Pushrod cleaning

[Mark H.]

Any tips on cleaning pushrods? I know they are basically all the same, but these are from a '64 L75. Thanks.

[Jim L.]

Re: Pushrod cleaning

Any tips on cleaning pushrods? I know they are basically all the same, but these are from a '64 L75. Thanks.

Are you meaning the hollow interior? If so, I'd spritz some Brakleen in there and follow up with a blast of compressed air.

Don't over think it.

[Paul D.]

Re: Pushrod cleaning

Jim is dead on. If they seem blocked with oil deposits, consider soaking in solvent and then pushing some wire through them. You should be able to see right through them. As a kid I reused push rods and rockers with no regard to position and cannot recall ever having a problem. Many warn of getting them out of order or replacing rockers without new push rods. Would like to hear what others think. Chip.

[Jim L.]

Re: Pushrod cleaning

Jim is dead on. If they seem blocked with oil deposits, consider soaking in solvent and then pushing some wire through them. You should be able to see right through them. As a kid, I reused push rods and rockers with no regard to position and cannot recall ever having a problem. Many warn of getting them out of order or replacing rockers without new push rods. Would like to hear what others think. Chip.

As a kid and as a charter member of the Motor-of-the-Month club with regards to my five seven Chebby, I saw a lot of factory push rods with damaged, pitted, smashed ends.

I have no idea what caused the carnage I witnessed.

However even then, in spite of my meager engine building skills, I always bought new push rods. Some of the new-fangled ones even had welded-on and hardened ball ends.

Those looked funny but they didn't fail.

[Mel S.]

Re: Pushrod cleaning

i am 74 and have played with many Chevy motors over the years. The pushrods and rocker arms were assembled in what ever order i took them of my work bench and never had a problem,
Mel

[Duke W.]

Re: Pushrod cleaning

I've always bagged mating rockers, balls, and pushrods together for re-installation as "matched run-in set" assuming they and the valve stem tips pass visual inspection for galling or any other unusual wear. Assuming a new cam and lifters they don't have to go back in the same hole, but I consider this an ounce of prevention to avoid a later pound of cure, and it takes virtually no effort.

With OE force valve springs maybe it makes no difference, but so many engines get put back together with unnecessary "gorilla" valve springs. The most recent example I'm aware of is a shop that rebuilt a set of 327/300 heads for reinstallation on the original unrebuilt motor. The installed valve springs were designed for use with the first design Trans-Am racing cam (part number ending in 140)

Such utter stupidity from so-called "professional engine shops"(including high volume/high pressure oil pumps) is amazing, and I don't understand how these places stay in business.

Duke

[Mark H.]

Re: Pushrod cleaning

I bagged and labeled the rockers, balls and pushrods so they will go back in the same spot. They have very little wear, so just wanted to be sure I get them cleaned up OK. The bottom end should be back from the shop in the next couple of weeks - trying to be ready!

[Domenic T.]

Re: Pushrod cleaning

Mark, when I remove the rockers I slide each assembly, rocker, ball, nut down a wire and dip them with the push rods in a 5 gallon bucket of REAL carb cleaner. When finished in the carb cleaner I rinse them and blow threw each pushrod with compressed air. Then roll each push rod down a piece of glass to see if it is bent.
I inspect all the parts for wear but am now finding less wear due to the improved oils. Back in the late 50's I found worn rockers and bad pushrod tips along with the rocker balls.

Dom

[Patrick B.]

[Frank D.]

Re: Pushrod cleaning

Back in the good ole' days regular kerosene was popular to clean gummed up parts.

[Domenic T.]

Re: Pushrod cleaning

Dom ——- I used to get REAL carb cleaner in a steel bucket with a plastic basket. I think it was from Permatex, but I can’t find it anymore. Where do you get it?

Patrick,
I get it from a local parts store that is discontinuing it because I live in CA. I've tried a bunch and most were bad at best. The brand I find that works the best is Berrymans. It's about 135.00 but it's like having someone working for you cleaning parts. It strips paint fron parts and is ideal for parts cleaning.
Safety Clean had a rented product that was in about a 20 gallon barrel and it had a air motor that rotated the parts basket back & forth. WOW was that the way to go.
Again, I tried NAPA and sent the 5 gallon can back, it was that bad.
The carb cleaner is not the best for health! I only use it outside and only a drop on your hand will affect me. I have a sonic cleaner I use inside the shop, but it is also expensive to buy and use.

Dom

[Patrick B.]

Re: Pushrod cleaning

Thanks Dom, I’ll look for Berryman’s.

[Joe L.]

Re: Pushrod cleaning

As a kid and as a charter member of the Motor-of-the-Month club with regards to my five seven Chebby, I saw a lot of factory push rods with damaged, pitted, smashed ends.

I have no idea what caused the carnage I witnessed.

However even then, in spite of my meager engine building skills, I always bought new push rods. Some of the new-fangled ones even had welded-on and hardened ball ends.

Those looked funny but they didn't fail.

Jim-------


The welded ball pushrods are the best out there save for some very high buck aftermarket which virtually no street engine needs. Chevrolet small blocks have all used welded ball pushrods since 1985 and GM SERVICE pushrods for 1955-84 are also welded ball type.

Some folks worry that the welded balls will become "un-welded" but I've never heard of an instance of that occurring.

Welded ball offers at least 3 advantages over the earlier "1 piece" style (which were actually not 1 piece): (1) the ball ends are perfectly round, (2) the balls are extremely hardened, and (3) welded ball style are "270" degree versus "180" degree for "1 piece". Doubt the latter? Take a welded ball pushrod and rotate it through the longitudinal axis of the rocker arm and see through what arc the ball remains seated in the rocker. Do the same for a "1 piece". With a "1 piece" pushrod, the ends are only "half round" so the pushrod end cannot rotate through more than 180 degrees. With a welded ball, the ball's 360 degree surface is only interrupted by its affixation to the tube which constitutes only about 90 degrees of the ball's circumference

[E B.]

Re: Pushrod cleaning

Try steel wool and cleaning degreaser. Ed