I parked the car in the garage with no issues last fall. In April it started right up but brakes (all 4 tires)were dragging a lot when i backed it out of the garage. On the lift, I can turn the tires by hand with difficulty in neutral. This car has an automatic transmission. All 4 are wheels are the same. Brake light is non. It is not the mechanical parking brake. ABS and ASR lights are NOT on. Pulling fuses changes nothing except the lights for ASR and ABS go on. Brake pedal is too hard and high. If I pump and push on it , the booster does appear to feel correct as it will mush down a little when I start the car. Good vacuum at the booster valve. Booster valve tests ok. Disconnected the master cylinder from the booster without disturbing the lines. Brakes were still dragging the same. Disconnected brake pedal rod, no difference. Brake micro switch appears to be seated and adjusted properly. Electric Bosch switches on the Abs module behind the drivers seat check out ok. Can't bleed the ABS module, the brake pedal won't move. The OBS1 car system has no codes. I don't own a remote code reader. I have both service manuals ( two 2 inch thick books with the codes). Even if I knew the code and it happens to be the ABS I really hesitate to take it apart.
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Crack the bleeders on the calipers or the lines at the master. Dose fluid squirt out and release the wheels?
Master likely hung up. Any leaks at the wheels?
If cracking the bleeders does not release the calipers Id say the caliper pistons are seized. Though all 4 at the same time would be odd but plausible if the fluid is so bad it solidified or absorbed so much water it cause major oxidation throughout the system.
Whats the fluid in the master look like?
When is the last time the fluid and flex lines were replaced?
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Dennis-----
I had a similar problem with my original owner 1992 except that all 4 brakes would actually lock-up upon brake application. I figured the problem must be with either the master cylinder, the brake booster or the ABS control valve. I got some advice on this DB from Dave Perry who had a similar problem and resolved it by replacing the master cylinder. So, I replaced my master cylinder. Since I was in there anyway, I also replaced the brake booster inasmuch as although the car only has 45,000 miles, the booster is still 34 years old. Although I really believe the master cylinder was the root of the problem, replacing the master cylinder and booster completely resolved my brake problem.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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The car has 125,000 on it. I put 25,000 on it in the 10 years I have had it. Replaced the back brake pads only. So no, I never changed anything else that had to do with brakes. Did the last 2 owners replace anything? Who knows. Although anything can happen (ie. plausable). I guess living in Colorado and never seeing anything like that in my 69, 65 drum brake cars or my 66 Corvette ( although leaking has happened in the past), I had a mental block on it being that simple. Thats good advice and I am going to run with it. I will drain the fuid, replace the master cylinder, booster and valve while I am in there. It may take a month to get it done but I will come back to this with a report. THANKS Guys.
Dennis Dalton Newsletter Editor, Rocky Mountain ChapterComment
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