Lube Job

[Christopher R.]

I've always done the routine maintenance on my '62. But now I want to bring it to a shop to change the oil and grease the front end. I don't feel like crawling under there anymore, and I have to take it someplace to get an inspection sticker anyway. So, I'm compiling a list of the grease points/zerks from the ST-12. I want to give the mechanic a checklist. Is this accurate? 22 places?

Front Suspension Right Side

• upper control arm rear inner
• upper control arm rear outer
• upper control arm front
• lower control arm front
• lower control arm rear inner
• lower control arm rear outer

Front Suspension Left Side

• upper control arm rear inner
• upper control arm rear outer
• upper control arm front
• lower control arm front
• lower control arm rear inner
• lower control arm rear outer

Steering

• steering connecting rod - 2 places
• tie rods - 4 places
• kingpin right side
• kingpin left side

Drive Shaft

• 2 U-joints

[Duke W.]

Re: Lube Job

I can't verify your zerk count, but since most modern cars have few if any suspension and steering joints that require periodic greasing you may have a tough time finding a shop that even has a manual grease gun to do the job, so you may have to provide them with one.

You are certainly wise to provide them with all the lube points including a schematic of where they are. If ST-12 has an illustration of the zerk locations, copy it and provide the shop with a copy.

Check the AMA specs for information on grease points, too.

Duke

[David Z.]

Re: Lube Job

Here's a diagram you can take with you.
Dave Z
C1 front lubrication points.jpg

[Christopher R.]

Re: Lube Job

Thank you, Duke and David.

It never occurred to me that a shop wouldn't have a grease gun. But I guess you're right. They probably don't sell buggy whips anymore too. Can you believe that Chevrolet recommended that you lube the front suspension every 1000 miles. For most people, that'd be once a month.

[Paul H.]

Re: Lube Job

Bring it down the Cape and we can do it on my lift. Been doing my 61 for 40 years. Yes, I have grease guns!

[Duke W.]

Re: Lube Job

Thank you, Duke and David.

It never occurred to me that a shop wouldn't have a grease gun. But I guess you're right. They probably don't sell buggy whips anymore too. Can you believe that Chevrolet recommended that you lube the front suspension every 1000 miles. For most people, that'd be once a month.

You should visit some local shops and inquire whether they can do the job. Show them the diagram and check to see if their eyes bug out.

I think your best bet is to take Paul up on his offer.

Yes, back in the day every gas station had a "lube rack" and they were usually pretty busy. In the early sixties when I worked at the Elliot Eagle and Brown Bear Car Wash in Seattle I did a lot of them and I recall the price was two bucks (and so was a car wash). I remember there were often joints that "jumped" when the pneumatic grease gun injected grease, which meant the joint was well worn.

If you don't drive your car on dirt roads or in the rain often I think you can considerably increase that service frequency.

Duke

[Mark E.]

Re: Lube Job

Good advice above. Avoid the chains and even dealers. They'll be irritated how long this lube and oil change takes. And don't let anyone use a compressed air grease gun. The lowest ranking, least experienced tech does LOF, and there's a good chance he'll blow out several seals.

Take up Paul on his offer or find a low volume specialty shop. Better yet, unless your disabled just do it yourself. Easier, faster, and done right. Plus it's a great opportunity to poke around underneath to make sure everything is okay.

[Michael H.]

Re: Lube Job

Hi Chris, here is my cheat sheet. FYI, the Dewalt 20V MAX Grease Gun with the LockNLube Grease Gun Coupler makes the job easier. Mike

Screenshot 2024-10-02 175242.jpg

[Mark E.]

Re: Lube Job

Hi Chris, here is my cheat sheet. FYI, the Dewalt 20V MAX Grease Gun with the LockNLube Grease Gun Coupler makes the job easier. Mike

Please be careful if you use a powered gun. This gun delivers 10,000 psi which can make quick work of older, less pliable rubber if not careful.

If that much force is needed, it's often due to a stuck zerk. It's safer to sense an obstruction by using a manual gun, then clean or replace the zerk.

[Michael H.]

Re: Lube Job

Mark raised a valid point. So far, I've encountered no issues and am curious about which C1 rubber seals might pose a problem, as most interfaces seem to be metal on metal. Does anyone know the specific interfaces with rubber seals that could be problematic?

[Mark E.]

Re: Lube Job

Mark raised a valid point. So far, I've encountered no issues and am curious about which C1 rubber seals might pose a problem, as most interfaces seem to be metal on metal. Does anyone know the specific interfaces with rubber seals that could be problematic?

Good point Michael. Ball joints seals are vulnerable but C1 doesn't have those. And I'm not familiar with C1 control arm grease seals. Tie rod end seals usually don't pop.... grease just oozes from the edges.

Maybe a C1 guy can chime in.

[Duke W.]

Re: Lube Job

I think most ball joint seals have a small "vent hole", but I recall seeing some blow up like a balloon, but never burst.

Duke

[Mark E.]

Re: Lube Job

I think most ball joint seals have a small "vent hole", but I recall seeing some blow up like a balloon, but never burst.

Duke

You don't have the magic touch (or bad luck?) I do.