Trunk Opening

[Rod K.]

Re: Trunk Opening

Just my 2c worth, but I think Joe is correct. Bumper (esp left) & bumper support bar is pushed in far enough it probably is causing the latch to be jammed. Pulling it back could relieve enough pressure to pop it. I don't quite see how key wouldn't work unless you did twist it too far in trying to open. The key should just turn about 90* CW to open, so maybe, if it's broken now, it's stuck in the open position. Drilling the lock cylinder will only result in destroying it, I don't think you'll gain anything else. Cylinder is held in place by a flat spring clip slid around the cyl body and the cyl really needs to be removed to allow access to the latch mech to turn it if key or link from the cyl to latch is broken.

I'd try pulling the bumper & see if you can pop the lid w/o further damage to the body work, then try Steven B's suggestion of the flat plate to jimmy the latch. Latch is two pieces of flat steel (1/8 ? thk) side by side at the center. You're looking at them on edge. Left pc is a fixed guide, rt piece is the latch lever you're trying to move to release.

Good luck.

[Mike E.]

[Dan D.]

Re: Trunk Opening

Okay, update. The trunk is now open, but it put up one hell-of-a-good fight. My biggest problem is I didn't know how it was made.

I destroyed both the lock and the latch. Rod was correct, it was just severely jammed. That's what I thought too, but not knowing how it worked, removing the lock let me at least see inside. I don't care too much about the lock and latch, its the fiberglass, especially the eyebrow.

With the lock out, I released the latch by using a screwdriver to push down the locking tab on the latch, but the pressure between the latch and the strike was so great it would still not release. I pried up hard on the lid with a bar which broke the bonding strip that forms the bottom lip of the lid. But that released the pressure enough to free the latch and the lid opened. It broke apart part of the glued seam of the bonding strip. That can be easily glued back in place and it will be as good as new - no damage.

The frame is not damaged, nor are the bumper irons that attach the bumpers to the frame. The horizontal cross channel piece that ties the bumpers together is bent real bad. It appears that it absorbed most of the energy, which was ideal. When I removed it the whole fiberglass surround returned to almost its original position and the lid fits almost as good as it did before. I should be able to get it to its original position now that the pressure off.

As Mike E. said, be careful of the eyebrow. That was my concern too, and other than a couple of small paint chips on the edge, it is untouched. I step drilled the lock out, as Mike Mc said, but it still spun some. The locating tab is worn some, but not obliterated, I should be able to repair it okay.

Had to do it over again, I probably could have saved both the lock and the latch. I tried doing what Steven B. suggested with a flat bar, but I don't think I tried hard enough. That may have still worked. All in retrospect. I'm just glad the damage wasn't any worse than it was.

What do you guys favor (brand and source) for mat and resin?

Thanks for everyone's help on this.

Dan D.

[Steven B.]

Re: Trunk Opening

Dan, glad it is open without too much damage and relatively easy repair.👍