T3's- best way to go? - NCRS Discussion Boards

T3's- best way to go?

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  • Garry B.
    Very Frequent User
    • January 1, 1991
    • 660

    T3's- best way to go?

    For judging purposes only- original T3 bulbs, GM Restoration Parts....or other?
    Garry Barnes #18531
    '67 Lynndale Blue Coupe- National TF, BG
    ​'67 Sunfire Yellow Coupe- 4 Star Bowtie,


  • Harry S.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • July 31, 2002
    • 5293

    #2
    Re: T3's- best way to go?

    Originally posted by Garry Barnes (18531)
    For judging purposes only- original T3 bulbs, GM Restoration Parts....or other?
    On a C2, restoration bulbs if they do not have DOT on them. It's not a big point hit if DOT is there.

    Now operations, C2, there are 25 points for bulbs. There are 6 functions on the 4 bulbs. 25//6 = 4 points per failure.

    It's your call. I've seen original T3 test OK prior to operations, they blow during operations. I used original T3 during my operations. One bulb blew when I was turning them off.


    Comment

    • Mike M.
      NCRS Past President
      • May 31, 1974
      • 8381

      #3
      Re: T3's- best way to go?

      i've had similar experience with originals as harry describes. lately i've been applying a thin film of silicone caulking around the back of the buld where they can suck air and then blow within seconds if they do suck in air. seems to help but who knows. mike

      Comment

      • Harry S.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • July 31, 2002
        • 5293

        #4
        Re: T3's- best way to go?

        Yes, hi temperature orange silicone works well....

        IMG_3580.jpg


        Comment

        • Bert L.
          Very Frequent User
          • April 30, 1977
          • 426

          #5
          Re: T3's- best way to go?

          Mike & Harry- Good tip on the silicone guys, thankyou .....

          Comment

          • Garry B.
            Very Frequent User
            • January 1, 1991
            • 660

            #6
            Re: T3's- best way to go?

            Please explain to me the issue that the silicone application resolves. I have not heard of this before.
            Garry Barnes #18531
            '67 Lynndale Blue Coupe- National TF, BG
            ​'67 Sunfire Yellow Coupe- 4 Star Bowtie,


            Comment

            • Bob R.
              Extremely Frequent Poster
              • June 30, 2002
              • 1595

              #7
              Re: T3's- best way to go?

              In The old bulbs the seal between the metal socket and the glass can dry out allowing air to get at the filament. The bulb will then fail. There is no assurance the silicone will actually help but it might be worth trying.

              Comment

              • Harry S.
                Extremely Frequent Poster
                • July 31, 2002
                • 5293

                #8
                Re: T3's- best way to go?

                Originally posted by Garry Barnes (18531)
                Please explain to me the issue that the silicone application resolves. I have not heard of this before.
                Reread post 3 by Mike


                Comment

                • Larry M.
                  Extremely Frequent Poster
                  • January 1, 1992
                  • 2688

                  #9
                  Re: T3's- best way to go?

                  Originally posted by Garry Barnes (18531)
                  Please explain to me the issue that the silicone application resolves. I have not heard of this before.
                  The bulb filaments burn/light in a vacuum or inert gas atmosphere (no oxygen). If air (oxygen) gets into the inner bulb, the energized filament will self combust and destroy itself.

                  Larry

                  Comment

                  • Garry B.
                    Very Frequent User
                    • January 1, 1991
                    • 660

                    #10
                    Re: T3's- best way to go?

                    Thanks for the explanation Bob. Makes sense. So, is there anything not correct about the Lectric Limited bulbs for judging? If going to new and correct reproduction bulbs and not have to switch them out after judging, I am thinking that may be the way I should go. Anyone out there have experience with these bulbs and judging? Thanks.
                    Garry Barnes #18531
                    '67 Lynndale Blue Coupe- National TF, BG
                    ​'67 Sunfire Yellow Coupe- 4 Star Bowtie,


                    Comment

                    • Leif A.
                      Extremely Frequent Poster
                      • August 31, 1997
                      • 3625

                      #11
                      Re: T3's- best way to go?

