Overheating right rear brake

[Patrick H.]

The 63 that I worked on is having problems with the right rear brake becoming warm. It seems to take 8-10 miles of driving for it to occur, as with my last 5 mile test I had no issues, and all 4 rims were the same temperature. It was first noted when taking the car to the alignment shop 2 weeks ago, the longest drive in the car to date at 8-9 miles each way.

The rear wheel bearings were redone by a well known restoration shop. All brake components are new, including wheel cylinder, springs, shoes and emergency brake cables. All 4 drums were turned.

When I took it apart after the alignment shop the right rear shoes had wear (evidence of contact) around most of the pad already, and the left (not problematic) side had wear to about 50% of the surface. The right drum was a bit tighter than the left on removal. I backed off the right rear adjuster quite a bit, and there was no contact between the shoes and the drum. The car was then driven a few miles with no issues and no heat. I did drive it forward and reverse in the driveway to work the adjusters.

Today the caretaker let me know that the right rear is again warm. It brakes straight and does not pull, and did not pull before the last adjustment.
Is there something else I should look at as to the cause? If the shoes are again too tight, is there a way to fix (?) this and prevent recurrence?

Thanks for any tips you may have.

[Paul Y.]

Re: Overheating right rear brake

I have had a wheel cylinder on a left front brake that was sucking air in and made the brakes too tight and over heat. I bled the air out and it got me home and after inspection the brake cylinder was rebuilt and rebled. Solved the problem. Hope it is that easy for you Patrick. Paul

[Bob J.]

Re: Overheating right rear brake

Were the rear rubber brake hoses replaced?

[Edward J.]

Re: Overheating right rear brake

Pat, the first step is remove drum and make sure the top of the shoes are sitting against the top anchor pin. sometimes if you try and over tighten the E/brake it will slightly pull shoes off the anchor pin at top.this maybe what’s happening with you. The way I do my adjustments are to back off the E/Brake all the way then make your shoe adjustment to slightly drag drum, the make your e/brake cable adjustment. Don’t try to make the cable pull to tight I like about 40/50% pull on the handle, then drive car to break in brake shoes in, then make a final check and adjustment. Another thing is the right cable being the longest and the most bends make sure it’s not hanging up. When I restored my 63 I was able to remove the cables without destroying the clips and I cleaned and greased the cables.I am not totally sold on repro cables or store brought cables.

[William B.]

Re: Overheating right rear brake

I had the same problem on my 63, the right rear hose was NOS, but the rubber had dried out on the inside of the hose. Once I removed the hose it was easy to blow through one way, turn it around and you could hardly blow through it, it acted like a flapper valve. Change both rear hoses.

[Patrick H.]

Re: Overheating right rear brake

All brake lines and brake hoses and master cylinder are new.
Everything on the chassis is new or rebuilt, other than the engine block.

[William B.]

Re: Overheating right rear brake

Mine were new also, but old NOS single crimp, chased problem for a while, till I finally removed hoses and blew through them. DO NOT always trust new,

[Joe L.]

Re: Overheating right rear brake

Mine were new also, but old NOS single crimp, chased problem for a while, till I finally removed hoses and blew through them. DO NOT always trust new,

William------


I have several NOS brake hoses, single crimp and double crimp [none for sale]. Would I ever actually use them on a car? NEVER. EVER.

[Patrick H.]

Re: Overheating right rear brake

Mine were new also, but old NOS single crimp, chased problem for a while, till I finally removed hoses and blew through them. DO NOT always trust new,

These are 2021 dated new hoses. I would suspect they would hold constant pressure if the hose failed internally.

[Bob J.]

Re: Overheating right rear brake

These are 2021 dated new hoses. I would suspect they would hold constant pressure if the hose failed internally.

Patrick, no doubt the hose will hold pressure, the problem is when there is an internal hose restriction so it won't release the pressure.
You never said exactly what brand you installed ............. my guess is RR hose or RR wheel cylinder not working properly, even if recently changed
Bob J

[Patrick H.]

Re: Overheating right rear brake

Patrick, no doubt the hose will hold pressure, the problem is when there is an internal hose restriction so it won't release the pressure.
You never said exactly what brand you installed ............. my guess is RR hose or RR wheel cylinder not working properly, even if recently changed
Bob J

Raybestos wheel cylinders.
Hoses were from Paragon; I think they are Goodyear.

[Richard M.]

Re: Overheating right rear brake

Patrick,

I remember Frank D. Had a similar problem. Maybe related.

His issue turned out to be cables. You have new but is it possible one is defective? Other good ideas in the thread too.

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthread.php?125793-63-drum-brakes-dragging&p=874241#post874241

Rich

[Pat H.]

Re: Overheating right rear brake

Patrick's problem sound a lot the one I'm experiencing on my 59. The right side seems to be okay, but the left side shoes appear to be heat damaged (cracked). Last summer the left wheel would lock up under hard braking, so I slackened off the adjuster and the problem went away. I just recently checked the rears again and the left side is very worn compared to the right side and I've ordered new shoes for the rear. Could the brake cylinder be the problem. There is no evidence of a leaking brake fluid.

[Patrick H.]

Re: Overheating right rear brake

Here's what I found yesterday.

The brake drum measures within spec, so it's not too large inside.
The wheel cylinder links appear to be extending out too far on the right rear, and can't retract back in. Given this, the brake pad stays applied and the drum warms up.

Currently it has ACDelco brand links and a Raybestos wheel cylinder.
Before I randomly purchase other links and/or wheel cylinders does anyone know of a proven wheel cylinder/link combination that works?
The left rear (and the front wheels) have the same brand combination yet work flawlessly.

Thanks.

PH

[Harry S.]

Re: Overheating right rear brake

Patrick, I had a similar problem. I replaced the wheel cylinder and polished the pins. I also noticed that my backing plate was not torqued all the way and it move when the brakes were applied.