C1 interior ordering sequence to the finish line?

[Jill J.]

Hi Everyone.

I'm getting down to the wire on finishing my 59 C1 project (finally). Just finished getting my power top unit installed and functional (yay!). This past weekend I installed my dash end caps on my dashpad. I still need to do the following before I'm finished. Install the windlacing, kick panels, carpet, door panels , package tray, seats, and vinyl top. I plan to install the vinyl top last.

Does anyone have any suggestions on the ordering of the remaining items? I'm kind of at a crossroads here because I don't want to install, then uninstall, then install again because i didnt plan the correct sequence to the finish line.

Thanks in advance for your feedback.

Jill, 59140

[Terry D.]

Re: C1 interior ordering sequence to the finish line?

I would do carpet, windlace and kick panels, parkage tray, seats and door panels.

[Edward J.]

Re: C1 interior ordering sequence to the finish line?

Jill, Some good info below in similar threads, it’s a mid year but should be close to the same. Anything that attaches to firewall would be first I would think.

[Jill J.]

Re: C1 interior ordering sequence to the finish line?

Thanks Terry and Edward. Guess what I'll be doing this weekend?

Jill, 59140

[Richard M.]

Re: C1 interior ordering sequence to the finish line?

Jill I have a detailed list somewhere here and some special info on the heater cover/pass kick panel assembly. There are at least 2 ways to do it, without damage. I'll get it later or in the morning.

Is you heater box installed, wiper transmissions and all underdash wiring, hood cables, E-brake, etc, etc done? That's important before any interior work.

Rich
edit A few links to help for now....

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...t=heater+cover

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...t=heater+cover

[Keith R.]

Re: C1 interior ordering sequence to the finish line?

If I recall correctly:

1. Attach wind lace on the kick panels while on the bench
2. Install carpet (Consider laying down heat/sound barrier material first.)
3. Attach heater extension cover to the right hand kick panel while on the bench. (per Mike Colletta's post in Rich Mozzetta's second link)
4. Install heater extension cover/right kick panel assembly. (Protect the center console with thick plastic per Rich's guidance.)
5. Install upper and lower center console trim
5. Install the package tray
6. Install left hand kick panel
7. Install door panels
8. Install threshold sill plates
9. Install seats

As Rich Mozzetta advises, make sure that all the under dash work is complete and wires routed correctly before finishing the interior.

[Jill J.]

Re: C1 interior ordering sequence to the finish line?

Hi Rich.

Yes I have all of my underdash items installed that you mentioned above, including the heater cover. Basically everything is in under the dash except the package tray, kick panels, windlacing and carpet. I read the threads you posted and it looks like I may have to remove the heater cover so it'll fit in properly with the kick panel. I had to fiberglass some of the holes today where my kick panel attaches since they were wallowed out and im going to tackle the carpet installation tomorrow. Before i install the carpet, im going to dry fit the kick panels in to see if I need to make any needed adjustments first. I'll keep you posted on how it turns out.

Jill, 59140

P.S. Got my power top working with the help from one of your videos (YouTube, I think). It works great! Thanks for all of your technical advice. You help make things go a lot smoother when we're doing it for the first time.

[Jill J.]

Re: C1 interior ordering sequence to the finish line?

If I recall correctly:

1. Attach wind lace on the kick panels while on the bench
2. Install carpet (Consider laying down heat/sound barrier material first.)
3. Attach heater extension cover to the right hand kick panel while on the bench. (per Mike Colletta's post in Rich Mozzetta's second link)
4. Install heater extension cover/right kick panel assembly. (Protect the center console with thick plastic per Rich's guidance.)
5. Install upper and lower center console trim
5. Install the package tray
6. Install left hand kick panel
7. Install door panels
8. Install threshold sill plates
9. Install seats

As Rich Mozzetta advises, make sure that all the under dash work is complete and wires routed correctly before finishing the interior.

Thank you Keith.

Jill, 59140

[Terry D.]

Re: C1 interior ordering sequence to the finish line?

Jill
Just remember when you dry fit the kick panels lay an old piece of carpet down as the kick panels sit on top of the carpet.

[Richard M.]

Re: C1 interior ordering sequence to the finish line?

Jill, Yes you have to remove the heater cover now as you cannot get the kick panel in with it installed. As Terry mentioned yes very important to test fit the kick panel with a carpet thickness there.

Keith's ordering list is accurate and the order I've used. Carpet MUST be installed at least on the pass side floor before the kick panel. One caveat about attaching the heater cover to the kick panel first, vs after kick panel, is it can make it a bit tighter to install the assembly. I've done it both ways on many cars since each car is a "little" different.

