1963 Exhaust System Install

[Frederick H.]

Trying once again to get this car ready for the Frisco Regional next month. Just received the carbon steel system from Corvette Central (for 340HP) and want to know if there are any suggestions/cautions on how to install as this is my first attempt for installing an exhaust system. (No lift - only jack stands).

Thanks in Advance,
Fred

[David M.]

Test fit the system.
Lay it out on a blanket to make sure you have everything and it goes together.
Adjust, de-burr, file & trim as needed.
You do not want to fight it on your back.

• Install hangers.
• Start with the head pipes working back to the mufflers. Bungees make for a good second set of hands.
• Apply a liberal amount of blue painters tape to the tail pipe chrome body bezels to avoid damage. Same for the tips if they are integral.
• Put the whole system in loose. Loose enough to allow tweaking adjusting as you go.
• Stand in back of the car to look at the tail pipe symmetry. Also stand wayyy back and view the car from the sides. Look to make sure the pipes fit up nice and tight and you don't see anything hanging.
• Put the car down on the suspension to make sure it fits around the rear spring & drive train.
• Tighten the clamps a little at a time checking alignment as you go. Don't over tighten the clamps or the manifold studs. I like the U clamps to point toward the side or up. I don't like them pointing down.
• Apply small dabs of copper anti-seize on everything... the slip joints and all fasteners. Use it sparingly and wipe off excess before and after a few heat cycles. It will stain if not wiped off a couple times. You will thank me the next time you need to take it apart.

*If 100% originality isn't a concern I highly recommend ditching the U clamps in favor of band clamps...I know they are stainless but they install cleanly and allow hassle free removal. The U clamps bite into the pipe making removal a pain though the anti-seize helps.

[Frederick H.]

Great info - thanks David.

Fred

[Patrick H.]

I find that you have to use exhaust pipe sealant (as the factory did) at the junction at the transmission, as they always seem to leak a bit if you don't.

[Frederick H.]

Thanks Patrick.

[Frederick H.]

David & Patrick,
Will the copper anti-seize also function as a sealant? I saw search results where there are also copper-based sealants.

Thanks,
Fred

[David M.]

No, anti seize is a lubricant.
The high heat "copper" says behind allowing exhaust components to be disassembled with relative ease years after installation.

I use it and the standard graphite based on most components which I may have to dig into in the future, especially on the daily drivers that get salted down in the less pleasant months of winter.

The sealer Patrick describes works well on problem leak spots. There are a couple of name brands out there. I use a product from Yale Automotive it has iron as a base ingredient in the paste.

yale.jpg

[Frederick H.]

Yep - I picked up some Permatex Anti-Seize lubricant (not copper-based though) and some JB Weld exhaust system sealant (not the stuff you mix together). I don't want to apply the sealant to the area that Patrick mentioned until I have everything lined up.

Thanks,
Fred