim Parts (hope to get it in a few days). I plated my back plate and cleaned off the gray resedue with red scotch pad (a bit too cource).
              I will try the Brillo. If I can just get the ring re-chromed...
              My local chrome source wants 250 min. wish I had more parts to make it a batch, but I may go for it anyway. Time is running out. Not to many things left to do...

              Rainer

              Comment

              • Gerard F.
                Extremely Frequent Poster
                • June 30, 2004
                • 3803

                #8
                Re: Plating

                Rainer,

                Here's what I use for both prep and post plating finish:



                The blue nylon wheel is a medium to fine. Gives the part a little character.
                You could also use steel wool or synthetic steel wool in different grades to get the desired finish.

                Here's a part finished with the nylon wheel:



                Then give them a light coat of WD40 or TriFlow. It dulls them down slightly.
                Jerry Fuccillo
                1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968

                Comment

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