enclosed trailer tips...

[John H.]

Re: enclosed trailer tips...

I own a 26' v-nose Pace enclosed. I didn't want to spend the extra cash
for a Featherlite. 5000lb axels a must.
Get a 8x24, not a 20. Order a second vent if ordering new. This will give cross ventilation, Can use it as a storage garage if insulated.
I put a timer-small fan on inside of one vent. Can purchase vent covers
for about $25 each from camper world.
I spent over two years looking for recent used one with many internet choices, however local dealer would have been about the same.
Mark down off retail on a new one is about 15-18%.
I came within a week of finally ordering a new one when I noticed, finally
a for-sale trailer locally in one of the car clubs newsletters.
It was just what I wanted however it was fully loaded. After a phone call
and a trip the next day to see it, it was a done deal.
His selling price was to good to pass up. I really like the electric tongue.
I have owned car & horse trailers for 25 years. I pull with a Chevy 2500
crew cab, 6.0 gas, 2006. Equalizer hitch. 9 miles thg.
Can call me evenings 1-866-871-0330 any questions,
Oh by the way. Pace can sell a raised floor, lower excape side door
model, cost might be up there though. Side door would be nice, I don't
like the boards program. My C-3 hits about 3/4" at bottom. I use a small
jack, three pumps and the door clears for extra exit room. I havn't
decided on a alternative lifting plan.
When you get a flat, they sell a super slick, hard fiberglass roll on ramp
that you drive over to raise the dual axel onto the non-flat tire.
I have used it, trust me it works wonders. Fast and stable.
Most RV and horse magazines advertize this ramp. It's not expensive.
I would like to hear from those as to how they attach their straps.
Also are crisss-crosed or straight. I know there are holes in the frame
that could be hooked onto. I have never used that area.
What you say boys.....?

[Art A.]

Re: enclosed trailer tips...

"I would like to hear from those as to how they attach their straps.
Also are crisss-crosed or straight. I know there are holes in the frame that could be hooked onto. "

Since you asked here is my 2 cents worth.

Do not use the lower A frame to tie the car down. Use the GM DESIGNED reinforced oblong holes in the frame-----both front and rear.


The following items can be purchased from: http://www.truckntow.com/


1. Outfit your trailer with E track. Installed just outboard of the cars tire tracks----don't scrimp on the e-track hold down screws.
2. Buy 4 of these: FT-72ETRJ------Note: These come with three types of hooks attached to the end ring and the GM frame tie downs only require the "R" hook so I used a liquid wrench to remove the two unnecessary ones.

Now for the important part----where to put the "R" hook?

Front: On the outer surface of the frame, just above the sway bar attachment, you will see an oblong hole about 1 inch wide and about 1 1/2 inches long. This hole is slightly slanted with the top towards the rear of the vehicle and if you feel inside the hole with your pinkie you will find that it has a metal reinforcement plate welded inside it.
The "R" hook goes into this hole with the T, for a lack of a better description, position first and then turn it 90 degrees and the 1 inch flat square portion the R hook will be against the frame itself-----it will then slide down towards the lower part of the hole and basically be locked into position. The straps get attached to the outside e- tracks on a forward angle.

Rear: The rear cross member, just in front of the rear tires, has two oblong holes on the bottom of crossmember on each side of center ---same as described for the front, BUT one of them has a lip, turning downwards----thats the one to use. Again put your pinkie in it and feel the welded inner reinforcement plate. The R hook inserts the same as the front. These straps get crisscrossed under the car and get attached to the opposite side e-tracks.

After inserting the R hooks ratchet the lever until each is tight putting some tension on the suspension.

I then release the hand brake and put the tranney in natural.

I have towed my 65 around the country in this manner with no ill effects.


Afterthought: I first figured out the approximate center of my 65 and positioned it in the trailer---centered over the axles, I have two, and then put some of those yellow trailer chalks up against the front tires and then screwed them to the trailer floor so that the car would be positioned in the same place each time.

[Kevin M.]

Re: enclosed trailer tips...

Wow that is the most comprehensive explanation to the best way to tie down a Mid-Year. Art this works for 63 to 67 right? In the morning I'll go out and take pictures of the areas you mentioned. Is this where they tied them down for shipping?

Kevin

[Terry M.]

Re: enclosed trailer tips...

C3 tie down points are almost the same, however, the fronts are in the front cross member, just inboard of the lower control arm shaft. On C3s the oblong holes have the edges turned down for increased strength.

