1968 327/350, fuel or electrical issue - NCRS Discussion Boards

1968 327/350, fuel or electrical issue

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  • Gary J.
    Very Frequent User
    • April 3, 2008
    • 164

    #16
    Update:
    spent time under the car, examined starter wires and fuse links, nothing out of order. Rand car in driveway bringing up to operating temperature. Started hot many times, let it heat sink then restarted many times again. Cant recreate situation, will have to take a chance and take it for a drive this weekend with my fluke meter to see what the meter tells me if it dies or fails to start hot.
    Gary
    New England Chapter NCRS

    Comment

    • Richard M.
      Super Moderator
      • August 31, 1988
      • 11355

      #17
      Gary,

      If it fails, I'd still check for fuel with air cleaner cover off and a pull on the rod to check for accel pump flow. If good....

      You may want to also take a spark tester or inductive timing light, to check for spark at the coil wire.

      If no spark if/when it shuts down, test for apx 12v at the heavy guage Pink wire at the TI Harness plug(Ign switch power).

      If good, check for apx 2.4 volts at Coil+ with key to Run.

      Check AMP 3 prong plug for looseness, the Ground lug at AMP attach bolt, and associated ground wire on core support.

      Also Distributor 2 terminal plug(grn/wht wires) into harness for good connections.
      Key Off, unplug it, test for 500-700 ohms at dist end of plug(this is dist Pickup Coil). Wiggle wires as they go up and under distributor when ohms testing.

      There are other items to check later. This also assumes your alternator is good with apx 14v charge. Bat 12.6v+ quiescent. All good Bat connections, particularly Ground cable to frame.

      Rich
      P.S. If you get stuck on the road feel free to call me. I'm going to be working boats this weekend, off the lake and noise filled, so if no answer leave a msg and I'll try to get back asap. Look it up in my profile. Ends with ....89.

      Comment

      • Gary J.
        Very Frequent User
        • April 3, 2008
        • 164

        #18
        Rich
        great information, i printed your suggestions and will take the info with me and check some of it b4 going in my drive Saturday. Not being an engineer, do you know, can i force text a hot condition on a coil? What i mean is can i put the coil in an oven (when wife isn't home)to 300 degrees temperature and take ohms readings to try to recreate the situation? Would this be a valid test or am i off base?
        thanks again
        Gary
        New England Chapter NCRS

        Comment

        • Richard M.
          Super Moderator
          • August 31, 1988
          • 11355

          #19
          Originally posted by Gary John (48859)
          Rich
          great information, i printed your suggestions and will take the info with me and check some of it b4 going in my drive Saturday. Not being an engineer, do you know, can i force text a hot condition on a coil? What i mean is can i put the coil in an oven (when wife isn't home)to 300 degrees temperature and take ohms readings to try to recreate the situation? Would this be a valid test or am i off base?
          thanks again
          Gary
          Gary, I've used a heat gun and IR Gun(to track temp rise) on the coil in the engine bay. This may show a failure but it has consequences. You could damage a good coil. I wouldn't heat it more than 250-300 degrees.

          Take that Napa coil for a ride too.

          Rich

          Comment

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