62 Fuelie with Pertronix troubles

[Richard L.]

Makes no difference whether it sits idling like it did a little bit ago or driving, it's always around the 10 minute mark, and it runs fine clear up until it starts missing, refuses to idle and then dies unless prompted by the gas pedal to keep it going--barely--otherwise it just dies. The temperature gauge reads anywhere between 180 and 190 degrees.
Today I took the following measurements:
--Ballast resistor: Cold, ignition on, engine off, read 12.19v and 5.32v (terminal with wire going to coil+)
--Ballast resistor: Hot, engine running, read 15.2v and 10.7v (terminal with wire going to coil+)
I did not drive it but simply let it idle in my driveway and the symptoms were EXACTLTY the same as when I road test it, same number of minutes, no more than 10.
I am truly stumped.

Forgot to answer your last question: the choke stays on very little, I usually tap the gas pedal and it goes off.

[Jim L.]

Forgot to answer your last question: the choke stays on very little, I usually tap the gas pedal and it goes off.

By "very little".... how much time is that? 1 minute? 5 minutes? 3.14 minutes?

When the engine stumbles and dies, have you ever seen fuel coming out of the top of the fuel bowl?

FYI: 15.2 Volts on the hot side of the ballast resistor sez your Voltage regulator needs adjusting. You should be seeing ~14.0 Volts.

[Richard L.]

By "very little".... how much time is that? 1 minute? 5 minutes? 3.14 minutes?

When the engine stumbles and dies, have you ever seen fuel coming out of the top of the fuel bowl?

FYI: 15.2 Volts on the hot side of the ballast resistor sez your Voltage regulator needs adjusting. You should be seeing ~14.0 Volts.

Between 1 and 2 minutes on the choke, when it runs a bit above 1,000 rpm, then when I tap the gas pedal it slows to a nice even idle, I'd guess around 800 rpm or so.
Ok, I'll try and adjust the voltage regulator if I can do it without opening it up.

[Gary B.]

…Ok, I'll try and adjust the voltage regulator if I can do it without opening it up.

I’m not 100% sure this document applies to your voltage regulator, but it might. It contains more information than any person should ever need to know about D-R voltage regulators.

http://www.ruiter.ca/mc/info/PDFs/1R-118.pdf

Gary

[Jim L.]

Ok, I'll try and adjust the voltage regulator if I can do it without opening it up.

You will need to remove the cover to access the adjustments. The procedure you will follow is in your shop manual.

[Duke W.]

FYI: 15.2 Volts on the hot side of the ballast resistor sez your Voltage regulator needs adjusting. You should be seeing ~14.0 Volts.

I was going to mention that, but you beat me to it.

From the voltage readings I expect the ballast is 0.3 ohms, but actual measurements of ballast resistance and coil primary resistance (along with identifying the coils by part number either OE or aftermarket) is needed.

Given that the problem always starts after about about the same amount of engine run time, it could be a thermal issue. Assuming the ballast is 0.3 ohm swapping in a 1.8 ohm unit along with adjusting system voltage down below 14.5 will reduce primary current for less wattage and therefore heat input to the coil.

Duke

[Joel M.]

Possible Intake or head gasket allowing air/water intrusion when engine warms up? Shot in dark!

[Wayne S.]

Possible Intake or head gasket allowing air/water intrusion when engine warms up? Shot in dark!

May not be a 100% shot in the dark. I'd put a vacuum gauge on the engine and see what happens at that 10 minute mark? Additionally, a fuel pressure gauge temporarily plumbed in just before the carburetor would be a great bonus (stay away from those little made-in-China jobs). If it loses fuel pressure after 10 minutes, you'll know the culprit. WS

[Richard L.]

May not be a 100% shot in the dark. I'd put a vacuum gauge on the engine and see what happens at that 10 minute mark? Additionally, a fuel pressure gauge temporarily plumbed in just before the carburetor would be a great bonus (stay away from those little made-in-China jobs). If it loses fuel pressure after 10 minutes, you'll know the culprit. WS

Wayne,
It's a fuelie, but no matter, I'm going to see what kind of fuel flow I get with the electric pump which I think is a Carter--don't know if it's China junk or not but I'm inclined to revert to the stock mechanical fuel pump. I originally changed it so as to facilitate starting but it takes so long to prime/fill the bowl that I'm almost convinced it's not pushing enough fuel.

[Wayne S.]

Wayne,
It's a fuelie, but no matter, I'm going to see what kind of fuel flow I get with the electric pump which I think is a Carter--don't know if it's China junk or not but I'm inclined to revert to the stock mechanical fuel pump. I originally changed it so as to facilitate starting but it takes so long to prime/fill the bowl that I'm almost convinced it's not pushing enough fuel.

duh..on the fuelie part...Sorry my mistake! But....I suspect you just might have just discovered your dilemma. As the pump heats up, fuel pressure likely decreases. Carter is not the same Carter it used to be, unfortunately...

[George J.]

I don't remember seeing that you replaced the condenser. I had a similar issue with my car, and that was the cause.

[Richard L.]

I don't remember seeing that you replaced the condenser. I had a similar issue with my car, and that was the cause.

The Pertronix had no condenser of course so when I reinstalled the points ignition I also put in a new condenser. Heck, years ago I even forgot to install a condenser-duh!--but that time it was easy since it wouldn't fire.

[Richard L.]

duh..on the fuelie part...Sorry my mistake! But....I suspect you just might have just discovered your dilemma. As the pump heats up, fuel pressure likely decreases. Carter is not the same Carter it used to be, unfortunately...

Today I put in a 1.8 ohm ballast resistor, the two fuel filters (inline and on the injector), new Autolite 295 plugs and 5 gals of av gas. If the limited 10 minute-long persists, out comes the electric pump (tested it COLD today and flows plenty) and in goes the mechanical one tomorrow.
After that, I may shoot it--LOL--or else put in carb/manifold until I can get my local FI guru to go through the injector. I want to be able to drive the car this summer!

[Wayne S.]

"I may shoot it...." L-O-L. I know the feeling
Please keep us posted! WS

[Jim L.]

Today I put in a 1.8 ohm ballast resistor, the two fuel filters (inline and on the injector), new Autolite 295 plugs and 5 gals of av gas. If the limited 10 minute-long persists, out comes the electric pump (tested it COLD today and flows plenty) and in goes the mechanical one tomorrow.
After that, I may shoot it--LOL--or else put in carb/manifold until I can get my local FI guru to go through the injector. I want to be able to drive the car this summer!

Major step backwards. You haven't said anything which indicts the fuel injection. Nothing at all.