C1 purchase, what to watch for?

[Richard E.]

I'm considering purchase of a 57 Corvette; it is not an award-winning show car and not being sold as numbers matching. Having only seen photographs thus far it appears "decent". I will be looking at the car in person soon. I have never owned a C1 Corvette (I have owned C2 Corvettes for over 45 years). I would appreciate any comments regarding what to watch for on the 57. I realize this is a "loaded" question and cannot possibly be covered in great detail. I am hoping for some high-level comments regarding what to watch for such as typical locations for stress cracks in the body, common chassis problems, common mechanical issues, warning signs of larger problems to watch for in a visual inspection and test drive. Thanks in advance for your comments!

[Thomas S.]

Re: C1 purchase, what to watch for?

I don’t own a C1. I do own a 63 convertible that is number matching, and very original or repaired with original parts. It’s not a show car although it could be but not a high number. That said, and others will surely chime in, I believe a numbers matching car (engine, trans, etc) should be the starting point for any old car because it can’t be replicated. I also believe the having at least those few original components would make the car more sellable down the road, even though that might be the furthest thing on your mind at the moment

No hate mail please, but a car that has been kept in correct condition is likely a reflection on the owners appreciation of the “breed” which can also translate into a better maintained vehicle. The opposite can also be true.

[Mark E.]

Re: C1 purchase, what to watch for?

I can't help directly, but Google "C1 Corvette Buyer's Guode". There's lotsof content from a variety of sources which should help.
Your experience with C2 and cars in general will help you, especially since you're already familiar with fiberglass bodies.

Thomas's comments are a bit unfair. These cars are over 60 uears old, and for much of their life replacing the engine and transmission with new or "remanufactured" was considered one of the best (and more expensive) ways for a conscientious owner to repair their car.
"Numbers matching" wasn't part of the lexicon, and hence not a consideration.

[Thomas S.]

Re: C1 purchase, what to watch for?

It was an opinion and not meant to be unfair. For clarity, my point was that if you have a choice between a numbers matching car vrs one that is not, go for the numbers.

The majority of the comments on this site are about the importance of originality which again, was what the basis for the opinion. If the engine or any other major component had been replaced, or the car had been Frankinsteined, there's no point in giving advise or comments about those components because you don't have a baseline.

Anyway that was my point - not meant to be unfair, again just an opinion

[Kenneth B.]

Re: C1 purchase, what to watch for?

If NOT looking for a NCRS type 57 Of course frame rot body damage paint interior and mechanics are important. Having all the gages & lights wipers radio all working. All these repairs cost a lot of money no matter what the seller says.

[John F.]

Re: C1 purchase, what to watch for?

Look at in person, or have someone inspect for you. Check frame, body mounts, suspension. Test drive it, upshift & downshift, brake hard and see if it pulls to either side. Does exhaust have blue or white smoke? Rear main seal leaking? Any other leaks oil or antifreeze? Two top car? Check for dried out or missing weatherstriping. Door and hood fitment, Cracks or checking in paint. Any history or paperwork? Any receipts or parts that have been replaced? That is just a few things. Pictures would really help & others will chime in.

[Bob R.]

[Todd H.]

Re: C1 purchase, what to watch for?

I'm not the '56-'57 expert that some here are, but my current '57 is my eighth in 45 years of owning Corvettes.

Same as C2s... the big hazard items are frame rust, especially in the back half, and bad body work. '57s that have been run hard can experience frame cracking beneath the motor mounts. Late VIN '57s have the under dash bracing that helps prevent door sag. None of my cars have had the bracing, and they did not have door sag, but a car with the bracing is probably desirable. Make sure it has a '57 radio with wonderbar on the seek bar. Any missing parts that you want to add are going to be expensive. Occasionally they're unavailable. C1s that have not had their kingpins greased regularly may need to have them replaced. C1 steering should be as loose or hard as many cars that I have looked at over the years. Loose, hard to turn C1 steering is a sign of owners that do not know much about it. It MIGHT be easy to fix, and it might not.

