4 Sp Shifter Removal - Again - NCRS Discussion Boards

4 Sp Shifter Removal - Again

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  • Michael C.
    Very Frequent User
    • January 8, 2013
    • 328

    4 Sp Shifter Removal - Again

    Very difficult to get into reverse on my 69 manual - Muncie. No problem with forward gears. Searching this forum and elsewhere this seems to be a common issue. No problem with lockout cable to steering column.

    I made an alignment gauge and using it I found that the reverse rod was out of adjustment. Now the shift lever easily moves into the far left position towards reverse. If takes some force to move into reverse. Not a lot of force, but more than 1st or 3rd. The resistance is almost like pushing against hard sponge rubber. No interference with the tunnel insulation. I’m thinking I need to bite the bullet and pull the shifter for a rebuild. It is rather rusty but not gunked up with dirt and grease.

    I’ve read MANY posts on the topic and see many different opinions about how to remove the shifter. I see the two bolts holding the shifter to the bracket and understand that the upper bolt is loosened from the bracket from above and the lower bolt removed from below. I’ve seen some say to pull the shifter and rods out from above. Others say drop the shifter down.

    Does the bracket have to be removed and possibly the forward exhaust pipe to get the shifter down? No side pipes. Can these steps be avoided by going up?

    Can I unbolt the three levers from the trans and leave them attached to the rods to avoid having to deal with the G clips with everything in the tunnel?

    Thanks,
    Mike
  • Keith B.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • September 15, 2014
    • 1574

    #2
    remove the shifter ball and T handle and remove the reverse lock out rod connected to the T handle to make sure that is not the problem

    Comment

    • Michael C.
      Very Frequent User
      • January 8, 2013
      • 328

      #3
      Keith, the reverse lock out rod in the shift lever isn't the problem because otherwise I wouldn't be able to get to reverse at all. However, your suggestion did prompt me to reconsider factors I had previously eliminated. In my original post I stated that the lock out cable to the steering column wasn't the problem. I said that because when I was able to get into reverse, I could remove the key. After dislocating the cable from the reverse lever, the movement into reverse no longer requires extra effort. I guess I'll remove it and see if I can improve it with some speedo/tach cable lubricant I have.

      Even with this "success," I still would like to remove and rebuild the shifter. Even though I can shift to all gears, I believe some of the sloppy looseness could be reduced with a rebuild. Removal tips will still be appreciated.

      Comment

      • Michael C.
        Very Frequent User
        • January 8, 2013
        • 328

        #4
        Got the shifter out. Removed the front exhaust pipe but not the bracket. Now forward to clean up and rebuild kit. Can someone tell me where these shims go? They fell from somewhere as I was pulling the shifter down. I don't see them in the AIM or the service manual.
        ShifterShims.jpg

        Comment

        • Bill B.
          Very Frequent User
          • August 1, 2016
          • 303

          #5
          Michael, those look an awful like the shims used for caster and camber settings of the front suspension. Why they would be in the shifter assembly is beyond me. Bubba was there?
          Bill Bertelli
          Northeast and Carolinas Chapters Member
          '70 Resto Mod LT-1 w/ partial '70 ZR-1 drivetrain

          Comment

          • Michael C.
            Very Frequent User
            • January 8, 2013
            • 328

            #6
            Someone on another forum commented that they might have been used to align the shifter in the tunnel opening. I’ll look closely for any clues for this possibility on the side of the shifter and the bracket.

            Comment

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