Questions for body shop

[Larry M.]

Re: Questions for body shop


Patrick,

Thanks for that explanation. I mistakenly believed that the header bar was riveted to the header panel, and that the rivet heads were then fiberglassed over.

[Larry M.]

Re: Questions for body shop

When was the last time the car was painted?
I am assuming that is not the original lacquer given the lack of any visible checking, maybe enamel looking at the paint texture.

IF you had it done long ago.
Was any body damage present, prior to last paint?
FWIW
I don't see any visible stress cracks around the headlamp openings, if the body lacks stress cracks in the normal places where they typically develop, there are no panels being rebonded or new panels being bonded into the car and you are currently happy with the gaps, panel alignment, as well as the fit of the bumpers, and grilles then the job is really not too involved for someone who paints C3's. UNLESS there is prior damage which is not visible currently.

James,

We bought the car in 1982, and the seller (at least the second owner, but possibly higher than that) told me it had been repainted in the last year, so if he was correct, the repaint is from 1981. I don't know if it's lacquer or enamel. I have spoken to the original owner and he confirmed an accident early in his ownership; I 'm not sure of the extent. Whether or not any body damage was present prior to the 1981 repaint, I don't know.

BTW, it would have been interesting to own a car built on your birthday. However, considering that particular example was a basket case, I think you made the right call.

[Terry M.]

Re: Questions for body shop

Larry
The pictures you provide show a paint job that is not too bad. If you do not intend to show the car you will have to decide what you can live with, and what you can afford. If you are determined to proceed, you might want to consider a shop that has experience with fiberglass repair. Do you really want this shop to learn using your car?

The best method for repairing the rivet pops is to remove the header bar from underneath the nose. Separate the two parts of the bar by removing the offending rivets, and then bond the two pieces together with a modern adhesive designed for metal to metal bonding. Then the header bar should be attached back in place (as close to the exact place as possible) with a modern adhesive designed to bond metal to fiberglass.

Before you ask what products to use I have to point out I have never done this operation, nor would I attempt to do it. I have been told this is the process by people I know who have done it. I will leave it to them to respond here if they chose to. Since this is their livelihood you might understand why they might chose not to reveal "trade secrets." Additionally I believe this operation requires some skill that is gained by doing it several times. There is a learning curve here. The fifth or sixth time one does this it will come out better than the first time.

[Tom L.]

Re: Questions for body shop

A "Pewter AG" (my license plate, AG being the chemical designation for silver) car, nice! Only have seen 4 in person, and another that the owner was selling but when he saw the paint in the can prior to spraying he said the color looked like the Statue of Liberty so he went another direction. Made me nervous since my car was in the shop getting towards the paint stage.

When I dropped by the shop he showed me the paint in "the pail". Looked a lot like the statue of liberty, he said he had similar concerns. He saved a piece of an original panel (which had to be replaced) and put it next to the paint in the light and shade. The color, and characteristics of it in shade vs. sunlight were the same. Fast forward. Looks great, too shiny and no orange peel. No judging here either. I like it so that's what matters. Great color, good luck with the job!!

[Larry M.]

Re: Questions for body shop

Tom,

I've seen three other pewter cars, one with a black interior, and two with red like ours. I've also seen a pewter Nova.