Correct 67 BB intake manifold gaskets and seals. Who sells them?

[Brian E.]

Regarding gaskets and seals for the intake manifold on a 67 big block, the current judging guide (page 118) reads "Big block engines use a small rounded tab with a small raised GM ID which may only be visible at the rear." In 2025 can I still find a set of gaskets and seals with this "correct" appearance? If yes, where? Thanks in advance.
Yes, I know the image below is for a small block.

PXL_20250928_213859065.jpg
PXL_20250928_213922153.jpg

[Joe L.]

Regarding gaskets and seals for the intake manifold on a 67 big block, the current judging guide (page 118) reads "Big block engines use a small rounded tab with a small raised GM ID which may only be visible at the rear." In 2025 can I still find a set of gaskets and seals with this "correct" appearance? If yes, where? Thanks in advance.
Yes, I know the image below is for a small block.

PXL_20250928_213859065.jpg
PXL_20250928_213922153.jpg

Brian------


The only way I know to get 100% original configuration is to find an NOS set.

[Brian E.]

Brian------The only way I know to get 100% original configuration is to find an NOS set.

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I understand now. This explains why I couldn't find them anywhere in the usual places. Thanks.

[Joseph S.]

Brian,

Although there is a small GM logo on the small round protrusion on BB end seals. They are both fully covered by the intake manifold and they can't be seen. I just installed the intake on my 396 engine last night and tried to, at the least, get the rear to show. No chance of that happening. The front arced area is inside the lifter valley so that wasn't even a possibility.

[Brian E.]

Brian, although there is a small GM logo on the small round protrusion on BB end seals. They are both fully covered by the intake manifold and they can't be seen. I just installed the intake on my 396 engine last night and tried to, at the least, get the rear to show. No chance of that happening. The front arced area is inside the lifter valley so that wasn't even a possibility.

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For the past couple of days I've been on the fence about purchasing a modern-day felpro set of gaskets ($20) vs a set of OEM/factory correct gaskets (I've been quoted prices of $200+) with the GM logo on the rounded tab. Yesterday I ponied up the $$$ and bought a set of OEM/factory correct gaskets with the GM logo on the rounded tab only to now learn the rounded tab won't be visible!?!? That's just my luck, and is disheartening to say the least. haha.

What am I supposed to do on the judging field to prove the OEM/factory correct gaskets are indeed installed? Maybe I could get one of those flexible cameras they use in colonoscopies to snake back there to show the judge that it really is there??? Is it possible that there is just enough of a difference between your engine and my engine (427/390 horse) that makes the tab less visible with yours and more visible with mine? But seriously, I don't know how to prove the OEM/factory correct gaskets are indeed installed if they can't be seen.

[Patrick H.]

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But seriously, I don't know how to prove the OEM/factory correct gaskets are indeed installed if they can't be seen.

The judges may use their phone camera, or often reach back and touch the area where the tab should be.
If they feel it, you're good.
Eyesight is not the only one of the 5 senses used on the judging field.

[Joseph S.]

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For the past couple of days I've been on the fence about purchasing a modern-day felpro set of gaskets ($20) vs a set of OEM/factory correct gaskets (I've been quoted prices of $200+) with the GM logo on the rounded tab. Yesterday I ponied up the $$$ and bought a set of OEM/factory correct gaskets with the GM logo on the rounded tab only to now learn the rounded tab won't be visible!?!? That's just my luck, and is disheartening to say the least. haha.

What am I supposed to do on the judging field to prove the OEM/factory correct gaskets are indeed installed? Maybe I could get one of those flexible cameras they use in colonoscopies to snake back there to show the judge that it really is there??? Is it possible that there is just enough of a difference between your engine and my engine (427/390 horse) that makes the tab less visible with yours and more visible with mine? But seriously, I don't know how to prove the OEM/factory correct gaskets are indeed installed if they can't be seen.

Brian,

There is no way to see that tab. No tool, no scope, no microscope, mirror, camera, nothing will work. As I stated earlier, the front tab is inside the lifter valley and the rear tab is completely covered by the shape of the intake manifold. I do use the GM gaskets because the shape of the side gaskets is different from most aftermarket vendors. (Although, I think the Victor, or Mahle gaskets may have the proper shape.) Nothing from Felpro will appear correct.

I can't comment on what you spent for an NOS set. I typically have paid $55 to $75 for those in the past. Perhaps the price has increased, but I'm sure they are out there for a bargain. There are many left in stock in the country. It's not a scarce item.

Regards,

[Brian E.]

