The "CLANK"

[Michael G.]

[John P.]

Re: The "CLANK"

Hello Michael, it sounds like starter problems related to the solenoid engaging the drive to the flywheel (the clank) then not transferring the power to the armature. This could be caused by a bad contact disc in the solenoid or an open in the armature or field coils. Sometimes you can repair the solenoid by dismantling the unit and reversing the contact disc (washer) and cleaning the contacts.

[Michael G.]

Re: The "CLANK"

Thanks John. Reworking starters is best done by someone who knows what they're doing. I know just enough to be dangerous.

Is anyone working on starters these days?

[Joe L.]

Re: The "CLANK"

Thanks John. Reworking starters is best done by someone who knows what they're doing. I know just enough to be dangerous.

Is anyone working on starters these days?

Michael------


Starters are easy to disassemble, inspect, and repair/rebuild. It's even possible to build a basically completely new starter using only the original frame (the part with the "numbers") and nose with all brand new internal parts. So, one can have the "best of both worlds". And no judges will ever know the difference.

It's even possible to convert an original standard torque starter to a high torque but that change will be externally discernible.

[Leif A.]

Re: The "CLANK"

Sounds to me like the gear on the end of the solenoid plunger is "clanking" against the flywheel instead of meshing with the teeth of the flywheel. Then, after two or three attempts the gears mesh and then, as you said, the car starts and runs fine. Possible, though not likely, that the two bolts holding the starter in place have somewhat loosened allowing the starter to slightly drop and the solenoid gear and flywheel teeth are not aligning correctly.
If you're not comfortable and/or unable to remove the starter yourself, any competent mechanic should be able to solve this issue fairly quickly and inexpensively. If it's what I think, it will be readily noticeable when the teeth are examined.

[Michael G.]

[Mark F.]

Re: The "CLANK"

Thanks guys. This was really a pretty severe clank, shook the whole car...

[Michael G.]

[Edward J.]

Re: The "CLANK"

Mike, try to turn the 5/8 head crank bolt on harmonic balancer to see if engine will spin. if you can rotate freely then is not a hydraulic lock situation. If it does not turn stop there and pull spark plugs and then try to rotate, see if there’s fuel loaded in the cylinder or anti freeze.I have seen a hydraulic lock situation and it will cause the starter to make a noise when engaging.at the point your at now don’t use the starter again until you know it’s not a hydraulic lock problem. Good luck.

[Dan L.]

Re: The "CLANK"

The starter may just need to to be shimmed.
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[Michael G.]

[Bill B.]

Re: The "CLANK"

Michael,

From an Electrical perspective, did you notice if you saw any lights severely dim while you had the ignition in the start position when the "clank" occurred?

If so, could indicate a possible hydraulic lock, where the starter is applying torque but not turning, thus a very high current power draw from the battery. (causing very noticeable lamp dim)

If not, then as others above have indicated above, the solenoid is most likely pushing the gear into the flywheel, (the "clank") but the starter is not turning because the starter motor electrical contactor, internal to the solenoid, is not making contact, thus no power to turn the starter motor.

[Timothy B.]

Re: The "CLANK"

Michael,

My 67 300hp engine did the same thing about five years ago and it scared the heck out of me because I thought the engine had locked.

Turned out to be the starter so I overhauled it with NOS GM parts including new bushings in the noise, brushes etc., all good now. After you remove the starter it may become clear where the clunk came from.

[Michael G.]

[Leif A.]

Re: The "CLANK"

Thanks Tim and Bill,

I did a bit of a deep dive into starter videos and now am quite comfortable that I should try and re-build it. Maybe though, I’ll first mess with one of the ‘63 starters I have that both need re-builds, to get some hands-on before tackling the ‘65.

Michael,
Before doing that, re-read Mark's comments in post #7. If the flywheel is missing some teeth, you'll get that same sound if/when the starter is attempting to engage the flywheel. If the starter is engaging an area of the flywheel with missing teeth, there is nothing there for the starter to engage. Carefully inspect the entire circumference of the flywheel looking for any missing/damaged teeth before rebuilding/replacing your starter and/or solenoid.