C3 Fuel Pump Installation

[Ed A.]

Hi, I need to replace the Fuel pump on my 1979 L82 Vette, I can get at the two bolts to remove the pump, and I've read the forums and seen the video's on pulling the pump, but I need some advice on reinstalling the new pump. I have a long extension on a ratchet for removal but doe's the replacement require two people one under the car and one in the wheel well? Also, I can't get at the bolt to hold the pump rod in place, how do I keep the rod in the up position to install the pump.
Any advice or step by step or video references would be greatly appreciated.

[Patrick H.]

Loosen the metal fuel line at the fuel pump and the carburetor first. Fuel will drain out of the fuel pump end.
Clamp the fuel lines from the pump to the frame, else they will leak too.
Loosen the rubber fuel lines from pump to frame.

I use one of these in the bolt from the front of the engine to hold the fuel pump push rod:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PNXXT4
You should (?) be able to get at that bolt on the front. Is something else in the way?
Last, remove the fuel pump.

If you already remove it and the fuel pump push rod is down, I have replaced one using one hand to hold the rod out of the way, and then installing the pump. The nylon bolt above is easier, even if you do it after the pump is removed.

[Tim G.]

Put some axle grease on the rod and shove it back in place. The heavy grease will hold it in place for a long time. The small block holes are hard to access with the radiator hose in place. Big blocks are easier to access with a bolt.

[Ed A.]

Tim, Thanks for the response, I'm most interested in installing the new pump. How to hold the new pump in place while installing the two pump bolts?

[Owen L.]

Tim, Thanks for the response, I'm most interested in installing the new pump. How to hold the new pump in place while installing the two pump bolts?

I believe if the engine is at TDC #1 or 6, the fuel pump eccentric is on the base circle so you won't be adding extra fight from any camshaft lift. As long as you can get the bolts started, you'll be able to alternate and bring the pump up snug.

Some folks put temporary studs in the block to get the pump aligned and use nuts to bring it to the block, then swap out each stud one at a time with the proper bolt.

[Tim G.]

Owen, great idea, I've never thought of that.

[Ed A.]

Loosen the metal fuel line at the fuel pump and the carburetor first. Fuel will drain out of the fuel pump end.
Clamp the fuel lines from the pump to the frame, else they will leak too.
Loosen the rubber fuel lines from pump to frame.

I use one of these in the bolt from the front of the engine to hold the fuel pump push rod:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PNXXT4
You should (?) be able to get at that bolt on the front. Is something else in the way?
Last, remove the fuel pump.

If you already remove it and the fuel pump push rod is down, I have replaced one using one hand to hold the rod out of the way, and then installing the pump. The nylon bolt above is easier, even if you do it after the pump is removed.

Patrick, Thanks for your response sorry for the delay in responding I wasn't sure how to generate a response, to answer your question everything is in the way, the steering linkage and the A Frame bracket etc, I'm a small guy with small hands and can't get my hands on anything. I can send you pic's if you'd like. My main concern is reinstalling the new pump, does it take two people, after using a long extension to remove the two bolts how do you reinstall the bolts while holding the pump in place? Also, I can't even see the bolt at the front of the block to lock the rod in place, however I have not removed the pump as yet.
Any Tips would be appreciated.

Thanks For Your Input.
Ed

[Ed A.]

I believe if the engine is at TDC #1 or 6, the fuel pump eccentric is on the base circle so you won't be adding extra fight from any camshaft lift. As long as you can get the bolts started, you'll be able to alternate and bring the pump up snug.

Some folks put temporary studs in the block to get the pump aligned and use nuts to bring it to the block, then swap out each stud one at a time with the proper bolt.

Owen, Thanks for the response the studs sound like a good idea unfortunately with my 79 I can't get my hands on anything, I've seen posts where they suggest pulling the engine??? Perhaps after I pull the pump I'll have a little more access, thankfully I have small hands.

Thanks Again,
Ed

[Owen L.]

Some 35 years ago, in a Tucson hotel parking lot, a friend and I swapped out the fuel pump on my '72 (454, A/C). It wasn't a pleasant experience but we did manage it somehow. I think if you can get another pair of hands it will make it a little easier: one holding the pump in place with the second person driving the bolts with a long extension just below the inner fender skirt.

Studs may not work, but even 1/2"-1" longer temporary bolts might assist enough to get it oriented and secured enough to put in the regular bolts.
(Some grease or assembly lube on both ends of the pushrod and the pump arm would be a good thing too.)

[Tim G.]

No need to pull the engine. I've changed the fuel pump on both my '67 L79's within the past year and it can be done. You just have to get at it from various angles with different wrenches. You really need access from the bottom, also. Take your time and be patient.

[Ed A.]

No need to pull the engine. I've changed the fuel pump on both my '67 L79's within the past year and it can be done. You just have to get at it from various angles with different wrenches. You really need access from the bottom, also. Take your time and be patient.

Tim, Thanks for the tip, I've got my car up on four jackstands and will give it a shot. I'm currently waiting on new rubber hoses etc.

Ed

[Ed A.]

Some 35 years ago, in a Tucson hotel parking lot, a friend and I swapped out the fuel pump on my '72 (454, A/C). It wasn't a pleasant experience but we did manage it somehow. I think if you can get another pair of hands it will make it a little easier: one holding the pump in place with the second person driving the bolts with a long extension just below the inner fender skirt.

Studs may not work, but even 1/2"-1" longer temporary bolts might assist enough to get it oriented and secured enough to put in the regular bolts.
(Some grease or assembly lube on both ends of the pushrod and the pump arm would be a good thing too.)

Owen, Thanks, that's what I thought, I'm waiting on parts and I'll give it a shot.

Ed

[Patrick H.]

Here are 2 pictures I found/borrowed that show the bolt location to hold the fuel pump pushrod.

I start the bolts by finger, then use a socket to finish. I've not ever had to do one from the wheelwell; usually a 3 inch extension to clear the pump is more than enough. You might try a 1/4-in drive socket wrench.

[Rick M.]

Regarding the fuel pump rod- Get the motor at TDC for #1 cylinder. However, it needs to be TDC on the exhaust stroke, not compression stroke. That way the rod will be off the cam eccentric. If the rod is riding on the eccentric at full base, it is very difficult to get the bolts started as you would need to move the pump lever down while trying to get the bolts started. Bottom line, rotate the engine over until the rod is as far up in the block as it will go. Make your installation easier. And yes, if you can't get to the front block bolt, a dab of grease will hold the rod in place while you install the pump.