Re-Tag?

[Michael V.]

Re: Re-Tag?

Yes that is a workable idea. I never put anything on top of the naval jelly after applying it with a Q-tip when doing mine.

[Leif A.]

Re: Re-Tag?

How could I clean it better to see if there are broach marks?

Joe,
JMHO, but simply using lacquer thinner on a rag and wiping vigorously should remove any paint you're wanting to remove. It may take several attempts, but you can't possibly harm the metal with lacquer thinner...and it works.
That being said, you did see my post regarding the "F" in your date stamp, did you not?

[Michael G.]

[Ronald L.]

Re: Re-Tag?

Back to the block - leave acids on the store shelf.
Look at the fonts side by side, then...

combo2.jpgCan some one explain how an F stamped engine asy would get into a '67?

[Tom E.]

61153663-3987-42E7-BB72-F0562EF69548.jpg

[Joe M.]

Re: Re-Tag?

Lief, yes I did see the "F" comment that you made. I just want to get down to the nitty gritty on the pad and see exactly what the surface of the pad that numbers were stamped iinto, actually looks like.

[Bill B.]

Re: Re-Tag?

I can't help but notice the difference in the zeros on the right side stamping in this side-by-side comparison The FI0I is more elliptical, whereas the V060 is rounder. I'm inclined to suspect a re-stamp or a later vintage production stamping?

[Joe M.]

Re: Re-Tag?

Yes the number "1" does appear to actually be an "I"

[Leif A.]

Re: Re-Tag?

Yes the number "1" does appear to actually be an "I"

That part would be typical. Date stamps used the "I" vs "1"

[Gary B.]

Re: Re-Tag?

I can't help but notice the difference in the zeros on the right side stamping in this side-by-side comparison The FI0I is more elliptical, whereas the V060 is rounder. I'm inclined to suspect a re-stamp or a later vintage production stamping?

Bill,

An old posting by John Hinckley shows about 150 stamp dies used by GM, with four or five different fonts used for the letter O and the number 0. So, the differences you see are not uncommon.

Gary

[Bill B.]

Re: Re-Tag?

Hi everyone! I think I found some info which may help in the question of "F" ... According to Alan Colvin's Chevrolet by the Numbers, 1970 - 75 book, (I don't have an earlier year coverage) the "F" indicates Flint Motor Plant, while "V" indicates Flint Engine Plant. According to Wikipedia, the Flint Motor Plant was known as building #4 (?) whereas the Flint V8 Engine Plant was located on Van Slyke rd. Alan also indicates "Although multiple plants began building engines for Chevrolet in 1967, this letter code is always one letter."

My 6th edition 70-72 TIM&JG only mentions manufacturing code letters V for Flint and T for Tonawanda, but of course this info is only technically applicable to the early 1970's not the earlier 1967.

This is an interesting topic and hope more folks chime in with some history. If it turns out that Joe's engine is neither a re-stamp nor swap, then there may be an interesting factory assembly one-of-kind story here ...

[David H.]

Re: Re-Tag?

[QUOTE ... This is an interesting topic and hope more folks chime in with some history. If it turns out that Joe's engine is neither a re-stamp nor swap, then there may be an interesting factory assembly one-of-kind story here ...[/QUOTE]

Bill

1966 Flint engine assembly stamp began "F"

1967 Flint engine assembly stamp began "V"

VIN "3123" would be a VERY late car for a gang stamp "F" mistake.

Dave

[Joe L.]

Re: Re-Tag?

[QUOTE ... This is an interesting topic and hope more folks chime in with some history. If it turns out that Joe's engine is neither a re-stamp nor swap, then there may be an interesting factory assembly one-of-kind story here ...

Bill

1966 Flint engine assembly stamp began "F"

1967 Flint engine assembly stamp began "V"

VIN "3123" would be a VERY late car for a gang stamp "F" mistake.

Dave[/QUOTE]

Dave-------

...and the first alpha character of the gang stamp was not even changed regularly. It remained in the gang stamps until it needed to be replaced due to wear.

Al Grenning has a massive library of block stampings. It would be very interesting to find out if he has any other examples of the "F" prefix for 1967.

[Joe M.]

Re: Re-Tag?

Remember, mine is an early 67 model car with a motor produced September 29. If as Joe says, "the first alpha character of the gang stamp was not even changed regularly. It remained in the gang stamps until it needed to be replaced due to wear", it is entirely possible that the stamp did in fact come with my original engine.

This is the reason I want to really clean the stamp pad and look for the broach marks. If it is a restamp, someone went to an awful lot of trouble in getting a correct motor with a correct build date period to then stamp what was essentially a not extremly valuable motor. Were it a 427, then yes, the effort would be worth it.. When I bought my car in 2004, there were a LOT of similar cars around for sale as well as quite a few 427's.

I have the owners back to the mid 80's, all private parties. At that point it would have been an expensive undertaking with little profit return evident. Doing it today, yes, there would probably be a payoff.

For that reason, I want to look further.

Who is Al Grenning and how can I contact him?

Again, thanks to ALL who responded. Every opinion helps.

[Ronald L.]

Re: Re-Tag?

Joe,
To have any merit of that supposition, then there should be a month of early cars with this stamp.

These engines were manufactured on an assembly line, by the tune of thousands a day, that means the one before yours got stamped and then put in the engine rack, then yours stamped and racked, then the next one. That rack then went in a rail car to St Louis Asy.

So if someone was using a stamp from the prior model year... should be over three thousand cars with this.

Not likely.

Now back to the stamp pad - its 1013, yes?

October?

Now we are six weeks into 1967 production and someone just happened to grab the wrong stamp?

The way to see more of this is to pull the head.

If this is a restamp, because the stamps have been out there for 40+ years..., pull the head.

See if the machining pattern is consistent as some of the stampers are making the pad appear broached and that evidence is under the head - it won't be the same.