Rear tie down points are the same location as in Art's description, but the edges are turned down, so one can feel them without even laying down.

C4, C5 and C6 have tie down slots as well, but their locations are different.

Fronts on C4 are on tabs hanging down just behind the front wheels. I'm not sure where the C4 rears are.

C5 & C6 use the same slots in the chassis that the lifting pucks go into.

I am told that the current transporter of Corvettes, Allied, now uses wheel tie-downs instead of the R-hooks -- but I have not personally verified that.

[Art A.]

Re: enclosed trailer tips...

Wow that is the most comprehensive explanation to the best way to tie down a Mid-Year. Art this works for 63 to 67 right? In the morning I'll go out and take pictures of the areas you mentioned. Is this where they tied them down for shipping?

Kevin

Yes Kevin it is where GM has their transporters tie the 63-67 Corvettes down. In fact almost all vehicles have a DESIGNED tie down location.

One caution for the 63-67, that I have observed, is the incorrect usage of the keyhole hole in the outside of the frame about mid vehicle for tie downs. This keyhole hole was used to put a chain in to move the vehicle down the assembly line during assembly.

P.S., I think Terry is right about the current models using tire straps.

[Terry M.]

Re: enclosed trailer tips...

But the reinforced slots are still there on the current Corvettes for us "old-school" guys, Art. They are used to support the vehicle on the assembly line while it is in the air -- before wheels down -- and of course they are used for the pucks to protect the rocker panels during lifting for service. Properly lifting the current Corvettes is a big issue, but that is another story.

Using the aluminum suspension components as tie-down points can seriously damage the C4 and newer Corvettes. Owners of these Corvettes need to be especially vigilant to prevent that. Using the factory designed and engineered tie down points is the first step toward preserving "modern" Corvettes.

We are singing the same song, Art. I'm just dragging it forward to today's car.

[James W.]

Re: enclosed trailer tips...

Yes Kevin it is where GM has their transporters tie the 63-67 Corvettes down. In fact almost all vehicles have a DESIGNED tie down location.

One caution for the 63-67, that I have observed, is the incorrect usage of the keyhole hole in the outside of the frame about mid vehicle for tie downs. This keyhole hole was used to put a chain in to move the vehicle down the assembly line during assembly.

P.S., I think Terry is right about the current models using tire straps.

Art,

I haven't heard anyone that has replied to this discussion mention when trailering a 4-speed car whether they leave the car in gear or in neutral???

What's your preferred method?

I have an open trailer that we custom built back in the early 1980's to haul both C1 and C2 Corvettes. It uses trailer house axles in tandem with the leaf spring suspension, electric brakes, winch and a tire strap die-down method using Simpson Racing Equipment ratchet straps that go over the top of each tire. We've hauled Corvettes on it for years and never had a problem with the tire strap die-down method. The car doesn't move around at all even after several hundred miles of towing.


Regards,

James West

[Dan A.]

Re: enclosed trailer tips...

C3 tie down points are almost the same, however, the fronts are in the front cross member, just inboard of the lower control arm shaft. On C3s the oblong holes have the edges turned down for increased strength.

Rear tie down points are the same location as in Art's description, but the edges are turned down, so one can feel them without even laying down.

C4, C5 and C6 have tie down slots as well, but their locations are different.

Fronts on C4 are on tabs hanging down just behind the front wheels. I'm not sure where the C4 rears are.

C5 & C6 use the same slots in the chassis that the lifting pucks go into.

I am told that the current transporter of Corvettes, Allied, now uses wheel tie-downs instead of the R-hooks -- but I have not personally verified that.

I know where the tie down locations are on 1963 thru '82s are. Where are they on the solid axle cars?

Dan

[John D.]

Re: enclosed trailer tips...

Greg, I have been pulling trailers since 1965. Tried tons of vehicles over the years and the best so far is a 2500 GMC Yukon XL. 6.0 with 4:10 rear. Pulls like a tractor up and down the steep hills of VA and WVA and runs with the big trucks. One fatal mistake I often see on the interstates is for some reason guys pulling big enclosed trailers have to blast by you going 80 plus MPH. I mean where are they going??? I have seen my share of completely totally rigs because of speed and low tire pressure. #1 rule on trailers is make sure you have enough air in the tires. Low air pressure causes more blow outs. Also trailer tires age fast so keep an eye on them. They really develop cracks from sitting around so even though you have a lot of tread the tire may be shot. I think 6 years is more than enough for a set of trailer tires. Make sure your electric brakes work and most important make sure you use the sway bars. Those bars are wonderful. In PA we have once a year trailer inspections and the first thing they check is the break-away switch. If it doesn't work you fail on the spot. It's hard to get a trailer that will permit you to add a side door to get out of the car without the Corvette door hitting the inside trailer fender. Watch this issue big time. Good luck, John D.

