After using my head lights last night they would not retract. What should I look at before ordering parts? What fuse governs the switch.
65 Head light retraction
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Re: 65 Head light retraction
Hi Bob!
I had the same problem many years ago. Several things come to mind - assuming it is switch related (not a wiring harness issue).
First, off - I can't remember what fuse it is - but obviously, if that's blown - that's an easy fix!
Option #1
In my case, it was not the fuse, but rather the contact points in the guts of the rocker switch.
They can foul as a result of the repeated arcing when electrical contact is made (there's a lot of juice going to those headlights). kinda the same thing you'd see on a set of old points in a distributor. Here's what I did:
Remove the switch - I checked mine with a continuity tester (Common to UP and Common to Down) to see if I was getting good conductivity. (PS - don't forget to operate the chrome finger tab (the switch) fully forward and backward while you test).
I was not getting consistent conductivity (or none at all - can't remember), so...if you are not as well...
Take the switch apart - two steel "spring pinch-clips" hold the guts into the back of the switch
Depress the "spring tang" holding the pinch-clip to the side of switch body (see shot #1) hard to do both at the same time, but you'll eventually get it...
Once the plastic assembly is removed from the metal housing, my recollection is there's a copper "rocker" piece that pushes the contacts to their respective positions (up or down). It will just fall out as I recall (don't worry, it's easy to reassemble).
Dress up your contact points - file (or sand?) them flat on both sides removing corrosion and/or "arc flash" so good electrical contact can be made.
Check again with continuity tester - reinstall and test if the above works to improve you conductivity...
Option #2
If all of the above doesn't work, I guess you can buy a replacement switch
Good luck...hope this helps
Mark
1 HeadLamp Switch DSCN6520.jpg2 HeadLamp Switch DSCN6518.jpg
Good luckthx,
Mark- Top
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Re: 65 Head light retraction
There is a little wheel about the size of a quarter on the motor that you can turn. If you haven't used them in a while, they need to be recycled a few times. Open the hood and place a long screwdriver thru the bracket hole so the hood won't close on you. Reach your hand under to the wheel and turn it. See it just below the wire plug to the left.- Top
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Re: 65 Head light retraction
A quick check you can do once you get the connector off is to jumper the contacts on the connector. If I remember correctly the center one is hot and the other two are for up or down. If they work by this method then the switch is at fault.
Another thing to try is that I found that when I had this problem on my '63 what usually worked as a stop gap while I was waiting for a new switch was to put some upward pressure on the switch itself while holding it in the open and closed position. In my case the plastic or bakelite rocker on the inside was too worn to move the contacts together. The last time I actually saw a repair kit or parts for these switches was at Long Island Corvette and it was many many years ago. As far as I know your only option if a good clean up does not solve the problem is a new switch.Golf is for those who can't play hockey.- Top
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Re: 65 Head light retraction
Excellent points, Norm
I also did both of what you say above on mine when I was having problems...
What I noticed was how much faster mine rotated Up and Down when I jumped it with a short hunk of 12-gauge house wiring stripped on both ends. WOW - never knew they could move that fast!
As for your second point - I had to push up on my switch so hard to make random and unreliable contacts - at one point I thought surely I would break the switch...but you're right (and once you see the guts, you know why) more pressure (and a little "wiggling" while you do it) can make it work.thx,
Mark- Top
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Re: 65 Head light retraction
The wiring for the headlight UP and DOWN goes thru the firewall bulkhead connector. Check that these are secure and not pulled out.
When I had my headlight rollover issues a few years back, this is what it turned out to be. One of the connector plugs had come loose. The holding clips for the connector block are not very good and can release over time.
Larry- Top
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Re: 65 Head light retraction
Robert, I have another write up on the repair of the switch - send me an email and I can attach it for you. The pictures will not show on the web site and are worth having to understanding the write up.
Also the bulkhead connectors are a concern especially if you have a repo harness. If original would be surprised if that was the problem.
The after market connectors have been a source of causing various problems (I contribute to low quality)
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Re: 65 Head light retraction
Robert, I have another write up on the repair of the switch - send me an email and I can attach it for you. The pictures will not show on the web site and are worth having to understanding the write up.
Also the bulkhead connectors are a concern especially if you have a repo harness. If original would be surprised if that was the problem.
The after market connectors have been a source of causing various problems (I contribute to low quality)
But I agree with the issues regarding reproduction of anything.
Larry- Top
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Re: 65 Head light retraction
You might not like the repro switches - the one I received had terrible font for the HEADLIGHT word on the face along with being barely white enough to stand out. I wound up using my original housing with the "guts" from the repro.
Headlight bucket operation generally fails for one (or more) of 3 reasons: 1) Electrical connections, 2) Galled main gear inside the motor, and, 3) Congealed grease in the motor that has turned to clay over the years.
The thumbwheel backup mechanism on the motors is a hoot, by the time you open BOTH buckets with those tiny wheels, it will be daylight and you won't need the headlights to drive home...- Top
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