Got a on and off problem which seems to be in the electric system. With headlights on, heater fan on high & radio on, (with "full throttle")engine starts to "sputter". By turning off the radio or fan the problem seems to vanish.This is a 327/300 factory A/C 4 speed coupe.The following items are NEW: 61 amp. alternator.(John Pirkle / Masters City Classic Car Parts),spark plug wires (dated), Breakerless "SE" Electronoic Ignition and engine main wire harness all from Lectric Limited,Inc.,Coil,spark plugs,Dist.cap and Holley Carb(3367) N.O.S......Any Ideas????
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Re: 1966 Small Block Electrical problems
Sounds like a voltage drop issue. I'd run a test wire inside the car and measure operating voltage under full throttle with a Fluke or other similar quality meter (a meter with range memory will let you keep your eyes on the road rather than the meter during your test drive). Measure directly from the alternator output and then from the line side of the coil resistor. They both ought to stay north of 14 VDC under load. If the alt. output is low under load, there's your problem. If the alternator output is good, but the line side of the coil resistor is meaningfully lower than the alt. output, then you have a loose connection to find. Good luck. -
Re: 1966 Small Block Electrical problems
Sounds like a voltage drop issue. I'd run a test wire inside the car and measure operating voltage under full throttle with a Fluke or other similar quality meter (a meter with range memory will let you keep your eyes on the road rather than the meter during your test drive). Measure directly from the alternator output and then from the line side of the coil resistor. They both ought to stay north of 14 VDC under load. If the alt. output is low under load, there's your problem. If the alternator output is good, but the line side of the coil resistor is meaningfully lower than the alt. output, then you have a loose connection to find. Good luck.Comment
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Re: 1966 Small Block Electrical problems
You either have a weak battery or a bad charging system. The alternator can be checked at most any auto supply and the battery can be checked with a voltmeter.
You could also have a bad harness connection at the junction block. Repro harness's are prone to terminal pushout.Comment
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Re: 1966 Small Block Electrical problems
You either have a weak battery or a bad charging system. The alternator can be checked at most any auto supply and the battery can be checked with a voltmeter.
You could also have a bad harness connection at the junction block. Repro harness's are prone to terminal pushout.Comment
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Re: 1966 Small Block Electrical problems
As I recall, the problem was intermittent before, I found that the old harness connector at the firewall had a broken clip which there is only one fix & thats replacing the harness... which I did. That seemed to fix the problem until now. Now wondering if the voltage regulator is bad. Now that I think of it, I did have another problem @ the fuse block with the clock>>at low rpm's the clock would stop, rev up the engine & the clock would start up again......checked the fusebox & it seems that the "clips" that hold the fuse were corroded. Question: has anyone ever replaced the fusebox assembly ? and how difficult is it to replace??.....just a though.....not a sermenComment
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Re: 1966 Small Block Electrical problems
As I recall, the problem was intermittent before, I found that the old harness connector at the firewall had a broken clip which there is only one fix & thats replacing the harness... which I did. That seemed to fix the problem until now. Now wondering if the voltage regulator is bad. Now that I think of it, I did have another problem @ the fuse block with the clock>>at low rpm's the clock would stop, rev up the engine & the clock would start up again......checked the fusebox & it seems that the "clips" that hold the fuse were corroded. Question: has anyone ever replaced the fusebox assembly ? and how difficult is it to replace??.....just a though.....not a sermenComment
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Re: 1966 Small Block Electrical problems
Replacing the fuse block can be pretty tricky! That's why M&H has a policy of NO RETURN on the reproduction fuse block assy's they sell. The wires that connect to the fuse box are crimped and you need a special tool to properly work within the confines of the back of the fuse box.
M&H discovered fuse blocks being returned for credit that were 'butchered' by novice end users who'd attempted to save money by re-using their existing harness and trying to splice in a replacement fuse box without proper tools + installation skills...Comment
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Re: 1966 Small Block Electrical problems
Replacing the fuse block can be pretty tricky! That's why M&H has a policy of NO RETURN on the reproduction fuse block assy's they sell. The wires that connect to the fuse box are crimped and you need a special tool to properly work within the confines of the back of the fuse box.
M&H discovered fuse blocks being returned for credit that were 'butchered' by novice end users who'd attempted to save money by re-using their existing harness and trying to splice in a replacement fuse box without proper tools + installation skills...Comment
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