Here's a synopsis of both methods:

Method 1 - Heater cover after kick panel installation

The problem here is reaching and holding the lower flat-nuts behind the installed kick panel after the heater cover is carefully placed in position. The upper screw is hidden but somewhat easy to get at. However the holes in the kick panel are factory enlarged to allow some screw placement adjustments. One other thing I've done is to hold the flat nut in place with some dum-dum(3M black strip caulk, or similar). You just have to slowly get the screw started by hand and hope the flat nut stays. Problem here is later, if you have to remove it, it'll likely fall but you can recover it when the kick is out. Why would you have to remove it later one would ask? .....

.... because you got caught in a heavy downpour and your floor got soaking wet and you need to pull your "UNGLUED"* carpet out to dry it in the sun after using a wet-vac to get the puddles out of the floor, or pull the plastic drain plugs in the floor under your * carpet. Been there on my own '59 several times.

(*expect a judging hit but it'll be worth it some day)

Heater Cover
P2170125.jpgP2170126.jpg

View of attachment flanges to kick panel(foreground)
P2170128.jpg

Right kick panel showing detents for heater cover attach points
P2170115.jpg



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Method 2 - Heater cover pre-attached to kick panel

The heater cover is attached to the kick panel using 2 screws and 2 flat nuts. As mentioned above some cars may make this a bit harder. The width from the right hinge pillar to the center radio/heater console can vary car to car, some less than others. You'll only find out when you try this method. On some cars I had to remove it after fear of breakage or paint damage to the center/radio console and reverted to Method 1.

Preattached method worked on this car
P7180009.jpg

Rear view showing flatnuts. You could use washers and machine screws also but not AIM "typical".
P7180010.jpg

P7180011.jpg

Completed
P7180022.jpg

DSCN3301.jpg


Dash end cap, kick panel windlace tuck, and pad trim detail
P7180023.jpg
Note door pillar rain gutters were installed before paint at St Louis. These were missing on this car but installed after car repaint so I match painted screws later.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

With either method it's important to protect the center console paint so I use the thick plastic bag sandwiched between pieces for insurance. Ensure the 3 J-nuts are properly installed and tightly clamped in the center console vertical detent strip. You don't want them to slip off while jogging the heater cover flange over them. Test fit the screws also. Also be careful you don't push that left edge of the cover "flap" too far forward past the deten of the console. If you do you start all aver again.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Kick Panel Trim and Windlace assembly . Here is a sequence of restoration photos which may help your assembly. You may have to trim the repro metals in the upper corners for proper fit. Use caution when attaching the panel rearward upper screw to not overtighten as the panel upper fiberglass is very thin and prone to damage if overtightened.
P6100001.jpgP6100002.jpgP6100003.jpgP6100004.jpgP6100005.jpgP6100006.jpgP6100007.jpgP6100008.jpgP6100009.jpgP6100010.jpgP6100011.jpgP6100012.jpgP6100013.jpgP6100014.jpgP6100015.jpgP6100016.jpgP6100017.jpgP6100018.jpgP6100019.jpgP6100020.jpgP6100021.jpgP6100022.jpgPC180011.jpgPC180012.jpgPC180013.jpgPC180014.jpgPC180015.jpgPC180016.jpg



Rich

=====

[Jill J.]

Re: C1 interior ordering sequence to the finish line?

Jill, Yes you have to remove the heater cover now as you cannot get the kick panel in with it installed. As Terry mentioned yes very important to test fit the kick panel with a carpet thickness there.

Keith's ordering list is accurate and the order I've used. Carpet MUST be installed at least on the pass side floor before the kick panel. One caveat about attaching the heater cover to the kick panel first, vs after kick panel, is it can make it a bit tighter to install the assembly. I've done it both ways on many cars since each car is a "little" different.

Here's a synopsis of both methods:

Method 1 - Heater cover after kick panel installation

The problem here is reaching and holding the lower flat-nuts behind the installed kick panel after the heater cover is carefully placed in position. The upper screw is hidden but somewhat easy to get at. However the holes in the kick panel are factory enlarged to allow some screw placement adjustments. One other thing I've done is to hold the flat nut in place with some dum-dum(3M black strip caulk, or similar). You just have to slowly get the screw started by hand and hope the flat nut stays. Problem here is later, if you have to remove it, it'll likely fall but you can recover it when the kick is out. Why would you have to remove it later one would ask? .....

.... because you got caught in a heavy downpour and your floor got soaking wet and you need to pull your "UNGLUED"* carpet out to dry it in the sun after using a wet-vac to get the puddles out of the floor, or pull the plastic drain plugs in the floor under your * carpet. Been there on my own '59 several times.

