Clutch Problems

[Bill B.]

65 coupe, 327 4 speed completely stock

I just finished rebuilding my 327 a couple of months ago. During rebuild I installed a new pressure plate, disc and throw out bearing along with a crank bushing. I have 250 miles on new engine and clutch. Today while shifting from 1st to 2nd I heard and felt a sort of pop and it felt like something let loose. The clutch pedal would go all the way to the floor and back to normal position but transmission was stuck in 1st. I nursed it back home and upon inspection the linkage is all good so I'm suspecting the throw out bearing let go. Based on my description does that sound like the problem. The clutch kit is a Lux and I inspected the throw out bearing in the clutch arm before installation to make sure it was installed correctly plus I had another set of eyes look at it also. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

Bill B.

[Robert W.]

Re: Clutch Problems

Is it possible your pivot ball broke off? You may be able to disconnect the linkage and pull the rubber boot out of the way to get a peek inside. I don't think there's a lot of room, but a mirror may help...

[Bill B.]

Re: Clutch Problems

I found the problem. Weld on Z bar broke. Is that worth rewelding or do I need to get a new Z bar? Pic of other end of Z also attached. Looks like its been welded before. IMG_5384.jpgIMG_5386.jpg

[Robert W.]

Re: Clutch Problems

I know I'll be interested in the other responses you get! If you know a good welder, it could be fixed. Personally, I would buy a new part due to the stress that part routinely sees (and it looks like its already had some issues in the past)... At least it's easy to get at!

[Bill B.]

Re: Clutch Problems

I know I'll be interested in the other responses you get! If you know a good welder, it could be fixed. Personally, I would buy a new part due to the stress that part routinely sees (and it looks like its already had some issues in the past)... At least it's easy to get at!

Yes. what a relief that I don't have to pull tranny. Easy fix.

[Russ S.]

Re: Clutch Problems

No reason it can't be welded.

[Jim L.]

Re: Clutch Problems

No reason it can't be welded.

That Z-bar is tough, hardened steel. I'd be concerned about welding heat softening it up.

I'd buy new before I'd attempt welding.

[Joe L.]

Re: Clutch Problems

I found the problem. Weld on Z bar broke. Is that worth rewelding or do I need to get a new Z bar? Pic of other end of Z also attached. Looks like its been welded before. [ATTACH=CONFIG]107437[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]107438[/ATTACH]

Bill------


This is not an uncommon problem with clutch cross shafts, although the location of the actual break varies. Sometimes, a portion of the actual tubular section breaks off near the lever on either end. While it can be weld-repaired as shown, keep in mind that unseen metal fatigue can remain resulting in another break "down the road".

[Bill B.]

Re: Clutch Problems

Bill------


This is not an uncommon problem with clutch cross shafts, although the location of the actual break varies. Sometimes, a portion of the actual tubular section breaks off near the lever on either end. While it can be weld-repaired as shown, keep in mind that unseen metal fatigue can remain resulting in another break "down the road".

I agree. I have ordered a new cross shaft and will be back on the road next week. Cheap insurance against that happening again. It was an interesting ride getting home without a clutch. My timing at 4 way stops was impeccable.

[Robert W.]

Re: Clutch Problems

I drove my '66 to work this morning at 5AM to show the guys, about 3 miles into my 45mi trip, the panel fuse blew, I reached back, got my flashlight and checked all the gauges once in a while and kept on going. These cars are actually pretty simple when you know what your working with...

[Larry M.]

Re: Clutch Problems

I agree. I have ordered a new cross shaft and will be back on the road next week. Cheap insurance against that happening again. It was an interesting ride getting home without a clutch. My timing at 4 way stops was impeccable.

Not all new replacements are as good as the originals. I would carefully check out the one you get, and mic the metal and check the welds. You may need to add some weld metal in certain areas as reinforcement...........although I hope it is fine.

NOS or a good used original may have been the best choice.

Larry

[Bill B.]

Re: Clutch Problems

Not all new replacements are as good as the originals. I would carefully check out the one you get, and mic the metal and check the welds. You may need to add some weld metal in certain areas as reinforcement...........although I hope it is fine.

NOS or a good used original may have been the best choice.

Larry

Thanks Larry...I ordered a replacement from Zip and I do plan on having the welds checked and and adding if necessary. I so appreciate the input.

[Leif A.]

Re: Clutch Problems

Thanks Larry...I ordered a replacement from Zip and I do plan on having the welds checked and and adding if necessary. I so appreciate the input.

Bill,
Not sure of the origination of the Zip part but the one from Doc Rebuild is NOS and Made in the USA.

https://shop.docrebuild.com/1963-1965Corvette327ClutchCrossGenuineGM3832857NOS.aspx

[Joe L.]

Re: Clutch Problems

I agree. I have ordered a new cross shaft and will be back on the road next week. Cheap insurance against that happening again. It was an interesting ride getting home without a clutch. My timing at 4 way stops was impeccable.

Bill-----


There were actually 3 different shafts used over the 1963-1981 period. These were 1963-66 small block, 1965-66 big block, and all 1967-81. The only difference relates to the angularity between the levers and it can be difficult to visually discern this. Make sure you get the correct one.

[Bill B.]

Re: Clutch Problems

I received the new cross shaft along with new ball studs and installed. The pedal pushrod is not long enough to go thru the fitting for adjustment. It lacks about 1/4 inch of starting into the fitting (see picture). IMG_5391 (2).jpg Before the cross shaft broke I could adjust the clutch but just barely. All parts are correct for a 327 application (fork pushrod 10 9/16 inch, pedal pushrod 18 inches). The only part I cannot verify is clutch fork. I pulled the rubber boot and it is on the stud and seems ok. I even started the motor and pulled the fork by hand and observed it making contact with the pressure plate fingers and it was very smooth with no wobbling or any distortion I could see so I'm ruling out the clutch fork as being bad. What bothers me is I could adjust the clutch before and I want to rule out other damage I cannot see or am should be aware of checking for. I've ordered the 19 1/4 inch pedal pushrod and I think that will take care of the adjustment problem. I just don't want to overlook a problem that was caused by the cross shaft breaking last week. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.