C2 Factory Undercoating - How much was factory applied - and where?

[Ronald L.]

The first question is how to get the old stuff off?

People have suggested freezing with dry ice and chipping off.

Other threads have suggested paint strippers or MEK. I tried an area with current market paint strippers and it takes a long time to soak in, and the scraper or coarse stainless using chemical resistant gloves, well it really isn't effective, cost nor time.

I've hear of using flap sanding and that doesn't get into the tight area of fender skirts...

So far a heat gun seems to soften it to the point of hot sticky tar and a scraper goes under that much easier that the above techniques.

Anyone else have a trick to getiing this stuff off?


Now - this 66 is a coupe.

I was thinking this was a dealer sprayed undercoating becuase its really heavy in the wheel house areas.

When I was looking at the back, tub area, it is all around the back glass area too.

The vertical back panel is clear of any of this stuff, the rotation number very clear, clean fiber glass, but up around the window area - black tar.

Was this factory?

I cannot see a dealer skipping the front side of the gas tank and the vertical wall to only get up around the rear window bonding strip areas.

And if it was to prevent water, it had to be underbody water getting splashed up in that area?

[Paul D.]

Re: C2 Factory Undercoating - How much was factory applied - and where?

On my 71, I found using the heat gun to soften, scraped off the majority with some Harbor Freight plastic scrapers, and then finished with solvent for final clean worked best. The scrapers were orange plastic, very sturdy, and left no marks on the fiberglass underneath.

[Thomas N.]

Re: C2 Factory Undercoating - How much was factory applied - and where?

Lacquer thinner and a scotchbrite pads will take it off, and leave the fiberglass without chips and gouges.
Wipe/saturate the undercoating with paper towels soaked with lacquer thinner.
Then start working it with a scotchbrite pad (I like to cut it into 2" x 2" squares). You can use paper towels soaked with lacquer thinner to wipe off the agitated material with the scotchbrite pad, and keep working until it is all complete. You can also use some of the molding removal tools to "dig into" the soaked undercoating to help out also.

Note, Cheap dollar store scotchbrite pads have a tendency to clog up a lot quicker with the lacquer thinner attacking them.
Have a garbage pail nearby to put all the used paper towels in and store the garbage pail outside until the thinner flashes off the paper towels as a safety precaution and will not stink up the garage as much!

[Edward J.]

Re: C2 Factory Undercoating - How much was factory applied - and where?

Ron, why remove? No one makes factory sytle undercoating that is remotely close. The thick undercoating was applied sporadically, Each car is different. You can wash with soap and water and the just blackout to make it look like new. The upper wheel areas on front and rear and back panels where sometimes very heavy, it was mainly there th protect the tops of fenders from rocks and damages the paint.

[Frank D.]

Re: C2 Factory Undercoating - How much was factory applied - and where?

"Undercoating" was the most oversold dealer/aftermarket "add on" in the industry back in the day....1,000s of cars got the treatment., even the fiberglass cars. Your thicker stuff may well be due to that. but you will have to make the determination.

I used the lacquer thinner and scrub pads on my 63; it took a weekend and lots of elbow grease and sore neck muscles (I have a lift) BUT no -damage and the results were pretty good. Pics are about 3/4 of the way through the clean up. Do it with good ventilation.

[Edward J.]

Re: C2 Factory Undercoating - How much was factory applied - and where?

[QUOTE=Frank Dreano (48332);901943]"Undercoating" was the most oversold dealer/aftermarket "add on" in the industry back in the day....1,000s of cars got the treatment., even the fiberglass cars. Your thicker stuff may well be due to that. but you will have to make the determination.

I used the lacquer thinner and scrub pads on my 63; it took a weekend and lots of elbow grease and sore neck muscles (I have a lift) BUT nodamage and the results were pretty good. Pics are about 3/4 of the way through the clean up. Do it with good ventilation.[/QUOTE

Frank, How did your exhaust judge with black out from front to rear?

[Frank D.]

Re: C2 Factory Undercoating - How much was factory applied - and where?

Its been 6 years since the regional judging and the sheets went with the car when I sold it in June;
IIRC I didn't get dinged too badly on anything under the car The exhausts appear above as they were when I bought the car and I didn't do much with them beyond general clean up.

[Richard M.]

Re: C2 Factory Undercoating - How much was factory applied - and where?

It's a messy process. Have plenty of ventilation when using the solvents. Heavy rubber gloves and safety glasses a must.


Here are photos of the process... Here.

Attached are images of a '67 showing the factory wheel well undercoating.

Rich

[Ronald L.]

Re: C2 Factory Undercoating - How much was factory applied - and where?

Ed,
Glass work - Going to need to re join where bonding of fender skirts failed mostly.

And it looks horrible, saturated with redish to yellow dirt.

Ron, why remove? No one makes factory sytle undercoating that is remotely close. The thick undercoating was applied sporadically, Each car is different. You can wash with soap and water and the just blackout to make it look like new. The upper wheel areas on front and rear and back panels where sometimes very heavy, it was mainly there th protect the tops of fenders from rocks and damages the paint.

[Ronald L.]

Re: C2 Factory Undercoating - How much was factory applied - and where?

Guys,
Thanks for the photos and advice.

The heat gun approach seems the most rapid to get 90% of it off, and will be followed by the solvents - hopefully outside as it getting 'cooler' up here.

While I'm leaning on the idea it was dealer undercoated, what I haven't been able to understand is why the bonding area of the back window fiberglass area was coated. Since its above the rotation number markings, etc, seems odd.

I'll work on getting pictures!