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Re: 67 Hardtop Complete
Tom looks great 👍 -
Re: 67 Hardtop Complete
Tom, I salute you. I know how hard it is to do yourself. I recommend others do their own top. Not trying to pirate your thread, here is my 63 top.
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Re: 67 Hardtop Complete
Thanks Bill!Comment
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Re: 67 Hardtop Complete
Tom...congratulations on the completion of your project...sounds like you documented the restoration and have photos...perhaps you might want to send it in so I can publish it in an upcoming issue of The Restorer so the entire membership can read about it and not just the 150-200 members that use the TDB...
VinnieComment
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Re: 67 Hardtop Complete
Tom, it looks great. Thanks for the motivation and help with mine through your questions. Mine is apart and repainted. Now to get on it as soon as the car is on the road again. So close. Back to finishing in April and hopefully complete to drive by June/July. I have a nom 67 roadster. I know it was a bb but not a 435. It is once again a 427. Thanks to all that helped Tom and in turn me.
Tom KComment
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Re: 67 Hardtop Complete
Yes, black/saddle. Great combination. But black cars need to be cleaned all the time else they look awful.
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Re: 67 Hardtop Complete
Tom, what rear rubber did you use? NOS or a new piece from one of the suppliers?
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Re: 67 Hardtop Complete
Harry,
I used the rubber from Corvette Rubber Company, the original had been removed years ago so I have no frame of reference concerning fit but it seemed to fit well. I ordered everything from Corvette America because they were offering 15% and free shipping however it was drop shipped from Glassworks.
Tom
one other thing... I haven’t water tested yet but I’m a little concerned about the lack of a sealant between the rubber and the plexiglass. I did the rope caulk between the frame and the rubber seal so we shall see. I also sealed under all of the stainless trim as per the AIM.Comment
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Re: 67 Hardtop Complete
Tom you did a super job, it looks great! Just as nice as Harry's.☺ You are the expert now!
Rich
PS I've written a few, but Dave Z, Jack M, and Mark F are my PDF-Hero-Editors. They professionalize it all so it's much better to read.Comment
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Re: 67 Hardtop Complete
Tom, When Frank D's 63 Coupe was here a few years ago for some things he asked me to do, he told me had a annoying water leak at his windshield. Whoever did the glass install before he got the car didn't use sealer between glass and rubber. I suggested to him that I could try to seal it at the lower horizontal area and up the vertical areas on each side. There were obvious gaps there that I felt were the cause of the leaks. IIRC he garden hose tested it and was the clue also.
Here you can see..... no sealer all the way to the edge of the glass.
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You could try this similar process on your HT. It's a bit tedious but it may let you sleep better after you do it.... lol
Mask off the Plexiglas right along the edge of the rubber. Blue Painters tape may be best for the plastic. I used safe-release tape just to make it easier to remove from the glass.
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This is my recommended sealer. Napa has it. It's non hardening and stays pliable. It's great for water leaks.
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Get a few of these plastic throw away syringes from a local Hobby or HW store or online. I forget exactly where I got mine. Add some sealer to the tube and cut the tip very close to the end for a very small flow.
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Pry the rubber away from the Plexiglas with a plastic scraper tool a little bit at a time and apply a small amount in the gap using the syringe. Try to get it as deep as possible down by the edge of the Plexiglas, not too much, just enough to do the job without making it ooze out and up too far. Do a few inches at a time and release the tip of the tool and let the rubber relax to see if you've applied the right amount.
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Scrape away any large excess amount away from the rubber with the plastic tool and dress and clean it while it's still very liquid. Don't use any solvent as it may fog the Plexiglas.
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Let the sealer begin to cure for several hours. The longer the better. Do not under any circumstances pull the tape unless the sealer has cured quite a bit. You can test it with a small pick and see if it's become elastic.
After cure time carefully remove the tape at a 180* pull, i.e. face to face along the Plexiglas. This makes for a cleaner pull and has a tendency to cut any cured sealer away from the joint better. If any strands escape use a tiny scissors or X-Acto blade to just cut them close to the rubber so they don't spring back onto the clean areas.
I think you'd prevent any water leaks in the future with this method. It's a bit of work but may be worth it later when you wash the car or get caught in a shower some day.
RichComment
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