New Member Getting Started 66 BB

[Paul O.]

New member getting started on this NCRS site looking for some direction:

In the process of a rebuild of '66 Big Block L72 engine (code IK) and in need of some replacement parts like bell housing; oil pan; water pump; etc. What's the best way to communicate these part requests?

Purchased the car a few years ago thru a credible source who knew previous owner (now deceased) who did the frame-off restoration 15+ years ago. The car was presented as original matching number 427/425 engine with correct dated accessories, which appear correct for most part including matching vin M22 transmission. Unfortunately no documentation available with car other than owners manual, and no owner history other than deceased owner's name.

Trim tag shows a 1/04/66 build date. I'd like to find parts that precede that date; however I'm guessing a tall order at this point and wondering how important anyway considering no documentation to confirm the cars original configuration. In this situation am I better off trying to keep the car as 'period correct' as possible using correct part #'s with any '66 date code, or should I hold out to try and find correct dated parts that precede car's build date?

Already decided on some internal upgrades to make the car more drivable (i.e. roller cam & hydraulic lifters and lower compression pistons). It's a sweet car that I will continue to enjoy either way. Just trying to decide how far to take this.

Appreciate any direction the experts can give me.

[Don H.]

Re: New Member Getting Started

Hello Paul
welcome to the club and the web forums. I’ve moved your thread off the Help Board and over to the Tech Discussion Board. You’ll get lot of good advice here. I suggest you get you car running and enjoying it, while you search for parts to make it as correct as possible. You can use the Classified Ads forum to run an ad asking for the parts you need. The ad is free to members and renewable every 30 days.
Once again, thanks for joining up.

[Paul O.]

Re: New Member Getting Started 66 BB

Thanks Don for reposting to the right spot.

[Tim G.]

Re: New Member Getting Started 66 BB

Paul, please make sure the shop that handles the rebuild DOES NOT DECK THE MOTOR. A Dallas member posted the results of a rebuilder not listening to him about two years ago and took the numbers off his block. Make them sign a document that they will not deck the block. It may sound strange, but you may want to post pictures of the pad so members can offer input before you rebuild the motor. Since you will be spending considerable funds on the car, you may want to confirm the originality of the motor. Just my opinion.

[Patrick H.]

Re: New Member Getting Started 66 BB

...which appear correct for most part including matching vin M22 transmission.

Are you sure it's an original M-22?
Those are extremely rare.
Factory installation would likely have been an M-21.

I think we'd all like to see photos of the engine pad. There is some legend regarding the IK suffix.

If it's a real IK and a real M-22, I sure wouldn't change to roller lifters and lower compression pistons.

[Mark F.]

Re: New Member Getting Started 66 BB

Paul,

The NCRS Driveline is an excellent source of parts for sale and knowledge from folks who have them (but don't always necessarily see posts here on the TDB).

If you don't already have one, you should get a '66 Technical Information and Judging Guide from the NCRS Store.
Also get a Judging Reference Manual (JRM) if you plan to have it judged down the road.

As for date codes on parts you may need to buy, you might as well try to keep them within the limits specified in the TIMJG. Nothing should be dated later than the Body Build Date; and as Tim says (if your engine is original to the car), nothing on the engine should be dated after the engine assembly stamp on the engine pad. BTW - what is the engine pad date and does the VIN derivative agree with your VIN Plate?

good luck

[James W.]

Re: New Member Getting Started 66 BB

Paul,

Besides the NCRS Drive-Line and the on-line classified ad, there is a NCRS Corvette parts classified ad group for NCRS memebers only on Face Book. I've used all three with good success.

James

[Paul O.]

Re: New Member Getting Started 66 BB

I'm sure you're right about the trans, it's probably M-21. Didn't realize were 2 close ratio Muncie trans when first looked it up. The M-22 was my assumption... it wasn't sold to me as such. Now that I'm looking at this closer though it appears all 3 casting numbers are same on both transmissions so how does one know which is which?

I'm gonna try to post some pics here of trans and engine pad to clarify. I also have pics of other 2 trans cast numbers and a gear tag number if needed to confirm. Appreciate any further input. thanks

10394.jpg10378.jpg10376.jpg10355.jpg

[Patrick H.]