Above all, don't forget to look for the correct VIN plate in the driver's door jam. These often get lost in lengthy restorations. A car with no VIN plate is a non-starter for me. They can be replaced, but it's a big headache with lots of risk and legal questions.

[Gary C.]

Re: C1 purchase, what to watch for?

Richard,

FWIW C1's are generally not meant for big guys. Steering wheel to close and top not tall enough for anyone over 6ft with top up.

Get a later VIN number above 4400, which has door bracing to keep from sagging and under dash braces.

Follow John and Kenneth's suggestions. A lot of good close up high resolution photos might save you a trip.

Gary
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[Richard E.]

Re: C1 purchase, what to watch for?

Gentlemen,
Thank you for the information, I appreciate all of the comments. I was not aware of the dash bracing, very interesting. That is the kind of information I am especially interested in, items problematic with the 57's. Frame and glass damage I am somewhat aware of, I know it is sometimes hard to detect. I expect I will not get a chance to inspect the car on a hoist unfortunately. I did drive some later model C1's (nothing older than 59) when I was a teen. The cars were owned by my older brother at the time, I was much lighter and thinner, possibly I won't fit in this car! There was no NCRS when I purchased my first Corvette, and "matching numbers" only mattered at a casino slot machine. At my age I'm not as concerned about the long-term investment aspect, it's more about some casual driving and conversation enjoyment. I do not want to throw money away either, however.
Regards to all, and thanks again.

[Chris S.]

Re: C1 purchase, what to watch for?

Richard
1 - take some one who knows C1s and or restores them - look for body damage - Rear corners and the front end - Body repairs and replacement panels are expensive to install and body work and paint
2 - Inspect the frame as stated above - especially the rear crossmember - they are prone to rusting out - check for collision damage at the front frame horns and replacement of the front frame horns
Def check the numbers - block, heads, distributor, starter, generator.
Check for Non original parts like aftermarket radios, tachs, etc.... it can be expensive to replace
Inspect the car in person
If they wont let you see it and spend time with it - walk
Take a C1 guy with you

[Richard E.]

Re: C1 purchase, what to watch for?

Thanks everyone for the great input. I was able to view the car finally, but unfortunately, I had no C1 experts to assist me. I can fit in the car (somewhat to my surprise), but 25 years ago the fit would have been much better! It is not a matching numbers car, but very clean and appears quite complete. I would say the frame possibly has been replaced or repaired very well as it looked a bit too nice to me. My major concern is the non-original VIN. The VIN prefix is DRF, which to the best of my research suggests the car was possibly re-titled in California at one time. If this is true, I would expect that a California DMV "VIN tag" would be affixed to the car somewhere. Unfortunately, this is not the case. I would appreciate learning of any experience's persons may have with this type of VIN. The car is now located in the Midwest and the owner has a proper title in his name which I was able to view. I would anticipate the non-original VIN devalues the car considerably (25-50%?) even though it is definitely show worthy. Your additional thoughts are appreciated.

[Todd H.]

Re: C1 purchase, what to watch for?

So the DRF & number are on the title, but nowhere on the car that you can see?

[Gary C.]

Re: C1 purchase, what to watch for?

Richard,

Once upon a time California used to register the Engine Number on their pink slip. And perhaps the DRF was issued due to a non original motor.

Is there a VIN tag on the driver's side door frame below the top hinge?

If there's no VIN tag there that matches the VIN on the title, then I'd walk away.

Gary
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[Richard E.]

Re: C1 purchase, what to watch for?

There is no VIN tag on the driver's side door frame below the top hinge, the holes are there where I believe the factory VIN originally attached.
The DRF with number is on the title, but nowhere on the car that I could see or that the current owner could show me. If the title originated in California, would it be possible to trace ownership history through the California DMV? Would it be possible for the California DMV to provide a replacement VIN tag? This is probably more effort than I wish to get involved with, but I will share comments with the current owner to assist him in obtaining addition information about the car. Thanks again everyone for your comments.