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Re: 69 wiper door assembly bushings
Kenneth------
The bushings of which you speak were never available separately from GM. They were available only as part of the GM #3953000 control assembly which was discontinued without supercession in November, 1983.
If anyone in the Corvette world could supply them now, I'd say that would be the good Dr. Rebuild. Otherwise, check industrial vendors like McMaster-Carr or Grainger for nylon bushings which meet the size/configuration specifications.
One more question: why do you think you need to replace these bushings? From what I can see of the one in your photo, it appears to be in pretty good condition to me. I think trying to disassemble this assembly is likely to cause more problems than benefits.In Appreciation of John Hinckley -
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Re: 69 wiper door assembly bushings
Did you apply lubricant to see if that keeps it from binding?Comment
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Re: 69 wiper door assembly bushings
Yes I sprayed silicone but didn’t really help. Do you think I can shim it on one side to compensate for the binding caused by the loose bushings?Comment
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Re: 69 wiper door assembly bushings
Try Dr. Rebuild he may have what you want. <br />
Also note that mine has alot of play in it as well. so by design I think theyre loose. If you disconnect your vac can and remove it can you manually push and pull on the actuator rod with it opening and closing ok.
Maybe the actuator rod is not adjusted correctly and it is moving to far and causing the bindComment
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Re: 69 wiper door assembly bushings
Kenneth,
Could these be what your looking for from Corvette Central?
If so by two kits so you have spares incase you inevitably drop one or two down into the abyss(like I do with the wiper door bushings).
Thinking out loud here...Wonder if grinding off the weld then (precision press) drilling and tapping could work. Secure with good quality SS304 hardware, star or split lock, blue loctite etc. Don't want them to come loose. Fasteners will allow future service.
Use the right hardware such as a shouldered grade 5 thin head hex or thin head socket head fastener with the appropriate external star or split lock washer SS304.
McMaster Carr will have many choices. Ill bet they have Teflon bushings too.
Order a bunch of different fasteners and experiment until you find one that works....then drill and tap. I recommend using blue removable Loctite on clean threads with the lock washers.
Re-welding could be tricky not melting the bushings, (unless I'm not interpreting the mechanism in my mind correctly) been a while since I dove into my wiper door. Re-welding could be much simpler. Just wick the heat.
I use a light coating of red grease on the wiper door bushings.
These doors are a PITA. When they work well, they are just cool.
Hey Joe, curiosity question. What do the dashes ------ mean after you address a poster? Pause for thought? Google wasn't any help lol. Just curious nothing more.Comment
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Re: 69 wiper door assembly bushings
Joe-
The bushings you posted from CC are to mount the vacuum canister on its bracket. CC sells a kit just for the assembly linkage with the bushings and rivets to repair 6 levers for $27. You need 3 kits to do all 18 levers. I have 3 kits coming next week. I thought I might as well replace these at the same time. These are the smaller bushings than the ones that are on the ends of the rod.
I found the larger bushings for the ends of the rod from McMasters. They are nylon to fit a 3/8” shaft and a 1/2” housing. That’s the exact same measurements I took off from bushings on the control assembly. I have 3 bushings on the way….$12 includes tax and shipping.
I think the way to do this repair would be to drill a small hole through the bracket and rod so I can pin it with a roll pin, grind off the weld then remove the bracket and old bushing. Replace with the new bushing, the bracket and roll pin. This way the bracket gets replaced in the exact position. I can spot weld the end to the bracket or just keep the bracket secured to the rod with the pin. Probably be best not to spot weld the end in case I need to service it again. The pin should be plenty strong.
I have the assembly out of the car so I could examine it easier. Interestingly I found that the slop is between the bracket housing and the outside of the bushing. The inside surface of the bushing and rod appear to have a decent fit. This suggests that the metal housing is worn out or was oversized from the manufacturer. I find it hard to imagine that the metal housing would wear out faster than the bushing.
After careful caliper measurements I believe the old bushings are within the dimension specs that McCalister lists for the new bushings. So if the old bushings are the same diameter as the new bushings then why change them out…Maybe I just need to build up the ID of the metal housing. I could
JP weld the bushing in the housing. This should work since the rod should rotate inside the bushing. Or maybe I could start by filling in the space around the housing and the bushing with silicone and see if that works…
What do you think?Comment
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Re: 69 wiper door assembly bushings
Bairs has anything you need to repair or replace the 68-82 Headlights at 1 814 683-4223.Comment
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Re: 69 wiper door assembly bushings
Hi Kenneth
You don't mention if the wiper assembly has been taken out recently????? If taken out as per your picture then you must reset the installing the system back to factory. Right now it seems to be a bow causing the binding by the two ends pulled into the firewall. I restored my wiper assembly on my 71 and 6 times removed and trying to make it fit. I had that binding issue. The wiper assembly was bowed as I figured it out later.
take off the left and right side nuts attached to the wiper threads.
Make sure your mounting via the pod is spot on with or without shims as a center point.
Once the pod is mounted the wiper assembly is straight. then you tighten all the screws. That is the focal point.
From there you mount the Z bar and make sure you are not pulling it in. Remember there is also shims needed if you are pulling on it, Along with shims you have the rubber gasket and dumb dumb,
Once you mount the Z bracket
go to left side and mount the end of the wiper assembly with the two screws with the nuts and make sure you are not pulling on the end. If so then you need shims on the inside of cowel, Basically you just want the two ends to be straight when mounted. Same goes with the right side. Make sure the wiper assembly mounting end is not pulled into the firewall cowel. if so shims and at the end rubber gasket and dumb dumb
I have original wiper assemblies with the plastic bushing and none are worn out.
Hope this helps
GrantComment
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Re: 69 wiper door assembly bushings
Joe,
Bucking the system are ya...lol. I like your style.
You are definitely an original and we all appreciate your wealth of knowledge.
Kennith & Grant,
Great advice.
Great informative thread.
DaveComment
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Re: 69 wiper door assembly bushings
You cannot JB weld the end, it must be stick weld and you need to make a spacer between plastic bushing and assembly
Spot weld it ti try and disperse heat, do not weld continuously as the center rod will get hot and will melt the plastic bushing
You must also make sure everything is lined up as per original or you will weld it in wrong position and will not fit
Reason for jb weld will not work because of the torque at the end of bracket
It will just shear off the first time you attempt to lift the wiper door and back to square oneComment
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