C2 standard lock and key 340HP.

[Richard S.]

I am looking for some information on my original type lock and key. I have an issue with my existing lock mechanism and am looking to replace same. I would appreciate any pictures and or information on what the key should look like (both sides). I have a number of my old keys from previous lock assemblies (5 position well worn. But not sure what the original looks like.
I am also not sure if the ignition, glove box and spare tire keys were the same style.
My existing ignition key lock face is chrome and has one hole in the face as I believe my original assembly had. I will be replacing my door, glove box and spare tire lock with the new key.
Any pictures of correct key appreciated.

Rich

[Gary B.]

[Harry S.]

Re: C2 standard lock and key 340HP.

Rich, I see it's a 63. The 340 hp is a give away. Is it a late or early 63, last 5 of the VIN will help.

As you know on a 63, one key opens everything. Typically you will find a key code on the key mechanism in the locks. Pull the glove box lock and record the code. If your key still has the knock-out inserted, compare the lock codes against the code on the key. If they match, they should be original. Just have a key recut that matches the configuration of your key. A local locksmith should be able to do that quickly with the code you give him.

[Richard S.]

Re: C2 standard lock and key 340HP.

Sorry about that 63 early build
Rich

[Richard S.]

Re: C2 standard lock and key 340HP.

Harry
Sorry, the key nor lock is original that I presently have for the car. I had the car since 65 and have several sets of keys and locks. None now original. I will be starting off from scratch. I was thinking of buying a set for ignition, glove box and spare from Paragon. That is why I was trying to understand how the keys should look. The older keys I have most of which are well worn with little detail. I would appreciate any info on the key detail.

Thanks
Rich

[Gary B.]

Re: C2 standard lock and key 340HP.

Rich,

When you say it’s an early build, it is before Jan 1 of 1963? Or after Jan 1?

Gary

PS Are you planning on having the car judged?

[Harry S.]

Re: C2 standard lock and key 340HP.

Rich, don't know if this works for you..... https://www.ebay.com/itm/16530199701...UAAOSwlNRh8UAs

If you have a very early 63, there was no drain hole in the spare tire lock.

Also, the one hole in your ignition switch bezel is correct. Two holes is a passenger car.

[Jeffrey S.]

Re: C2 standard lock and key 340HP.

Rich,
In 1963 and later (I don't know if it was after Jan. 1 or the whole model year) the key was an octogonal shape as before but the difference was that just below the right end of the Briggs & Stratton logo was an "R" in a circle. These are much easier to find than the previous ones without the "R". The knockouts may have had different size holes from year to year or even within a single year. Of the hundreds of uncut keys for these years that I have, the hole size varies.
Jeff

[Richard S.]

Re: C2 standard lock and key 340HP.

Gary
Second week Dec 62
Rich

[Bob R.]

[Gary B.]

Re: C2 standard lock and key 340HP.

The images below show the difference between a tire lock and keys for an early ‘63 and a not-early ‘63. An original, restored tire lock for early ‘63 is at the left, with its original key shown beneath at the left, with the key code 8857. The other side of a new, uncut blank is shown to its right, just so you can see both sides of the key. Note that the lock does not have the 1/4” weep hole on the shelf below where surface with the face cap where the key inserts. My research suggests the “no weep hole” lock was used for the first several months of the ‘63 model year, transitioning to the weep hole lock on cars built in December 1962 and January of 1963.


The lock at the right in the first photo is an original lock for non-early ‘63s. Note the 1/4” weep hole. The original key for that lock is beneath it at the left, with the key code 8046. Again, I’ve placed a new, uncut key blank just to the right to show the other side of the key.


The second photo shows a close up of the top side of the early ‘63 tire lock, with no weep hole on the lower shelf.


The third photo shows the underside of the non-weep hole lock, which has the telltale originality features of three circular dimples and the B1 embossing (hard to read). (On reproduction locks, the B1 embossing is absent and the circular dimples are faint or missing entirely.) Note that this lock should have an anti-rattle pad glued to the bottom (see the pad in the next photo), but I have not installed the pad yet.


(Another observation about reproduction tire locks for ‘63-‘65 is that they are painted on all side, including the bottom, which is incorrect. And the painting of those lock is essentially perfect, given them a near powder coated look. The painting is way too nice. No Corvette tire lock was ever painted on the bottom side. Also, on most repro tire locks the large, retractable pin that captures the head of the tire tub catch bolt has several circular groves around its cylindrical surface, which is not correct. The pin should have a smooth periphery.)


The next photo shows the underside of the not-early lock, which has its original anti rattle pad in place. I think the JG says the use of the anti-rattle pad was changed to the use of a rubber boot near VIN 12,500. All ’63 tire locks up to that VIN should have the anti-rattle pad.


The next photo shows a closeup of the original key for the early tire lock, with key code 8857. The main thing to note is the lack of the registered trademark symbol, an upper case R inside a small circle. These are often referred to a “no-R” keys.


The last photo shows a close up of the original key for the not-early tire lock with the key code 8046. Note the trademark symbol below the right end of the horizontal “log” motif in line with the number 6 in the key code. Pete Lindahl and I both believed that the registered trademark symbol was legally required to appear on keys starting on January 1, 1963. Whether all cars after Jan 1, 1963 had keys with the registered trademark symbol I can’t say.


One last word about the anti-rattle pad. Long Island Corvette used to sell the pad, but it was not 100% correct. The last owner of LIC, Kim Cohen, told me their repro pad was die cut from foam rubber sheet, but LIC did not do the final step of cutting a bevel along one side. Kim sent me a sketch showing the needed bevel cut, which is not that difficult to add. I assume ZIP sells or will sell the LIC pad, but I’m nearly positive it will still lack the needed bevel cut.


Gary

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[Richard S.]

Re: C2 standard lock and key 340HP.

Gary
Many thanks for all these details. I actually have some old keys like those shown but not sure when and what car I used them with. But this detail provides me the information I need to now search for a set of keys and lock assembly. I have purchased many items from LIC and others. Now I need to spend some time and look at what inventory each might have. Is there anything to some detail I heard about an R on any of the keys with a circle or not? Do you happen to know if the ignition switch sold at the vett store suppliers are compatible with any of the GM keys or need I buy ignition switch from the supplier of the keys?
Many thanks again and to the others who responded to my request for information. Your information was what I had hoped for.
Rich

[Gary B.]

Re: C2 standard lock and key 340HP.

[Harry S.]

Re: C2 standard lock and key 340HP.

This key came with my 63, 24 years ago. Probably a reproduction, GM on both sides.

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[Harry S.]

Re: C2 standard lock and key 340HP.

Rich, the ignition switch in a 63 is PN 1116635. It's a one year only part. The lock mechanism that you insert the key into, inserts into the ignition switch.

The pictures Gary posted should give you a good idea of the characteristics for the key you need, early or late. The locks themselves can all be keyed by a locksmith, so one key opens all.