Changing Rear - C2

[Joel T.]

Hi Guys;

I'm looking to change the rear end ratio on my 1963. I've been reading the service manual and it appears that the front of the axle assembly can be removed without too much trouble. The biggest issue I can see is getting the rear spring down. I understand how to unload the spring and remove it from the housing but here is the rub.. If I have the car up on jack stands can I get the spring out without having to remove the exhaust system?? The manual indicates this is possible but the pictures show a car up on a two post lift with the mechanic working overhead.

Any advice on how to do this is greatly appreciated...

Thanks!!

Joel

[James J.]

Re: Changing Rear - C2

Hi Joel,
I've taken the spring out of my 63 twice. The first time was on jack stands, but I was changing the exhaust at the same time so the pipes were already out.
The second time I had it up on a 4 post lift and couldn't figure how to get it out without removing the exhaust. With some effort I removed one pipe and with a helper was able to remove the spring.
I could not figure how to get the spring out with both pipes installed.
Good luck, Jim

[Joel T.]

Re: Changing Rear - C2

Jim;

Thanks for the reply. I pretty much guessed I had to take the exhaust pipes out. The picture in the service manual is on what appears to be a two post lift... with the guy sliding the spring out over the exhaust pipe and down... kind of in a circular motion.... following the contour of the spring.

Well... I've had those pipes out more times than I would like to count, so once more won't hurt!

Regards,

Joel

[Michael A.]

Re: Changing Rear - C2

Joel,
I removed and installed the spring, diff, trailing arms, etc on my 66 while on jack stands and with the exhaust system in place. Not a lot of fun but it definitely is possible. As I recall (it was in 97) it was difficult to reinstall the assembled spring and I scratched up the fresh paint on the spring on the reinstall but it definitely is possible.

BTW - I'm learning the joys of exhaust system work this weekend. The exhaust system is out and the new system is in the garage ready for install. Now that I know what it takes to remove the system, namely time, banged knuckles and patience, I probably would have taken the exhaust out to get to the spring! The reinstall would have been a lot easier

Cheers,
Mike

[Joel T.]

Re: Changing Rear - C2

Mike...

I'm gonna give it a try with the exhaust in place... Since I am going to keep the rear of the housing in place, all I need to get at are the two bolts which sit between the housing rear and the spring... everything else I can get to. I'm guessing that I might get by with just dropping the spring a bit and perhaps not taking it out (it was rebuilt in 2007). My main concern is how far off the floor do I need to get the car so that the spring will fully unload... sounds like jack stands should do it.

I did the exhaust on my '63... many times unfortunately.. it can be a PITA to get it aligned. Last time around I had the extension pipes welded to the mufflers before re-install which made the job a bit easier. Without the weld it was really difficult to keep the extension pipe-to-muffler clamps from hitting the spare tire brackets...

Thanks for the help... I'll be off to Sears later on today to pick up jack stands... I usually stack 6X6 lumber three high and rest the car on that.. but for this job I will probably want more height.

Joel

[Michael A.]

Re: Changing Rear - C2

Joel
I definitely did mine with jack stands and it worked great, if you don't mind working on your back. Definitely it will give you enough room to unload the spring and it will be much safer than using blocks. Those scare me.

As I recall, the spring is the item that concerned me the most. After raising it on the jack stands (I'd suggest raising it on 4 or have some really good blocks in front to keep it from rolling) and removing the wheels, I used the hydraulic jack to compress one side of the spring and then secured it into position with a strong chain wrapped around it to secure it. I then slowly released the hydraulic jack and let the chain hold the spring in a compressed position. I then removed the cotter spring and nut from the end of the spring, easily done when there's no spring pressure on it! I then raised the spring with the hydraulic jack again to release the pressure on the chain, removed the chain and then slowly released the hydraulic jack to let the spring relax. Repeat the position on the other side and then your done.

Just take it slow and easy and make sure the chain is well secured when you are using it to hold the spring while removing the cotter pin and nut. It's not that hard.

Good luck to you and make sure there are no kids around when you try to replace a freshly painted spring. I recall the occassional colorful word during the process.

Cheers,

[Timothy B.]

Re: Changing Rear - C2

Joel,
You may want to take the exhaust rear hanger loose so the pipes will move a little, this may be enough to get the spring out. Are you taking the crossmember out with the rear? This makes the job easier except for breaking the crossmember loose from the frame but I think for this the exhaust will have to come out.