What's wrong with this steering?

[Donald H.]

This is a friend's 66. Complete restoration finished earlier this year. A very complete restoration. The issue is the Steering wheel alignment changes. We have re-clocked the steering wheel at least twice in the last month. This is standard steering in a 66 so fairly easy to take the pinch clamp loose at the end of the steering shaft, remove the pinch bolt from the steering coupler and slide the steering shaft up enough to get the coupler off the steering gear box and re-clock at the steering box and not having to remove the steering wheel and mess up the steering wheel to steering shaft alighment.

The friend texted today and said the wheel was off again. I have driven a few C2's and this one has very tight steering. The gear box was rebuilt by Bair's and has very little if any play in the box or rest of the steering. The tie rod ends were new with the restoration.

I'm going to look at the end-to-end steering early next week. Anyone have any idea how and where this could happen?

Thanks,
Don

[Robert P.]

Don , could the splines be worn enough on either end of the rag joint causing one to jump a tooth, or the column or box splines
maybe put a paint dob to mark it
Bob

[Mark E.]

Don , could the splines be worn enough on either end of the rag joint causing one to jump a tooth, or the column or box splines
maybe put a paint dob to mark it
Bob

This is a likely cause. Was the rag joint replaced? Sometimes the clamp on either end is a bit looser than the original. With the bolt loose it should be a fairly tight with minimal slop.

[Donald H.]

I'm not able to work on it until next Tuesday, but I will check. The rag joint was new when installed. I don't know for sure, but it may have been an over-the-counter NOS one purchased in the early 90's. The original owner of this car started collecting part back then anticipating a restoration.

I know the rag joint pinch bolts were tight because I did the first re-clocking and I know I they there tight; however, I did not look closely at the splines. Another friend did the second re-clocking.

This time I am going to pull the rag joint completely out and check all the splines.

we will have it on a lift, and I want to closely check the pitman arm and relay rod. I cannot think of how any of this could be the cause though.

Thanks,
Don

[Leif A.]

Don , could the splines be worn enough on either end of the rag joint causing one to jump a tooth, or the column or box splines
maybe put a paint dob to mark it
Bob

Don,
This was my first thought, as well. However, don't disregard the splines on the steering wheel end of the column shaft. Highly unlikely they're stripped, but if all else checks out, it's worth a look.

[Donald H.]

Thanks for the suggestion Leif. Yes, I was planning to pull the steering wheel.

[Gary C.]

Don,

Can't you sinch down the rag joint with a pipe wrench with extension pipe and crank hard on the steering wheel to see if anything gives?

Gary
....

[Donald H.]

Don,

Can't you sinch down the rag joint with a pipe wrench with extension pipe and crank hard on the steering wheel to see if anything gives?

Gary
....

good idea. I’ll try that. I Think I will also try to hold the pitman arm while turning the steering wheel.

[Joseph S.]

Don, Could the large cotter pin in the end of the drag link (Steering shaft from box to idler) be missing and the end screw be backing off/out?

[Donald H.]

Thank Joe,

Another good suggestion to check out.

Hopefully we find the problem tomorrow. If we do I will post what we find.

Don

[David H.]

Donald

As this is a new coupler, are you sure it is clamping down all the way? NOT that you are not tightening it properly.

Check if clamping bolts have sufficient thread to completely tighten clamp. Or are threads "bottoming out" before clamp is truely tight.

Dave

[Mark E.]

Donald

As this is a new coupler, are you sure it is clamping down all the way? NOT that you are not tightening it properly.

Check if clamping bolts have sufficient thread to completely tighten clamp. Or are threads "bottoming out" before clamp is truely tight.

Dave

I had this problem when I installed a good, used OEM rag joint with original rivets. For some reason the clamp for the steering box was slightly larger so the clamp bolt bottomed out before achieving a tight fit. I ended up cutting longer threads on the bolt to cinch down further. I'm still not certain this is a good idea but it's working so far.

[Peter H.]

Donald I Added Two Lock Washers Under The Cinch Bolts. Problem Solved
Quick Fix. Peter 🇨🇦

[John P.]

Hello Donald, you may want to check the rear suspension components especially the trailing arm bushings. Changes in rear alignment effects the rear axle thrust angle and will cause the steering wheel to change to compensate for the rear axle deflection caused by worn bushings. Also check the torque on the trailing arm mount bolts and any change in the shim position.