I've got a 66 with a bent lower torque control arm (Drivers Side) Any tricks to removing the bushing pin? It's seized up and cannot get a good ratchet head on it. Too close to the tank and cannot pry against the body for obvious reasons
Lower Control Arm/Bushing Pin
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Re: Lower Control Arm/Bushing Pin
I believe you're referring to the 3/8" BOLT that passes through the control arm forward bushing, securing the arm to the frame. If so, this bolt often "seizes" due to corrosion and can be a real bear to get out.
One method I've heard of being used but have never used myself (thankfully) is to use a Sawzall to cut through the toe shims and through the bolt. You may need to do it on both sides of the arm to get it out.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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Re: Lower Control Arm/Bushing Pin
Thanks. I thought of doing much worse - but that sounds good. I'm trying to save the bolt (and the bushings). I've got about a gallon of PB blaster on it, hoping to free it up in the morning but it's looking grim. I may have to bite the bullet and replace it all anyway.- Top
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Re: Lower Control Arm/Bushing Pin
Thanks. I thought of doing much worse - but that sounds good. I'm trying to save the bolt (and the bushings). I've got about a gallon of PB blaster on it, hoping to free it up in the morning but it's looking grim. I may have to bite the bullet and replace it all anyway.
I wouldn't be too concerned about saving the bolt. If the problem is corrosion, which is likely, I don't think you're going to want to re-use that bolt even if you were to get it out intact.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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Re: Lower Control Arm/Bushing Pin
True. I'm replacing the arm because it's bent. (Hit a speed limit sign - irony). Guess I'm getting too caught up in saving parts. Makes more sence to just get new with the new arm/spindle/and hub.
Thanks for the input.- Top
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