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rear main seal

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  • Bruce W.
    Very Frequent User
    • June 30, 1997
    • 358

    rear main seal

    Hey guys,
    Looks like I need to replace the rear main seal on my 65 fuel car. could use some guidance. Which seal is the best? I believe there is a tool i can buy to remove the old seal. Anyone know where I can buy this. Also any advice on how to do this? Is this a typical problem on 327 blocks. I have 3 ci's none have that problem? thanks for your help.
    Bruce
  • Leif A.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • August 31, 1997
    • 3601

    #2
    Re: rear main seal

    Bruce,
    Great threads in the "similar threads" section at the bottom of this page.
    Leif
    '67 Coupe L79, M21, C60, N14, N40, J50, A31, U69, A01, QB1
    Top Flight 2017 Lone Star Regional

    Comment

    • Edward D.
      Expired
      • October 25, 2014
      • 206

      #3
      Re: rear main seal

      Bruce,
      You don't need a special tool to remove the upper half of the old seal. I use a small soft brass drift to push it up and roll around to where I can get pliers on the other end and pull it out. The special tool for installation (a little plastic shoehorn) is included with every new seal; you do want to use that.

      Comment

      • Jim D.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • June 30, 1985
        • 2882

        #4
        Re: rear main seal

        Not to scare you because I've replaced several by simply tapping out the upper portion of the seal with no issue BUT, on my 65 coupe (original seal with 60K miles), the seal had "become one with the block". Fortunately this was done on an engine stand and I ended up having to pull the crank and forcibly remove the seal in many, many pieces. Hope you have better luck.

        Comment

        • Edward D.
          Expired
          • October 25, 2014
          • 206

          #5
          Re: rear main seal

          In the unlikely event the upper seal half won't push out there is one other thing you can do. Loosen all of the other bearing cap to block bolts which will allow the crankshaft to drop slightly. It is then easier to tap out the seal, and clean the block mating surface. Don't forget to tighten and retorque to spec. I've run into situations where seals were installed with hard sealant into the block and cap on the outer surface of the seal. Then you have to remove all of that crap with sealant solvents & soft scrapers & picks. Don't put any sealant on the outer diameter of any rear main seal. Doing so will only cause future pain for whoever has to replace it next. The seal itself has a back bead that is designed to do that sealing.

          Comment

          • Bruce W.
            Very Frequent User
            • June 30, 1997
            • 358

            #6
            Re: rear main seal

            thanks Ed
            Bruce

            Comment

            • William F.
              Extremely Frequent Poster
              • June 9, 2009
              • 1354

              #7
              Re: rear main seal

              I reread some of the previous posts. Confused in that one said "doesn't need sealant, already there" but went on to say "use an anaerobic sealant," Where to use sealant if it's already o new seal?

              Comment

              • Edward D.
                Expired
                • October 25, 2014
                • 206

                #8
                Re: rear main seal

                You use the anaerobic sealant on the top metal surface of the main cap. NOT on the end of the rubber seal itself which is pretreated to bond together.

                Comment

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