Fuel Pump Replacement-427/400 w/AC

[Henry S.]

I have a 1967 Corvette roadster, 427 CI, 400 HP, with factory A/C. The fuel pump is leaking and I want to change it. It appears as though the compressor and front mounting bracket need to be removed/set aside to access the fuel pump mounting bolts. I tried to access the fuel pump mounting bolts from underneath and it doesn't appear as though there is access to the front ( outermost) bolt. I thought about going through the wheel well, but that doesn't appear to provide access. Advice greatly appreciated. Thx.

[Mike M.]

Re: Fuel Pump Replacement-427/400 w/AC

use 1/4" drive flex socket. With right front tire removed, insert tool thru the area of the right inner skirt in the vicinity of the a-arm dust shield. loosen the inlet and outlet lines first. its doable but a royal PITA. good luck, mike

[Larry M.]

Re: Fuel Pump Replacement-427/400 w/AC

use 1/4" drive flex socket. With right front tire removed, insert tool thru the area of the right inner skirt in the vicinity of the a-arm dust shield. loosen the inlet and outlet lines first. its doable but a royal PITA. good luck, mike

Agree with Mike. I would also add that you will likely need a Craftsman or Snap-on swivel-socket to get to the bolts. I was able to ultimately use a 3/8 extension with swivel socket, but 1/4 is best if it will handle the torque to unloosen the bolts. Some of these bolts can be stubborn.

Larry

[Richard B.]

[Mark E.]

Re: Fuel Pump Replacement-427/400 w/AC

Would it be easier to unfasten the compressor mounting bolts and move it a bit out of the way? No need to disconnect the refrigerant lines.

[Larry M.]

Re: Fuel Pump Replacement-427/400 w/AC

Would it be easier to unfasten the compressor mounting bolts and move it a bit out of the way? No need to disconnect the refrigerant lines.

Not really.

Biggest issue for me was positioning the new pump and then getting the first bolt started. I ultimately used two 5/16 x 2 inch wooden dowels to position the pump. Then removed one and inserted the first bolt. Threaded studs will also work, and can be removed for correct bolts.

Remember to have engine at TDC compression stroke #1 to retract fuel pump rod into the block to make it easier to insert new pump actuating lever.

Larry

[Frank D.]

Re: Fuel Pump Replacement-427/400 w/AC

And have the engine at TDC

[Henry S.]

Re: Fuel Pump Replacement-427/400 w/AC

Well, I finally got around to replacing the fuel pump on my 427/400, '67 roadster with A/C. I can't begin to tell you how invaluable the information posted by responding members was. Accessing the pump through the inner fender was the only way to go. Bringing the engine to TDC to insure the fuel pump actuator rod was in the correct position was great. I found the the best piece of advice was an offshoot of the suggestion about using 5/16x2 inch wooden dowels to position the pump. Instead of wood dowels, I used one 2" exhaust manifold stud to position the pump and was able to insert the correct bolt into the remaining hole to draw up on the pump and secure it enough to remove the stud and insert the second correct bolt. Thanks again to all. What a knowledgeable group of individuals. Thanks again !