Heater Cover
[ATTACH=CONFIG]102653[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]102654[/ATTACH]

View of attachment flanges to kick panel(foreground)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]102655[/ATTACH]

Right kick panel showing detents for heater cover attach points
[ATTACH=CONFIG]102656[/ATTACH]



---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Method 2 - Heater cover pre-attached to kick panel

The heater cover is attached to the kick panel using 2 screws and 2 flat nuts. As mentioned above some cars may make this a bit harder. The width from the right hinge pillar to the center radio/heater console can vary car to car, some less than others. You'll only find out when you try this method. On some cars I had to remove it after fear of breakage or paint damage to the center/radio console and reverted to Method 1.

Preattached method worked on this car
[ATTACH=CONFIG]102658[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]102659[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]102660[/ATTACH]

Completed
[ATTACH=CONFIG]102657[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]102661[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]102662[/ATTACH]
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

With either method it's important to protect the center console paint so I use the thick plastic bag for insurance. Ensure the 3 J-nuts are properly installed (and tightly clamped) in the center console vertical detent strip. You don't want them to slip off while jogging the heater cover over them. Test fit the screws also. Also be careful you don't push that left edge of the cover "flap" too far forward past the dent of the console. If you do you start all aver again.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

*expect a judging hit but it'll be worth it some day

Kick Panel Windlace. Here is a sequence of photos which may help assembly.


(add pics later)




Rich

=====

Hi Rich.

Luckily I don't have my heater cover installed just yet. I thought you were referring to the actual heater. So I guess I'm in better shape than I thought.

Also, I noticed you stated *unglued* carpet. Am I not supposed to use any adhesive spray on the underneath of any of the carpet during the carpet installation?

Jill, 59140

[Richard M.]

Re: C1 interior ordering sequence to the finish line?

Hi Rich.

Luckily I don't have my heater cover installed just yet. I thought you were referring to the actual heater. So I guess I'm in better shape than I thought.

Also, I noticed you stated *unglued* carpet. Am I not supposed to use any adhesive spray on the underneath of any of the carpet during the carpet installation?

Jill, 59140

Jill, Ok good.

Original carpet was glued to the floor. You 'may" get a small deduct if it's noticed they're not glued. The problem is that if it's glued down you will tear off the foam backing to pieces and ruin it IF you ever need to remove it. A small price to pay for a costly replacement later. I'm recommending no glue but it's your decision.

The only piece I glue in my restorations is the small tunnel piece between the seats. All other pieces are held in by trims, shifter, sill plates, front floor tunnel/inner corner trim screws, etc.

A reminder JIC.... Careful with any screws going through carpet. The screw can unravel the carpet loops. Use a method to open the holes in the carpet before screw placement. i.e. soldering iron tip or hole punch or X-Acto blade made hole, etc.
Rich
PS I added more info and lotsa pics of the kick panel assy to the previous post.

[Jill J.]

Re: C1 interior ordering sequence to the finish line?

Jill, Ok good.

Original carpet was glued to the floor. You 'may" get a small deduct if it's noticed they're not glued. The problem is that if it's glued down you will tear off the foam backing to pieces and ruin it IF you ever need to remove it. A small price to pay for a costly replacement later. I'm recommending no glue but it's your decision.

The only piece I glue in my restorations is the small tunnel piece between the seats. All other pieces are held in by trims, shifter, sill plates, front floor tunnel/inner corner trim screws, etc.

A reminder JIC.... Careful with any screws going through carpet. The screw can unravel the carpet loops. Use a method to open the holes in the carpet before screw placement. i.e. soldering iron tip or hole punch or X-Acto blade made hole, etc.
Rich
PS I added more info and lotsa pics of the kick panel assy to the previous post.

Ok great Rich. I'll only glue the tunnel piece per your recommendation since you've had a little more experience with this than me 😁 And THANKS for all of the extra pictures you've provided, especially those with the windlacing pre-installed onto the kick panels This really helps a lot!! Well, guess I'd better get started since I'm burning daylight...

Thanks to everyone for their input! Everyone is always so helpful on this forum. I'm proud to be a member!

Jill, 59140

[Keith R.]

Re: C1 interior ordering sequence to the finish line?

I understand that certain Judges will pull up on the center of the carpet to see if it is glued down. I used Velcro in the centers of the floor pan and foot rest areas.

Ok great Rich. I'll only glue the tunnel piece per your recommendation since you've had a little more experience with this than me  And THANKS for all of the extra pictures you've provided, especially those with the windlacing pre-installed onto the kick panels This really helps a lot!! Well, guess I'd better get started since I'm burning daylight...

Thanks to everyone for their input! Everyone is always so helpful on this forum. I'm proud to be a member!

Jill, 59140