Starter Sourcing - NCRS Discussion Boards

Starter Sourcing

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Keith M.
    Very Frequent User
    • January 16, 2021
    • 663

    Starter Sourcing

    So as I begin this restore journey...today tried to start my '69 convertible (after sitting about 20 years) and got nothing. Had a battery hooked up and charger so that was not an issue. Think the starter is the issue. Gonna pull it tomorrow to see what I got. It should be a 1108338 Delco if it is the original...in which case I will look to have it rebuilt/remanufactured. But I am guessing it is not the original starter which leads me to seek recommendations for good places to find a "correct" starter. Best I can tell so far is eBay and get ready to pay up.I want this to be a correct as possible restore so looking for direction on where to go.

    Second question is...what would be the "ideal" date range for a starter I should be looking for with my 10/25/69 built car? Obviously nothing AFTER that date...but what is ideal date range? What is "acceptable" date range?? I would think ideal would be like maybe June to Sept 69...and acceptable like February to early Oct as not unreasonable?

    Am fairly certain the starter is the current issue. I have let some MMO soak in after putting some in each spark plug hole...and the crank turned fine by hand. But nothing at all when we tried to start. Hammer trick did nothing. Thanks for any guidance.
    ***************
    late Oct 1969 L46 350/350, M21 4spd, 3.70 posi convertible --As with life, restoration is a journey, not a destination. Though restored cars provide both journeys AND destinations!
  • Bill B.
    Expired
    • September 30, 2002
    • 351

    #2
    Re: Starter Sourcing

    I dealt with Ron at ChevyCool. Think he is located in Arizona phone 480-720-8000 and easy to talk to. I needed a correctly dated starter for my 58...took about a week to get it.

    Comment

    • Donald O.
      Extremely Frequent Poster
      • May 31, 1990
      • 1584

      #3
      Re: Starter Sourcing

      Take the starter to an Autozone (or your local FLAPS) and have it checked for free, just to make sure it is the starter, or the solenoid. If it is the original, and faulty, have it rebuilt/restored. If it isn't get one from your FLAPS for about $50.
      If the starter/solenoid checks out, put it back in the car and check the ignition switch and the ignition wiring.
      The light at the end of the tunnel has been turned off.

      Comment

      • Joe L.
        Beyond Control Poster
        • January 31, 1988
        • 43197

        #4
        Re: Starter Sourcing

        Originally posted by Keith Michaud (67636)
        So as I begin this restore journey...today tried to start my '69 convertible (after sitting about 20 years) and got nothing. Had a battery hooked up and charger so that was not an issue. Think the starter is the issue. Gonna pull it tomorrow to see what I got. It should be a 1108338 Delco if it is the original...in which case I will look to have it rebuilt/remanufactured. But I am guessing it is not the original starter which leads me to seek recommendations for good places to find a "correct" starter. Best I can tell so far is eBay and get ready to pay up.I want this to be a correct as possible restore so looking for direction on where to go.

        Second question is...what would be the "ideal" date range for a starter I should be looking for with my 10/25/69 built car? Obviously nothing AFTER that date...but what is ideal date range? What is "acceptable" date range?? I would think ideal would be like maybe June to Sept 69...and acceptable like February to early Oct as not unreasonable?

        Am fairly certain the starter is the current issue. I have let some MMO soak in after putting some in each spark plug hole...and the crank turned fine by hand. But nothing at all when we tried to start. Hammer trick did nothing. Thanks for any guidance.

        Keith------


        One thing to keep in mind: the GM #1108338 was not a high torque starter. I have found that non high torque starters are rather marginal for 350 engines. I much prefer high torque starters. A starter with an 1108338 stamped frame can be converted to a high torque starter by replacing the armature and field coil. However, it will be externally identifiable by the location of the field coil terminal.
        In Appreciation of John Hinckley

        Comment

        • Patrick H.
          Beyond Control Poster
          • November 30, 1989
          • 11613

          #5
          Re: Starter Sourcing

          I would check the ground connection just under the battery on the frame.