Re: New Member Getting Started 66 BB

If you could take a photo closer to the stamp pad and "straight" on the photo rather than slanted, that would be great.

[Bill M.]

Re: New Member Getting Started 66 BB

Paul when i had my 67 327 shortblock rebuilt i used a machine shop that specialized in Classic and race car motors. I made sure that he was aware of how important original stamp pads were to Corvette owners. which i really did not have to tell him. Check with your local chapter and use a recomended shop. Your pad looks great to me but i am no expert.

[David H.]

Re: New Member Getting Started 66 BB

If you could take a photo closer to the stamp pad and "straight" on the photo rather than slanted, that would be great.

Attached rotated and cropped engine pad image from OPs prior post.

As requested: Straight on and sharp image would help.

Dave

TI214IR 1966 .jpg

[Mike B.]

Re: New Member Getting Started 66 BB

Original M22 transmissions have the lower boss tapped for an additional drain plug. Here's my '66 M21 without the lower plug tapped and a shot of a supposed '67 M22 with the lower plug installed. Paul your side transmission shot was cropped off and I couldn't see your lower boss area.

Here's a quote from the '66 Technical Information Manual and Judging Guide. "M22 transmissions are extremely identical to M20 and M21, except that a boss on the lower right front of the transmission case was drilled and tapped for a special square head drain plug."

Pretty sure that '66-'67 M22 input splines have no grooves? I've read this before but I'm not 100% sure about this. What about it guys? Is this an additional way to I.D. an M22? Your photo was a little fuzzy but I saw no grooves in your input spline. M20 input splines have 2 grooves and M21 input splines have 1 groove. Mike

'66 M21.jpg'67 M22.jpg

[Bill B.]

Re: New Member Getting Started 66 BB

While I am not an expert, I have read that pre 1969 transmissions unfortunately do not have the suffix letter, denoting the transmission type (A = M20, B = M21, C = M22).

I understand the later years input spine shaft grooves cannot be counted on to identify, as GM started to save on machining operations. Also, the 1963 thru 1965 M20s did not have any grooves on the input shaft. Also, the drain plug is also a good indicator on the earlier transmissions, but again, not for 1969 and later years, as the later castings appeared to all having drain plugs tapped and installed.

Here is a good reference I found on the web: Muncie 4-Speed Identification Guide - Chevy DIY

[Paul O.]

Re: New Member Getting Started 66 BB

Wow, thanks for all the detail. I'll get a closer look and better pics of engine pad and trans next time I'm at the machine shop which is a couple hours away. Guy I'm using does a lot of high performance work and knows how important the engine pad numbers are on this car. Thanks again

[Philip A.]

Re: New Member Getting Started 66 BB

New member getting started on this NCRS site looking for some direction:

In the process of a rebuild of '66 Big Block L72 engine (code IK) and in need of some replacement parts like bell housing; oil pan; water pump; etc. What's the best way to communicate these part requests?

Purchased the car a few years ago thru a credible source who knew previous owner (now deceased) who did the frame-off restoration 15+ years ago. The car was presented as original matching number 427/425 engine with correct dated accessories, which appear correct for most part including matching vin M22 transmission. Unfortunately no documentation available with car other than owners manual, and no owner history other than deceased owner's name.

Trim tag shows a 1/04/66 build date. I'd like to find parts that precede that date; however I'm guessing a tall order at this point and wondering how important anyway considering no documentation to confirm the cars original configuration. In this situation am I better off trying to keep the car as 'period correct' as possible using correct part #'s with any '66 date code, or should I hold out to try and find correct dated parts that precede car's build date?

Already decided on some internal upgrades to make the car more drivable (i.e. roller cam & hydraulic lifters and lower compression pistons). It's a sweet car that I will continue to enjoy either way. Just trying to decide how far to take this.

Appreciate any direction the experts can give me.

It's you car and your money, so do as you please. However, that is a desirable and valuable car/engine and rebuilding the motor as described will decrease value to future prospective buyers. Yes, it is "undoable" but the cost to do that will be the devaluation after your expenditure. For making the car more drivable I would consider another block, long block, or engine to preserve the original engine.