1978 Pace Car - what to look for on those super low mile cars (but with a twist)

[Harris B.]

Several weeks ago I made the decision to buy a low mile 78 Pace Car. I have an 81 and 82 and just love them and decided I wanted another C3, this time a 78 Pace Car. To be sure, my '81 and '82 were very low mileage cars but still had the common problems (leaking heater core, inoperable air conditioning, gauge problems, inoperable power antennas, drooping sun visors, etc., etc.). I drive my '81 and '82 at least weekly, including to work at least one day a week. I like to see nice, clean, low mileage Corvettes but I plan to drive my cars, not store them or show them. I have become familiar with these late C3s (I consider the '78 to '82 the "late C3s").

To my surprise, there are quite a few extremely low mile pace cars out there for sale (with less than 100 miles), even with the window sticker still on the car, plastic wrap still on the steering wheel and on the seats, and original tires. I spent considerable time researching '78 pace cars, including posts here. I think I have sufficiently educated myself on this particular model year.

I found one that interests me (L82, automatic) but I have some concerns. At least from what I see, the paint looks good (not perfect but the paint was never perfect), all original parts seem to be intact, it has its share of parts with "patina" that are original but slightly rusted, paint chipping, etc. I realize that with such an old car, the tires have to be replaced, the brakes inspected/repaired, and the steering system inspected/repaired. Here are my concerns and questions:

1. The exhaust pipe(s) from the back of the converter to the beginning of the tail pipes are very rusty. Although the exhaust pipes from the engine to the converter look good and the mufflers/tail pipes look good, the pipes from the converter to the muffler are very rusty (no holes just rusty) (I know pictures would be better but I don't have them yet). Also, the frame is not rusty (patina, yes; heavy rust, no). Is it normal for this section of the exhaust system to be more rusty than the rest of the pipes?

2. What about the fuel tank? Is there a way to determine if the existing fuel tank able to be used?

3. If we assume the frame is solid; everything else is original; and the engine runs with no obvious valve tap, etc.; and the transmission shifts with no obvious chatter or slip, what other significant items I should look at?

I know I will have some surprises when I get it home, I just would like to minimize those surprises. Looking forward to your good, informative comments.

[Ara G.]

Re: 1978 Pace Car - what to look for on those super low mile cars (but with a twist)

I think the general operational items is key. I own a 78 Pace Car with 72 miles on it. My Dad bought it new from Mirak Chevrolet in Mass. Left it in the wrapper, instructed dealer to NOT apply graphics or buff the car out. It sits as the second it rolled off the assembly line. If you want pics to compare to yours, configuration questions, etc don't hesitate to PM me. The cars are awesome. It's my only C3 but i love it. Sat for decades in my dad's non-climate controlled garage in Mass. Has some rust on the exhaust as you mention with yours, etc and manifolds, etc. Nothing major. Luckily she is in my Air conditioned garage in Florida now. Put some new fuel in it and she fired right up. Wonderful cars. More C3 experts will chime in here and help you, just wanted to offer some assistance....Good luck with your search. ARA

[Mike M.]

Re: 1978 Pace Car - what to look for on those super low mile cars (but with a twist)

i believe carlton colclough, the 63-4 team leader, has a no milage 78 for sale. dont think its a pace car but haven't seen it in years. carlton's contact info is on page 2 of any Restorer magazine. mike

[Tom R.]

Re: 1978 Pace Car - what to look for on those super low mile cars (but with a twist)

The first question you must ask yourself and resolve is whether you will drive it or not. Note that Ara states his sits (well, he probably puts a few miles on it) but the point is you plan to drive than maintenance becomes a priority. In which case than its tires, brakes, engine tuning, etc. Then the question is whether you will campaign the car...get it judged? In which case, decisions made about original pipes with rust and nice shiny new ones that will lose on originality points.

1. The exhaust pipe(s) from the back of the converter to the beginning of the tail pipes are very rusty. Although the exhaust pipes from the engine to the converter look good and the mufflers/tail pipes look good, the pipes from the converter to the muffler are very rusty (no holes just rusty) (I know pictures would be better but I don't have them yet). Also, the frame is not rusty (patina, yes; heavy rust, no). Is it normal for this section of the exhaust system to be more rusty than the rest of the pipes?