          There are other locations such as the firewall connector and the ground on the right side of the engine to look as well.

          If truly "nothing" happened and the starter worked the last time you operated the car, they don't tend to quit working like that. A ground, though, will corrode over time and lead to a no-start condition.
          Vice-Chairman (West), Michigan Chapter NCRS
          71 "deer modified" coupe
          72 5-Star Bowtie / Duntov coupe. https://www.flickr.com/photos/124695...57649252735124
          2008 coupe
          Available stickers: Engine suffix code, exhaust tips & mufflers, shocks, AIR diverter valve broadcast code.

          Comment

          • Paul Y.
            Very Frequent User
            • September 30, 1982
            • 570

            #6
            Re: Starter Sourcing

            I have had the ground cable corrode internally and not keep the connection. That one was a bear to trouble shoot. You can test the ground with the black part of a jumper cable.( or red, doesn't matter)
            It's a good life!














            Comment

            • Patrick H.
              Beyond Control Poster
              • November 30, 1989
              • 11613

              #7
              Re: Starter Sourcing

              Originally posted by Paul Young (5962)
              I have had the ground cable corrode internally and not keep the connection. That one was a bear to trouble shoot. You can test the ground with the black part of a jumper cable.( or red, doesn't matter)
              Same here!

              The ground cable under the battery disintegrated and left me stranded on the judging floor of the Cincinnati Regional in 2005 (?).
              Thankfully there were plenty of NCRS members around to help me push it on the trailer to take home.
              Vice-Chairman (West), Michigan Chapter NCRS
              71 "deer modified" coupe
              72 5-Star Bowtie / Duntov coupe. https://www.flickr.com/photos/124695...57649252735124
              2008 coupe
              Available stickers: Engine suffix code, exhaust tips & mufflers, shocks, AIR diverter valve broadcast code.

              Comment

              • Keith M.
                Very Frequent User
                • January 16, 2021
                • 663

                #8
                Re: Starter Sourcing

                So good news/bad news...Good news is got her to turn over. So don't need starter but now I know where to go to get a correct one when I am ready for that. I had been connecting an external battery to terminals via jumper cables ...but once I put battery in with direct connection she turned over but no spark. Adjusted points to 0.018 but still no spark. Coil checks good. Thinking I need new points and condenser...so I will probably also get correct cap and rotor while I am at it and go from there. Also have massive oil leak from oil line to dash pressure gauge. Can anyone point me as to where to get a correct condenser?
                ***************
                late Oct 1969 L46 350/350, M21 4spd, 3.70 posi convertible --As with life, restoration is a journey, not a destination. Though restored cars provide both journeys AND destinations!

                Comment

                • Elliott P.
                  Expired
                  • February 4, 2018
                  • 65

                  #9
                  Re: Starter Sourcing

                  Originally posted by Bill Belobrajdic (38746)
                  I dealt with Ron at ChevyCool. Think he is located in Arizona phone 480-720-8000 and easy to talk to. I needed a correctly dated starter for my 58...took about a week to get it.
                  I will double-down with recommending Ron Burke Of ChevyCool in Scottsdale, Arizona, for correct rebuild of starters, or correct numbered/dated top-flight rebuilt replacement starters for your Corvette. He advertises in NCRS Driveline, 1-480-720-8000, chevycool@msn.com, www.chevycool.com. He has a stock of cores so he can likely match an appropriate date code for you. Also has correct new/numbered solenoids. I got a nice shinny like-new correct number/date replacement starter for my 1965 L79 last year. Best regards, Elliott

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  Searching...Please wait.
                  An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because you have logged in since the previous page was loaded.

                  Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
                  An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because the token has expired.

                  Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
                  An internal error has occurred and the module cannot be displayed.
                  There are no results that meet this criteria.
                  Search Result for "|||"