Painting C2
I am in the process of stripping lacquer paint on 66 that I did a ground off restoration in the early eighties. I stripped the car for that restoration and had a local paint shop that specialized in custom work and is now long gone. My stripping process is going well but have a question on primer coats that are on my car. I have three different layers that were applied to the car for that restoration. The top coat is black lacquer and under that is a reddish brown primer. Both of these are very thin and the paint stripper does well removing these layers. The last layer bonded to the fiberglass is white and much thicker than the other coats. The paint stripper does not remove this layer and I have to remove with an orbital sander. I am assuming this is an epoxy primer as it produces a fine powder when sanded away. Looking for any comments or suggestions on this project. The paint job has held up very well over the last 40 years and I would like to repaint using the same process but will be painting with a single stage paint.
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Re: Painting C2
Walter,
If you're using paint stripper to strip your '66, you need to let the stripper totally air out for a month and set in the sun if you can.
Gary
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NCRS Texas Chapter
https://www.ncrstexas.org/
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=61565408483631 -
Re: Painting C2
Walter
Talk with your painter. If that layer is epoxy and in good condition it may not have to come off.
DA and fiberglass can be problematic.
DaveJudging Chairman Mid-Way USA (Kansas) ChapterComment
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Re: Painting C2
Don't understand "Let stripper air out for a month"Comment
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Re: Painting C2
When chemical paint stripper is used, it's best for any stripper residue to be totally evaporated from the body or you could have problems. One of the best ways to accomplish that is to let the body set outside in the sun for a month.
Gary
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NCRS Texas Chapter
https://www.ncrstexas.org/
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=61565408483631Comment
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Re: Painting C2
When I stripped off the OE paint from my SWC back in the seventies with "aircraft paint stripper" back in the seventies it wouldn't touch the "red oxide factory primer, so I ended sanding most of it off.
I recall after this initial factory primer process was applied and sanded a thin top coat of a gray primer was sprayed on and then sanded lightly to reveal body contour defects, which were corrected and then the final acrylic lacquer coats were applied.
So when you stripped your car back in the eighties did you remove all the factory red primer, and how did you do it.
DukeComment
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Re: Painting C2
Walter,
The best advice I can give is to first find a good reputable painter that is well versed in today's products and preparation requirements. Then, with his help, you can select the materials you wish to use and come up with a preparation plan. I am not sure if you plan to have your car judged but, that may enter into the decision making process. When I restored my '65 coupe, I consulted with Tom Ames who was, at that time, the NCRS paint and body guy. He was extremely helpful and provided me with a contact of the owner of a similar colored car that I, along with my painter, could view. We used a basecoat/clearcoat system and it turned out very well. My painter was able to replicate the original factory appearance complete with orange peel texture. My color is Milano Maroon which is one of the most difficult colors to get right. Tom STRONGLY recommended that we use paint from the original manufacturer (Dupont; now Axalta) as they have the correct "grind" of the metallic particles that go into the mixture. Anyway, my car is now a Duntov certified Corvette so I'd say we were successful in what we did. You needn't take my word alone, simply do some more research on this TDB....it is a wealth of information.
TerryComment
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Re: Painting C2
I removed all paint and primer when I stripped it in the 80's so what I am dealing with was applied to bare fiberglass. I don't think I would have to let the body season in the sun as there is no possible way any stripper is coming closes to the fiberglass as it takes off most of the lacquer and red/brown primer but leaves the lawyer of epoxy type primer that has to be sanded off. I have completed about one half of the job so leaving that lawyer is not an option. Process going quite well and will take about 50-60 hours to complete. I am being very careful with my sanding when i get close to the fiberglass.Comment
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Re: Painting C2
hi walter
steve chaney here. years ago when i was painting learjets down here in tucson we used a white colored product called hi-build. we had some fiberglass areas on the lear that required this to fiil in the texture on the glass. it was great because it was thicker, filled fast and was soft and easy to sand. that might be what your white layer is. i'm at a loss right now to remember the supplier.. as for the reddish brown stuff. for cars we used some stuff from RM..rinshed mason.. called SS-7 ..that could be it. but i'm going way way back... the hi-build might have been Bostik ..sp good luckComment
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Re: Painting C2
Thanks for reply and that appears to be similar to product on my car. Regardless as to what it is I am removing and have a process that works for me and I am about 2/3 completed with stripping. I like the product that the painter, who is long gone, put on in the 80's simply as the paint job was very nice and held up well. I will be painting the car at my home in a temporary paint booth as it has been impossible to find a local painter that wouldn't be able to take it in for at least a year. Not versed in painting, but have a lot of resources, and will make it through.Comment
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Re: Painting C2
Walter, For the painting consider taking a body course at a local community college. There you will have advice, paint booth, etc. for a small fee. I have a friend that did that and was very pleased with the result. Good luckComment
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Re: Painting C2
great choice walter..stick with what you know that works..with the advent of basecoat / clearcoat ,, making your own booth and getting a dust free paint job is do-able now...wetting the floor down helps too
good luck
and also you're saving a ton of cash... paint and materials have gone to the moon in the last few years.
use a good urethane primer and let it breathe for a few days after you have block/wet sanded it.. helps with shrinkage and premature showing of bonding stripsComment
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Re: Painting C2
I found a local friend of a friend that use to be a painter but has gone into another line of work. I am doing all the prep work when stripping completed and she will do the painting when paint booth completed. We just met as she wanted to look at the car first. Feel very comfortable now with her doing the spraying.Comment
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