                      Originally posted by Garry Barnes (18531)
                      Thanks for the explanation Bob. Makes sense. So, is there anything not correct about the Lectric Limited bulbs for judging? If going to new and correct reproduction bulbs and not have to switch them out after judging, I am thinking that may be the way I should go. Anyone out there have experience with these bulbs and judging? Thanks.
                      Garry,
                      Give LL a call and ask them to look at the front of the bulbs for DOT debossing. If there is no DOT on the front of the lens, they should pass muster. Picture of bulbs I bought several years back...passed with flying colors.
                      Attached Files
                      Leif
                      '67 Coupe L79, M21, C60, N14, N40, J50, A31, U69, A01, QB1
                      Top Flight 2017 Lone Star Regional

                      Comment

                      • James G.
                        Very Frequent User
                        • August 22, 2018
                        • 800

                        #12
                        Re: T3's- best way to go?

                        In the glass there is a DOT cast in the lens, it's not obtrusive, however it is there and will result in deduction. IIRC facing the bulb it is 1/4-3/8 in from the edge at 10-11 o 'clock
                        I blew this photo up - I believe this is the location.
                        _MG_2900.jpg
                        Attached Files
                        James A Groome
                        1971 LT1 11130 - https://photos.app.goo.gl/zSoFz24JMPXw5Ffi9 - the black LT1
                        1971 LT1 21783 - 3 STAR Preservation.- https://photos.app.goo.gl/wMRDJgmyDyAwc9Nh8 - Brandshatch Green LT1
                        My first gen Camaro research http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.p...owposts;u=4337
                        Posts on Yenko boards... https://www.yenko.net/forum/search.php?searchid=826453

                        Comment

                        • Larry M.
                          Extremely Frequent Poster
                          • January 1, 1992
                          • 2688

                          #13
                          Re: T3's- best way to go?

                          Originally posted by James Groome (65120)
                          In the glass there is a DOT cast in the lens, it's not obtrusive, however it is there and will result in deduction. IIRC facing the bulb it is 1/4-3/8 in from the edge at 10-11 o 'clock
                          I blew this photo up - I believe this is the location.
                          [ATTACH=CONFIG]110036[/ATTACH]
                          As Leif states SOME of the reproduction T3 bulbs were made with NO DOT in the front glass. I also have such a set. They were purchased from Zip about 5 years ago. The DOT marking is in ink on the back of the bulb and is not seen when installed.

                          Larry

                          Comment

                          • Garry B.
                            Very Frequent User
                            • January 1, 1991
                            • 660

                            #14
                            Re: T3's- best way to go?

                            Larry, those are the ones I am looking for. In looking closely at the LL product, I can see the DOT on front at about 10 o'clock. There are also GM Restoration brand bulbs that I can't see the DOT but have written one of the vendors if there is a DOT on the front of the bulb. Could these be the ones you and Leif have?
                            Garry Barnes #18531
                            '67 Lynndale Blue Coupe- National TF, BG
                            ​'67 Sunfire Yellow Coupe- 4 Star Bowtie,


                            Comment

                            • Leif A.
                              Extremely Frequent Poster
                              • August 31, 1997
                              • 3625

                              #15
                              Re: T3's- best way to go?

                              Originally posted by Garry Barnes (18531)
                              Larry, those are the ones I am looking for. In looking closely at the LL product, I can see the DOT on front at about 10 o'clock. There are also GM Restoration brand bulbs that I can't see the DOT but have written one of the vendors if there is a DOT on the front of the bulb. Could these be the ones you and Leif have?
                              Garry,
                              As Larry stated, I bought my T3 from Zip, as well. They still carry them. I would call them and ask them about the DOT marking on the front glass. Their description says they are DOT approved but I don't see the DOT in their picture. If you zoom in on my picture in post #11, you can see there is no DOT on the lens...anywhere.

                              Purchase 1960-1967 Corvette T3 Headlight Bulb Set at Zip Products - complete your C1 & C2 Corvette restoration with correct T3 headlamp bulbs.


                              Leif
                              '67 Coupe L79, M21, C60, N14, N40, J50, A31, U69, A01, QB1
                              Top Flight 2017 Lone Star Regional

                              Comment

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