[Terry M.]

Re: enclosed trailer tips...

You raise a good point Dave, and since I have no direct experience with a C4 I can't offer personal experience. I had noticed the C4 front tie-down points when we had them on the lift for the advanced judging schools. At one time I was going to do a story about the various tie down point locations, so I was taking photographs with that project in mind.

My conversations with Corvette engineers about the suspension components of C4 and newer Corvettes is what prompted my post. I began to investigate the issue prior to my purchase of a C6. Their cautions about the directional strength of these parts were serious.

Personally I would consider modifying the trailer tie down points or using tire web type tie downs before I would use the aluminum suspension parts, but I can't argue with your successful experience.

Where are the rear factory tie down points on a C4?

Dan, I never did find any factory tie down points on C1 frames, but I didn't see too many bare frames to look at. Suggestions are certainly welcome.

[Terry M.]

Re: enclosed trailer tips...

No need for a picture, I can imagine where they are from your description. I'll look next time I have a C4 on the lift at a meet.
Thanks Dave.

[Greg L.]

Re: enclosed trailer tips...

Thanks John. What's your thoughts on using a 1500 or 1500HD for towing a 7000lb trailer?

To be perfectly honest IF I buy a trailer it will only get used maybe once or at the most twice a year and the rest of the time it will be for storage. With such limited use I really can't see myself buying a 3/4 ton with the gas prices the way they are so I'd like to stick with a 1/2 ton of some sort. I also don't mind taking a little longer to get there so if I can easily do 60-65 on level ground I'll be happy.

[Patrick H.]

Re: enclosed trailer tips...

Thanks John. What's your thoughts on using a 1500 or 1500HD for towing a 7000lb trailer?

To be perfectly honest IF I buy a trailer it will only get used maybe once or at the most twice a year and the rest of the time it will be for storage. With such limited use I really can't see myself buying a 3/4 ton with the gas prices the way they are so I'd like to stick with a 1/2 ton of some sort. I also don't mind taking a little longer to get there so if I can easily do 60-65 on level ground I'll be happy.

Greg,

I had the same thoughts about a 2500 since it does not look appealing as a daily driver. If they made a 1500 diesel I'd probably own one. But, they don't. With my 2003 GMC, the trailer weighed about 3200, the car about 3200, and I had no problems from Michigan to Boston and back. I just had to mentally realize that I was pulling a trailer and it was going to take me longer than without one.

The info about the 6.0L "max trailering package" in a 1500 seems to be the best compromise to me if you want to have the ability built into the rig at all times. It's the 2500 engine without the 2500 suspension. Else you just have to go slower if you stick with the 5.3L.

I was more than happy with my 300hp 5.3L, especially compared with the 200hp 350 in my previous 1994 pickup. That one would not done very well.

Patrick

[Clem Z.]

Re: enclosed trailer tips...

i got a 20 foot pace. i haul a c1, c3, and a c4 in it. all fit fine and you have about 4 feet extra in the front for chairs and other stuff. make sure you get the escape door on the left side so you dont have to go in and out the car window. i got the upgraded axles and brakes on all 4 wheels. get the equalizer hitch and sway bar. well worth the money. i pull the trailer with my avalanche and it pulls fine. i usually go 75 to 80mph on the interstate with no problem. its nice to have a cleen car when you get to the show. i find the trailer works best with the car all the way to the back. with a corvette the weight is pretty equal over the wheels that way. the cars are about 4 inches from the back door. you dont have alot of excess tonge weight that way so it wont change the handleing of the truck.

10% of the total weight of the trailer and contents should be on the tongue to prevent it from trying to lift the tow vehicle going over bumps. very scary sensation. JMHO

[Art B.]

Re: enclosed trailer tips...

Terry - I was checking out my 76 this evening and am having trouble locating the oblong holes you describe. In the bottom of my front crossmember are a center hole approx 5/8" with a rolled lip. Midway between this center hole and the lower A-arm shaft are two 1/2" holes without any rolled edge. It appears none of these three are reinforced. In the rear crossmember I do find the oblong holes you describe with rolled edges but no reinforcement. Can you tell me if these are the holes you are describing? Thanks.