C3 radio preservation?

[Michael G.]

I have my original 71 clock newly rebuilt and want to know if it would be wise to leave it diconnected until needed for future judging. I often use my battery disconnect and thought that the erratic operation and resetting would only have it in need of servicing again. I do take measures to keep the interior free of humidity but wonder if the occasional operation is a better course for the mechanical units. Any advice would be appreciated.
And can someone tell me what time it is?
Mike

[Joe L.]

Re: C3 CLOCK preservation?

I have my original 71 clock newly rebuilt and want to know if it would be wise to leave it diconnected until needed for future judging. I often use my battery disconnect and thought that the erratic operation and resetting would only have it in need of servicing again. I do take measures to keep the interior free of humidity but wonder if the occasional operation is a better course for the mechanical units. Any advice would be appreciated.
And can someone tell me what time it is?
Mike

Mike-----


If you insist on using an original style 'tic-toc' movement, then I think leaving it disconnected is the best way to ensure that, subsequent to reconnection, it will work for judging. After all, judging is the ONLY time one of these movements makes sense.

[Jack H.]

Re: C3 CLOCK preservation?

The real stress/wear issue to an original electro-mechanical clock movement is DISUSE. When the clock stops ticking, lube on internal moving parts tends to settle/puddle. This can result in upside surfaces running 'dry' on the clock's restart as well as the puddled lube tending to solidify and create blobs/chunks to 'clog' things up.

The clocks were really expected to run a 100% duty cycle 24-hours/day which is why long periods of disuse during storage can shorten their lives. But, that's part of the game when you own a classic car and want to preserve it in its factory original state...

[Joe L.]

Re: C3 CLOCK preservation?

The real stress/wear issue to an original electro-mechanical clock movement is DISUSE. When the clock stops ticking, lube on internal moving parts tends to settle/puddle. This can result in upside surfaces running 'dry' on the clock's restart as well as the puddled lube tending to solidify and create blobs/chunks to 'clog' things up.

The clocks were really expected to run a 100% duty cycle 24-hours/day which is why long periods of disuse during storage can shorten their lives. But, that's part of the game when you own a classic car and want to preserve it in its factory original state...

Jack-----


They may have been designed for 100% duty cycle, 24 hour operation. However, I'm VERY confident that if he has the original movement rebuilt and installs it in the car, it won't last for a year.

[Michael G.]

Re: C3 clock preservation?

Thanks Joe & Jack,
I am beginning to get the impression that this particular area is worth the points loss and that the quarts conversion is probably the way to go when this thing quits again. I have read in past posts of the quirky start-up tricks that are required when the power is disconnected and I often use my battery disconnect. Just trying to be as correct as possible with my resoration. Thanks Guys.
Mike

[Kent K.]

Re: C3 CLOCK preservation?

Jack-----


They may have been designed for 100% duty cycle, 24 hour operation. However, I'm VERY confident that if he has the original movement rebuilt and installs it in the car, it won't last for a year.

If C3 clocks are similar to C2 clocks, take this longevity into consideration. When restoring my '67, probably sometime in 1993, I sent my clock to Roger at Corvette Instruments. He only cleaned and lubricated the orgiinal movement. It has run ever since only when the battery is connected. That's 14 to 15 years ...... !!!

[Patrick H.]

Re: C3 radio preservation?

I put a new clock from Instrument Services Inc of Roscoe, IL in my 72. That was installed in June 2003. I use my guillotine-style battery disconnect every time I get out of the car, and the clock continues to work perfectly and keeps excellent time. I see no reason to lose 25 points (operations) by using a quartz clock when a mechanical has the potential of lasting years. You spend just as much money on a new ACDelco battery or up to 3x as much on a repro battery, and you KNOW that thing is gonna die in 5 years or less.

http://clocksandgauges.com/gpage.html#4

Patrick

[Joe L.]

Re: C3 radio preservation?

I put a new clock from Instrument Services Inc of Roscoe, IL in my 72. That was installed in June 2003. I use my guillotine-style battery disconnect every time I get out of the car, and the clock continues to work perfectly and keeps excellent time. I see no reason to lose 25 points (operations) by using a quartz clock when a mechanical has the potential of lasting years. You spend just as much money on a new ACDelco battery or up to 3x as much on a repro battery, and you KNOW that thing is gonna die in 5 years or less.

http://clocksandgauges.com/gpage.html#4

Patrick

Patrick------


MANY years ago I had a long conversation at Bloomington with the then "head guy" at Instrument Services. I don't recall his name but I do recall that he had some sort of foreign accent (maybe German or some Scandinavian language). He seemed like he really knew his business. I told him I had had my 69 clock rebuilt twice by different folks in whom I had a lot of confidence and both times the clock lasted less than a year. I asked him if he could do better. He told me that he was surprised that they even lasted a year. He said it was pointless to try to rebuild a "tic-toc" clock movement and, although he sold them and rebuilt them, he did not recommend them.

