had my 65 painted spring 05 nas blue lacquer ,and it is starting to get small bubbles on the drivers side front fender mostly by the three vertacle grills just behind the tire , is this from brake fluid over the years soaking from the back side of fender, i noticed that when i stripped the paint from the car that area would always return to a wet look , i would wipe the area with thinner it would look good for a while but would always come back , what can i do to prevent this ,the painter has offered to fix this at no charge, any one have experiance with this problem.
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JR -
Re: C2 paint problems
Jim: I've had exactly the same problem with my 66. It had a bad master cylinder when I bought it and was apparently leaking brake fluid onto the inside of the driver's side fender. I had the whole fender striped and repainted in 2002. Despite attempts to clean and seal the area, some small bubbles have crept back into the paint, especially aft of the three vertical vents. Fortunately, they seemed to have "stablized" in terms of number and severity. I'm not sure there's much you can do about it. -
Re: C2 paint problems
Jim,
Unfortunately, once the composite has become contaminated, it is virtually impossible to decontaminate it.
If it is an original GM piece, then I'd try complete immersion for a sustained period in a very aggressive solvent like acetone, or lacquer thinner. This will eventually cause all of the contaminant to leach out through osmosis. This involves separating the bonding strip and removing the entire gill section. There's no easy way.
If it's a reproduction piece, then cut out the bad section and repair, or replace the entire gill panel.
JoeComment
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Re: C2 paint problems
Jim,
I had much the same problem with the bubbles on my hood and discovered that the oil was coming from my A/C compressor seal leaking. This was 4 years ago and my fix is still not showing any evidence of re-occurring.
I stripped the hood down to the fiberglass and could see the oil spot. I first cleaned the underside of the hood of all the surface oil, then placed a heat lamp about a foot above the oil spot on the top side. Let the fiberglass cook and you will see the oil come to the top and actually pool up. When the hood gets too hot to touch, momentarily remove the lamp and wipe the oil away with a rag saturated with lacquer thinner. Repeat these steps and you will eventually purge the fiberglass of all the oil. I had to repeat the steps 10 or so times. The heat lamp WILL BLISTER GOOD PAINT, so be careful.
The oil must be removed and if I were you I would strip the louver area to the body line and remove the oil and repaint. You won't regret it.
The summer sun and heat from southwest Louisiana doesn't create problems with the paint on my hood anymore.
Good luck,
WarrenComment
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Re: C2 paint problems
I agree with Warren. I have had good luck soaking bare fiberglass with thinner , dupont 3812 reducer or dupont lacqure & enamal cleaner. then heating with a uv lamp. ..works best if done from the inside. good hot 90+ sun is even better.BillComment
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