58 Body/Frame Shimming

[Jason P.]

I have been working on adding shims to my 58 in order to get the gaps correct and the radiator core support to fan shroud alignment correct.

I am getting closer.

I went to take measurements using the top of the wheel openings as my measuring point with the wheels on the ground.

Is this a valid measuring point and should the distance be pretty much the same for all 4 wheel openings?

Thanks,
Jason

[Richard M.]

Re: 58 Body/Frame Shimming

Jason in your 1958 AIM, see Section 3. In it will be where you need to measure for designed heights. It specs both "Design Load" and "Curb Weight". This may be hard to attain on the car if incomplete, old springs, etc.

Here are the '61 specs for reference, which may be identical to '58.

20240611_163755.jpg

The body Shims won't matter for these measurements as they measure at frame points to ground at front and to rear axle.

Rich

[Thomas H.]

Re: 58 Body/Frame Shimming

It depends on whether your body fender lips are where they should be (sometimes they get out of whack from previous body work, fenders not hung correctly, etc....) and as Rich points out the suspension will also play a part in the measurement to the lips. If you get the suspension setup within spec per the AIM that Rich pointed to, then you can use the fender lips as a reference measurement.

When I did my 58, I did just that. Got the suspension sitting properly, used the lips as a guide but adjusted shims to get the gaps how I wanted. It all came out fine that way.

Others may have a better way, but this is how I went about it.

Tom

PS: My car was not at full curb weight when doing this, but I made sure the suspension / frame measurements were even relative to the dimensions in the AIM. Assuming that they would come down within spec as the car was assembled.

[Jason P.]

Re: 58 Body/Frame Shimming

Thanks. If the suspension is setup per spec etc.. Should the measurements from the top of the fender to the ground be the same for all 4 fender areas? Or should the front be higher or lower? I would imagine that for sure the front measurements should be the same and the back measurements should be the same (shouldn't have the left or right side be higher/lower than the other side)

Is my thinking correct?

Jason

[Jason P.]

Re: 58 Body/Frame Shimming

Also, I have not been able to find any pictures of how the shims were taped to the body. I have read that the tape should be 1/4 inch masking tape for a 58, is this correct?

Does anyone have any pictures they can share showing how this looked?

Also, I placed the rubber mounts that go on the frame but I can easily push some of them out from in between the frame and body. After everything is tightened down, should I be able to push these rubber mounts out like that? I would think they would fall out easily. I read where someone said to apply a little silicon to make the pads stick.

Jason

[Rod K.]

Re: 58 Body/Frame Shimming

Just my 2C worth, but typically there would be steel shims at each mounting location to take up the clearance you mentioned. The number of shims at each location could vary to fit each gap. I'd probably shim each gap to achieve zero clearance before tightening to prevent overstressing the fiberglass. If you need the steel shims I believe the usual suppliers (e.g., CC, Zip, et al) should have them.

[Richard M.]

Re: 58 Body/Frame Shimming

Ship Tape:

In my experiences the tape is wider than 1/4", but at a factory, I'd say that anything is possible.

Here are original shims from a '59 which have traces of tape residue. You can see it's likely about 3/4 to one inch wide.

20240506_111429.jpg


20240506_111449.jpg

20240506_111516.jpg

Tom's process is a good way to do the shimming. Also, the ribbed rubber pads were randomly placed, not necessary following the AIM. I've seen them in various positions. My advice is to glue them to the frame where it makes sense, under the seating area and trunk floor.

There may be gaps above them, such that when a large human sits in the car seats, they compress to keep the fiberglass from hitting the top of the frame.

20240506_074641.jpg

20240506_074657.jpg