On his display table he had reproductions of the 68-71 style clock with either a conventional or quartz movement. Both were visually perfect and both were the same price. I purchased the quartz version. However, I never installed it. I still have it here in my box of otherwise NOS instruments (I keep NOS instruments separate from the "main collection" storage; keep that in mind when you assume your duties as curator).

Anyway, instead , I had my original movement rebuilt two more times. I had it done these two times by a shop in the Oakland hills area that specialized in rebuilding old clocks, especially automotive. It was staffed by two old guys that DEFINITELY knew what they were doing. You could tell that by just talking with them and seeing their shop. It was a labor of love for these 2 guys. Both times I had it done, it lasted less than a year, just like the first two times with other rebuilders. Just like the guy with the foreign accent from Instrument Services in Roscoe, IL had told me.

The quartz clock is finally going in when I remove the center console to, as a "preventative measure", replace the heater core.

[Patrick H.]

Re: C3 radio preservation?

Patrick------


MANY years ago I had a long conversation at Bloomington with the then "head guy" at Instrument Services. I don't recall his name but I do recall that he had some sort of foreign accent (maybe German or some Scandinavian language). He seemed like he really knew his business. I told him I had had my 69 clock rebuilt twice by different folks in whom I had a lot of confidence and both times the clock lasted less than a year. I asked him if he could do better. He told me that he was surprised that they even lasted a year. He said it was pointless to try to rebuild a "tic-toc" clock movement and, although he sold them and rebuilt them, he did not recommend them.

On his display table he had reproductions of the 68-71 style clock with either a conventional or quartz movement. Both were visually perfect and both were the same price. I purchased the quartz version. However, I never installed it. I still have it here in my box of otherwise NOS instruments (I keep NOS instruments separate from the "main collection" storage; keep that in mind when you assume your duties as curator).

Anyway, instead , I had my original movement rebuilt two more times. I had it done these two times by a shop in the Oakland hills area that specialized in rebuilding old clocks, especially automotive. It was staffed by two old guys that DEFINITELY knew what they were doing. You could tell that by just talking with them and seeing their shop. It was a labor of love for these 2 guys. Both times I had it done, it lasted less than a year, just like the first two times with other rebuilders. Just like the guy with the foreign accent from Instrument Services in Roscoe, IL had told me.

The quartz clock is finally going in when I remove the center console to, as a "preventative measure", replace the heater core.

Joe,

4 times?
Interesting. I actually rebuilt my original before heading off to Seven Springs to have the car judged. It worked fine for weeks, but was dead by the time I arrived at the meet. That's when I went ahead and purchased a new clock, mechanical, since I had more judging ahead of me. I'll have to see how long it lasts.

I'll check your closet.

Patrick

[Alan D.]

Re: C3 radio preservation?

I have a 1977 that has had the clock rebuilt 2 times. The first time lasted just under 1 year. It was covered for repair under the warrantee. However, it was explained to me that the coil for the rewind mechanism was replaced (for a charge) due to burn out. The explaination is as follows: the coil is subject to burn out due to a low voltage condition. Even though the car will start on the low voltage the coil is subect to burn out.
The recommendation by the clock repair company is to disconnect the battery to eleviate this low voltage condition over a prolonged time. I have followed this procedure and to date the clock has always restarted and kept time accurately. Just my 2 cents.

[Donald A.]

Re: C3 radio preservation?

I have a 1962, and I sent my original clock to be rebuilt. When it came back I installed it but put a small switch in line with the wire. Now when I go to a show I reach behind the console, throw the switch and it works fine. No need to disconnect the battery all the time.

[Alan D.]

Re: C3 radio preservation?

Donald,
The problem with a switch to control the clock on a 1977 is that all the console instrument power is routed through a printed circuit board. One would have to alter the circuit board to do this and the board is a piece of mylar with the printed circuit on it. It is too expensive to alter and also very fragile.

Thanks,
Al