The current thinking is that we (me and anyone that knows what they're doing and can stand beside me throughout the process) are going to remove the intake manifold and replace the intake manifold gaskets as well as the valve cover gaskets. I'm trying to stop the oil drips that show up on the floor. I'm going to replace the 2 gaskets on top of the engine and then if that doesn't fix the drips me and my mechanical buddy will then go to the bottom of the engine and replace the oil pan gasket. I'm no mechanic but I think I am also getting some drips from the rear main seal. I don't think I have the mental fortitude to pull the transmission (yet) and may simply choose to live with the drips I get from the rear main seal provided all the other oil leak sources were fixed. I know fixing oil drips is a lofty goal, and I may be unfairly applying 2025 standards to a 1967 vehicle but I'm certainly going to try those 3 gaskets to see if the oil drips improve: valve cover, intake manifold, and oil pan gasket. The rear main seal will have to wait for when I'm mentally ready for the task. Mission creep will probably have the transmission properly gone through like I did when I pulled the differential.

[Joe L.]

Brian——-

It is not necessary to remove the transmission in order to replace the rear main seal assuming the engine is an original Mark IV big block. You will find the procedure in the Chevrolet Service Manual.

[Patrick H.]

remove the intake manifold and replace the intake manifold gaskets as well as the valve cover gaskets. I'm trying to stop the oil drips that show up on the floor.

In my experience, valve cover gaskets leak >>>>> intake gaskets.
Also, given the hassle of valve cover vs intake, I'd replace the valve cover gaskets, clean everything as much as possible to watch for the next leak, and see what happens.
YMMV.

[Joe L.]

In my experience, valve cover gaskets leak >>>>> intake gaskets.
Also, given the hassle of valve cover vs intake, I'd replace the valve cover gaskets, clean everything as much as possible to watch for the next leak, and see what happens.
YMMV.

Patrick-----

One of the best ways to ensure an intake manifold-related oil leak is to use the rubber end seals, GM trademarked or not. The best way to prevent this type of leak is to use Permatex Ultra Black in place of the gaskets. GM started doing this for PRODUCTION engines more than 30 years ago.

[Brian E.]

Brian——-

It is not necessary to remove the transmission in order to replace the rear main seal assuming the engine is an original Mark IV big block. You will find the procedure in the Chevrolet Service Manual.

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Great news! Thanks.

[Brian E.]

One of the best ways to ensure an intake manifold-related oil leak is to use the rubber end seals, GM trademarked or not. The best way to prevent this type of leak is to use Permatex Ultra Black in place of the gaskets. GM started doing this for PRODUCTION engines more than 30 years ago.

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I've never been one to put flight judging points above proper operation, but because I don't have much judging experience (and therefore don't know how many points to deduct for non-typical items) let me just ask the pertinent question... If I did indeed choose to use Permatex Ultra Black instead of the rubber end seals how big of a point loss hit would the car receive? Here is a picture of my first and most recent judging sheet as it pertains to the intake manifold, bolts, gaskets, and seals.
judging sheet.png
At the time of this judging event my car had (and still has) the rubber end seals without the GM tabs.

[Joseph S.]

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I've never been one to put flight judging points above proper operation, but because I don't have much judging experience (and therefore don't know how many points to deduct for non-typical items) let me just ask the pertinent question... If I did indeed choose to use Permatex Ultra Black instead of the rubber end seals how big of a point loss hit would the car receive? Here is a picture of my first and most recent judging sheet as it pertains to the intake manifold, bolts, gaskets, and seals.
judging sheet.png
At the time of this judging event my car had (and still has) the rubber end seals without the GM tabs.

Brian, I don't know how else to explain this to you and sorry for making it sound that I am frustrated, as I am not. On a BB, 396, 427, 454 engine, it is IMPOSSIBLE to see the GM tabs. You may possibly see a small portion in the rear of the intake, but I have never been able to read the GM insignia. The rear of most intakes cover the tab. I bet, if you were to remove your intake, you would find the round tabs. Shame on those judges for taking a deduction on that line. If you like, I could take a photo of an engine in my garage tonight.

Regards, Joe

[Brian E.]

Shame on those judges for taking a deduction on that line.

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No no no, I'm not upset at the judges for the point loss. Not upset at all and certainly don't want anyone to think I was or am upset about the deduction because if the proper gasket was not detected or seen then I understand and fully accept the deduction. The reason for my question and the picture above is:

1. because I am sitting on the fence about using the rubber end seals or using Permatex Ultra Black
2. to show how many points are assigned to the intake manifold, bolts, gaskets, and seals in order for someone who is more familiar with deducting points to answer the following question: If I did indeed choose to use Permatex Ultra Black instead of the rubber end seals how big of a point loss hit would the car receive?