1971 - Protecting original lacquer from gas fumes

[Billy S.]

Hello all, I have a 1971 red base motor car in original lacquer. As some of you know I really like to drive it (10,000 miles a year). Of course this means I do a lot of filling up with 93.

The problem comes when it's humid. When it's humid the gas fumes tend to condense and land on the paint surrounding the filler, and when it does I can't remove the resulting haze unless I wax the area. I figure that I shouldn't be waxing the same area of the car over and over and over again as I do get a red rag every time.

Is there a finish I can apply like ceramic coating or something which would make the paint much less susceptible to hazing from gas fumes? My number one goal is to avoid changing anything about the appearance of the car. Or is it just safer for me to remember every time to surround the filler area with rags to absorb the gas fumes each time I fill up?

Thanks! Billy

[Patrick H.]

Re: 1971 - Protecting original lacquer from gas fumes

Billy,

Would it help to not fill it quite so full?
And, if you ignore it, does the haze go away as the area dries? Or is it still there the next day?

[Billy S.]

Re: 1971 - Protecting original lacquer from gas fumes

Hi Patrick,

The haze stays until waxed. Also the pump is more responsible then the gas tank. But you do have a good point for those pumps with the rubber guards, they'll at least seal.

[Bill S.]

Re: 1971 - Protecting original lacquer from gas fumes

Seems like the fumes are reacting with the wax rather than the paint. This is why re-waxing works, it removes the damaged wax, but since it is single stage paint it also removes a bit of paint. Couple of things i would try:

First I would get a quality very dense microfiber towel (maybe one of the waffle weaves) 24"X24" in the center I would I would make a X a bit smaller than the inside diameter of the fuel filler neck and then cut the X so you have 4 quarters. Open the filler door, remove the cap and then place the towel over the door and tuck the quarters down into the filler area, any fumes will fall on the towel and stay off the paint. Of course you'll have to wash it every once in a while.

What kind of wax are you using? How old is it? You may want to try a modern synthetic wax. I would also use a "quick detailer" product rather than a wax to clean the gas fumes off and save the paint.

[Billy S.]

Re: 1971 - Protecting original lacquer from gas fumes

Thats a good technique Bill. Interesting theory on the wax becoming hazy as opposed to the paint.

The wax is Adam's yellow butter smelling wax. Its fairly new, no more then 2 years, I think just 1 year old. A quick detailer doesn't work... it won't remove the haze.

Regardless a custom made fume catcher would probably save time and be a reliable solution.

[Dave S.]

Re: 1971 - Protecting original lacquer from gas fumes

Bill,
Keep driving. How about considering a clear Expel wrap material on the decklid. That material is commonly used on newer cars and protects the paint very well. You can stop it at the edges and ridges. It is removable.

[Billy S.]

Re: 1971 - Protecting original lacquer from gas fumes

I would imagine on 49.5 year old lacquer the expel wrap wouldn't really be removable. I have the beginning parts of paint lifting (maybe just cracking), but I imagine anything sticky like that would pull it up. Unless someone knows for sure about modern coatings (ceramic, others?) I think I should just do what Bill and Patrick suggested.... make a better fume catcher, and don't expose the fuel to the air as much by putting the pump further down the filler neck.

[Gary J.]

Re: 1971 - Protecting original lacquer from gas fumes

How about using the rubberized gas fill paint protector sold by the corvette parts supply house's.
you place it over the deck lid while filling the tank and then remove.
Good luck, Gary

[James G.]

Re: 1971 - Protecting original lacquer from gas fumes

Do not stick anything to the paint... it will most likely remove at least little chips in any areas where there is any checking.

I paint vintage cars in addition I have an original paint Brandshatch Green LT1 and have had numerous original paint cars, lacquer as well as enamel -
I also believe the gas is reacting, is it zero ethanol 93, ethanol would without doubt strip the wax off.


You say it is more likely the pump not the gas tank... referring to the pump handle? or swivel at the handle hose connection?

Reason I ask is I have a 71 and when I fill it up, I don't put the handle close to the car,

From a driver side pump: the hose is coming over my right shoulder holding the handle with right hand, I hold the handle up with the end of the nozzle only an inch or so below the tank neck connection so I can look into the tank while the fuel is going in, however in hindsight this keeps the nozzle tube dry... when it gets within an inch or two of the end of the gas stream I stop.

[Ron G.]

Re: 1971 - Protecting original lacquer from gas fumes

I am not a paint expert, but I agree with James in that I would not stick anything to lacquer paint especially if it is original. My advise for what it is worth would be to lay down soft cotton towels around the gas filler door and lay on the deck lid. Also, throw one over the bask side of the fuel lid door. That is how I do it and I never had a problem.

[Billy S.]

Re: 1971 - Protecting original lacquer from gas fumes

I've been following Bill Strobel's advice for the past few months -- I carry a microfiber which I cut an X into which I tuck into the filler area and that keeps the fumes from the pump away from the paint and on to the towel. I can then fill the car all the way and not have to worry about the fumes from filling it.

[Mark F.]

Re: 1971 - Protecting original lacquer from gas fumes

.....You say it is more likely the pump not the gas tank... referring to the pump handle? or swivel at the handle hose connection?

Reason I ask is I have a 71 and when I fill it up, I don't put the handle close to the car,

From a driver side pump: the hose is coming over my right shoulder holding the handle with right hand, I hold the handle up with the end of the nozzle only an inch or so below the tank neck connection so I can look into the tank while the fuel is going in, however in hindsight this keeps the nozzle tube dry... when it gets within an inch or two of the end of the gas stream I stop.

James (and others),

As stated in the attached link below, static electricity discharges during fueling are not extremely common, but they do happen. I learned this about "grounding and bonding" requirements for paint and solvent containers in industry.

So, here's what I do while I'm fueling:

1. When fueling directly from a gas station pump, I always make sure the metal pump dispensing nozzle is in direct contact with the metal ring of the filler pipe - if there's any static, it is conducted thru the metal w/o having a "spark" potential because of that direct contact

2. When fueling from a portable plastic gas jug, I use a funnel - the funnel stem is in direct contact with the metal ring of the filler pipe - and the lip of the plastic jug is in direct contact with the rim of the funnel (harder to do than step 1, but it is what it is).

As for paint protection, I tuck a towel down in - and surrounding the filler pipe opening because in variably, you'll always have errant drops of gas going exactly where you don't want them to go..

Definitely more of a problem during cold, non-humid weather, but I do it all of the time as a matter of habit and safe practice.

Stay safe and be well!

https://www.api.org/oil-and-natural-gas/consumer-information/consumer-resources/staying-safe-pump