As a chassis judge, I can tell you the chassis shows the sins of care and/or neglect. Modest rust is expected but crusty rust shows exposure to moisture. The cat converter should not be overly rusted. The sheen or patina on the frame will show fading. Not many have their original patina. Look for the frame stencil on the frame behind the passenger-side front tire. Look for shim marks in the rear frame in the wheel well. While your there, look for paint over the fuel lines...if they have paint on them, then the frame has been touched up. Otherwise they should be carbon steel and natural.

2. What about the fuel tank? Is there a way to determine if the existing fuel tank able to be used?

It would be interesting to know how long the car sat with or without fuel in the tank. Others can help with this one

3. If we assume the frame is solid; everything else is original; and the engine runs with no obvious valve tap, etc.; and the transmission shifts with no obvious chatter or slip, what other significant items I should look at?

I would get underneath with a good flash light and looks for leaks. You've mentioned brakes but that is the most common. Then, look at the differential case, transmission pan, steering control valve, power steering unit and finally, oil leaks. Just see how wet it is underneath. At some point, with few miles and once parts start to move again, seals will fail and leaks result. I see it all the time.

I might add given its an L82, see if the PCV valve has the yellow body. The yellow-bodied PCV valves were factory installed on L82s and not available over the counter...thus are highly sought. If that's been replaced on a low-mileage 1978 L82, than I would be curious what else has been replaced.

I know I will have some surprises when I get it home, I just would like to minimize those surprises. Looking forward to your good, informative comments.

Also, do sufficient homework and study so there are no surprises. For example, check for matching numbers, reconciling the VIN derivative on the engine suffix pad, (tranny as well but that's tough without a lift) and the VIN tag on the driver's side windshield post. Then check the trim tag date code to ensure it reflects the Pace Car paint scheme...something like 19 / 47. Here's a link to how I documented matching numbers on my 1978 Silver Anniversary car. Should help with guidance and what to look for. Also consider picking up the 78/79 TIMJG...it's dated but the data is still quite accurate and will be helpful as you look up numbers.

Finally, ask about paperwork...what comes with it? Glovebox stuff? Buildsheet? Window sticker? EPA decals?

http://hunt4cleanair.net/Articles/VIN%209041.pdf

[Tim G.]

Re: 1978 Pace Car - what to look for on those super low mile cars (but with a twist)

A friend here in Austin wanted the exact car you are looking for and I knew someone that had one. It was a Canadian Delivery Pace Car with Canadian paperwork. It is an L82 Automatic with 27,000 miles (40,000 kilometers). I saw the car on Saturday, the day after it was delivered to Austin and it is stunning. His intention is to drive and enjoy it. It will be at the Frisco Regional. You will need to decide if you want one with low miles to store or one with some miles to drive a bit.

[Patrick H.]

Re: 1978 Pace Car - what to look for on those super low mile cars (but with a twist)

You will need to decide if you want one with low miles to store or one with some miles to drive a bit.

Exactly.

If I was going to drive it, I'd much rather find a 40000 mile car than a 400 mile car. Leave the very low mile cars to the collectors as garage queens.

[Harris B.]

Re: 1978 Pace Car - what to look for on those super low mile cars (but with a twist)

Thanks to all of you for providing your responses (and to those of you who may later respond).

To Tom Russo's comments: Yes, I plan to drive the car frequently (at least weekly). I will carefully look for the stencil marks on the frame, shim marks, and if there is any paint on the fuel lines (I never thought about this but so true that if paint on those lines, there was some touching up going on). I'll carefully look to see if there is any leak or wet places underneath. I am happy to report that the car still has its yellow-bodied PCV valve (which is good). The car has all of its documentation (owner does not have the tank sticker but has not looked to see if it is still on the tank). So far, all of the documentation is consistent with its serial number and VIN. By the way, Tom, I have read several times your article on documenting you Silver Anniversary car. Excellent work (as well as your other articles, including Pace Car: The Final Process).