Tri-Power Manifold Function - NCRS Discussion Boards

Tri-Power Manifold Function

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  • Thomas S.
    Very Frequent User
    • February 7, 2016
    • 618

    #16
    There are some good YouTube videos on the topic. This one details the linkage mechanism for a Dodge/Holley setup which is essentially the same as far as how to set it up. While I can't find a version of that book you reference, the instruction in my other post are essentially the same as what appears in the video.

    the mid-point of the linkage has to be at the bottom of the slot on the mid-carb linkage. Some good points in these 2 videos. I don't claim to be an authority on this subject, but logically the explanations make sense and work in practice.





    67 427/400 Lynndale Blue Corvette https://online.flippingbook.com/view/750924569

    Comment

    • Mark F.
      Extremely Frequent Poster
      • July 31, 1998
      • 1524

      #17
      Originally posted by Mark Francis (30800)
      Tom, Although for the life of me I can't find a reference to this, but my "recollection" is the secondaries don't start to open until roughly 2,000 rpm...so "normal" street driving would not have them opening up all the time... Duke Williams will know for sure...hopefully he'll see your post and have a better answer.
      Update:
      Here's where I got my numbers...



      image.png
      thx,
      Mark

      Comment

      • Danny P.
        Very Frequent User
        • June 30, 2002
        • 341

        #18
        Originally posted by Mark Francis (30800)

        Update:
        Here's where I got my numbers...
        [url]http://www.cranescorvette.com/tripower-5-_427_corveACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","title":"image.png","data-attachmentid":1579811}[/ATTACH]
        I still don't understand by your posts what your trying to do with your Tri Power setup ?????

        Comment

        • Thomas S.
          Very Frequent User
          • February 7, 2016
          • 618

          #19
          Danny, it's a long story but will try to condense it down. After some totally unrelated repair where the rear of the car was up in the air for about 2-3 hours, it wouldn't start, the car always kicks over after a few cranks. I thought perhaps the issue I've read about, which is parking on a hill causing flooding might be the problem and might have partially fill one or more cylinders. The center and front carbs had developed a leak on the bottom 2 float bowl screws. I pull the plus and they were in bad shape, then pull the carbs and there was lot of staining inside the manifold ( racing fuel tinted green).

          It must have been pure coincidence that the failure to start, and the leaky bowl screws developed while it was on the lift. For one, the rear of the care was not that high. The repair was to replace the rear spring link bushing to correct the way the car was sitting. No way one thing had anything to do with the other.

          I thought perhaps the outboards had developed some internal leak causing a rich mixture, but that was not the case. After putting "Humpty Dumpty" back together again, she starts right up. A wild goose chaise with a happy ending. I do plan on checking the plugs after some miles to see if they are fouled again and then dig into it a bit further. I also scoped the cylinders and one had significant carbon buildup on it.

          I've set things before, the correct way, a the car has always run very well. The car fires up like before so who knows.
          67 427/400 Lynndale Blue Corvette https://online.flippingbook.com/view/750924569

          Comment

          • Thomas S.
            Very Frequent User
            • February 7, 2016
            • 618

            #20
            Found this "official" Chevrolet Service News short explanation on how to properly adjust the linkage on a Tri Power setup.
            Attached Files
            67 427/400 Lynndale Blue Corvette https://online.flippingbook.com/view/750924569

            Comment

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