1967 L71 Radiator removal

[Mark K.]

I am looking for thoughts on how to remove my 1967 L71's radiator to have it re-cored. After 58 years, the radiator finally blew. The car is an original car and would be a 4-bow-tie candidate if I were to go in that direction. It was judged top flight at a regional level event over 20 years ago. Though I'm not considering future judging at this point, I do want to keep it original.

Some of the advice I am getting is a bit contradictory concerning how to remover the radiator. The directions in the 67 Service manual do not note removal of the water pump as a step, but since you have to remove both the fan shroud and the radiator together, there seems to be no way past the water pump. And it's not a small gap to overcome - more like 2 inches. I recently moved to Florida, but my trusted mechanic (one of the best C2 guys in Michigan) told me that the water pump needs to come out. Yet I hear from other people that it does not.

A couple of hours trying to get the radiator/shroud out without the removal of the water pump has me believing my mechanic. So, this is more of a Hail Mary pass. Is there a silver bullet that I seem to be missing?

A couple of pictures below. The radiator and shroud ready to come out and a picture at the 2012 Eyes on Design show at the Eleanor and Edsel Ford home.
IMG_3376.jpg008.jpg

[Duke W.]

Re: 1967 L71 Radiator removal

I've not removed a BB radiator, but on SBs removing the fan shroud and fan usually allows the radiator to be removed without removing the hood. From the photo I don't see why this will not work with your BB.

If the radiator is original there should be a metal tag with the part number and production code clipped onto a side tank, probably down low on the RH tank. Remove this and save for the recored radiator.

Check the AMA specs for the tube and fin count, and try to find a core with the same for equivalent cooling capacity. Traditional radiator shops are disappearing, so I suggest you contact DeWitts and talk to them about a recore.

L-71 was originally equipped with ported vacuum advance. This can cause hot running, so converting to full time vacuum advance will reduce temperatures in around town stop and go driving. Assuming you still have the OE 15" 201 15 VAC you will need to swap it out for a 12" B26 (NAPA VC-1765, which can be cross referenced to other brands). To swap out the VAC without disturbing the distributor pump it down to the limit of travel to remove and pump down the new one to install.

The simplest way to implement full time vacuum advance is to remove the existing hose between the choke vacuum break and carburetor nipple and the hose from the current ported vacuum source to the intermediate pipe. Plug the ported vacuum carb nipple with a vacuum cap, and make a new harness with a couple of feet of 1/8" vacuum tubing and a 1/8" tee to provide full manifold vacuum to both the choke vacuum break and the intermediate pipe to the VAC. Set the idle at 900, and it should pull 14" manifold vacuum, so a 12" VAC meets the Two-Inch Rule.

All who have made this slight modification over the last 20+ years have reported lower operating temperatures.

Duke

[Mark K.]

Re: 1967 L71 Radiator removal

Duke,

Thanks for the reply. Unlike the SB, the directions for the BB radiator removal calls for the hood to be taken off. One difference with the BB is that the radiator and the shroud have to come out together otherwise there is the risk of damaging the fiberglass shroud. The hood has to come off the access the radiator bolts that are under the horn, and it makes access easier. That has now been done. And just before I saw your post, I removed the water pump as well. It was easier to do so than I thought it would be.

The radiator was probably just "damaged" due to father time. The core was leaking in the middle of the radiator. I had not been having significant overheating issues, but then I would not often drive the car in traffic.

When I lived in Michigan, I had Werner Meier's Masterworks team (or guys that branched off from him) working on the car. I did a lot of work myself, but it was always nice to know those guys were there. I have kept the car completely stock so I haven't changed the vacuum advance. When I get the car up and running again I will look at that minor change. Again, I appreciate your reply.

[Duke W.]

Re: 1967 L71 Radiator removal

If you think the pump is original and as long as it is off you should consider having it rebuilt. It's pretty simple - just a new SAE standard bearing, seal and cover gasket. Don't clean the casting other than just degreasing and washing with soap and water.

SAE standard water pump bearings for the era come in two sizes 5/8" and 3/4", and within this size group there are two types, ball/ball and ball/roller. The latter replaces the front row of balls with rollers and is more durable.

I'm not sure of the size or type that was OE on your engine. You can't change the size, but regardless of the original type, replace the bearing with a ball/roller type.

Duke

[Mark K.]

Re: 1967 L71 Radiator removal

Thanks Duke. I do plan to have the water pump rebuilt. It doesn't have a lot of miles on it (the car has about 34K), but while it's out, I agree it's best to have it rebuilt "just in case". I do also want to keep the original finish so I'll have to find someone who can do that. I will look for the ball/roller type as you suggested.