Trailing Arm Question

[Duke W.]

Re: Trailing Arm Question

Paul-------


If you install the shim packs by driving in thickest shim on one side and tuck the shims down into the "pocket" in the frame, you really do not need the cotter pins. My original owner late 1969 had the frame holes for the cotter pins but never originally had the cotter pins installed. Some of my original shims were "2 hole" and some were slotted. I changed to all slotted fairly early on. Installed as I described, I never lost a shim in 200,000 miles.

I agree. I think the "missing/lost shim problem" is primarily due to improper installation. Few seem to know that the shims should be a light interference fit. In other words, the last shim, a thick one, should require light tapping with a small hammer to install and seat. Then properly torque the trailing arm nut to spec with the suspension at normal ride height, and the shims will likely stay there forever or until the toe in needs to be readjusted.

Duke

[Leif A.]

Re: Trailing Arm Question

JMHO, but I've always advocated for using the slotted shims to align the rear end (toe). Once the proper alignment is established, count the number and thickness of shims used on each side of both trailing arms. Remove the slotted shims and the trailing arm bolt. Insert the factory correct shims (with the holes on both ends) using the slotted shim count to establish the size and amount of correct shims. Reinsert and torque the bolt, insert cotter pin and you will NEVER lose a shim again...EVER. As long as the trailing arm bushings are sound and as often as most of these cars are driven, you may never need to get a toe adjustment again.

[Scott P.]

Re: Trailing Arm Question

Paul, the pics are from today, mostly self explanatory.
Well I tried to post 4 more pics but I cant seem to get it done. They were mostly the LH side of the car anyway.

Notice the drill bit will make its hole very close to the bottom of the double thickness so make sure you stay on the double thickness.

Be prepared to sharpen your bit half way through, even a new one.

Using that shim on the outside is a good idea, I will use it next time, using it should keep me from drilling into my finger.

The blue tape was to protect the paint but you see with it gone, no damage done.

The inside hole is a little tough for me because when you have a body off it seems the body is a little too far back and the drill
cannot get a straight shot at the shim hole. So put a thick shim there and use the hole as a guide.

Thats an interesting trailing arm on the above pics. Sure would like to see a good pic of it.

Paul, have fun with this project, one of those quick and easy but neat to do.

Scott

[Scott P.]

Re: Trailing Arm Question

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