Remove 67 Only Dash

[John C.]

Need some advice on this! Working to remove the dash from my 67. 67's dash's are different due to a new collapsible absorbing column and have nothing in common with 63-66 columns that are held in place by a muffler style clamp. Although, I have undone (4) 1/2" bolts that hold the large cross piece & (3) 9/12" bolts that hold the new design column to the cross piece, I can't get the column to drop more than 5/8". I see that by using the (5) 1/4" bolts that I can move the dash out some what but because of the large column cross pieces it is extra hard to get at things? Rather not try and remove column but will!
Any help or hints are greatly appreciated!!!

[Tom E.]

Re: Remove 67 Only Dash

The column is still supported by the firewall bracket, however leaving the the steering column suspended without support can damage the bearings. Removal of the steering column is highly recommended to prevent gouging the column and easing the removal of the Guage pod. You can find a few good articles in the sticky section or one here.

http://www.adirondackncrs.com/cluster.html

Tom

[John C.]

Re: Remove 67 Only Dash

Tom, I read the very good article by Bill Schroeder, you mentioned. From the engine compartment it appears (from the master cylinder) that the removal was done on a 66 and not a 67 with the collapsible steering column change? I am still unclear if the under-hood/rag joint are different on a 67 because of the column change?
Thanks, John

[Tom E.]

Re: Remove 67 Only Dash

John,
There are slight differences in the the joints between 63-67 but those differences do not affect the removal process. I would make match marks on both the steering shaft and the rag joint so you get them back in the same exact location to avoid issues later. I would also highly recommend the Chevrolet Chassis Service Manual available for under $30. Money well spent.
Tom

[Frank D.]

Re: Remove 67 Only Dash

Member John Hinckley long ago published a two part article on dash removal covering 63-67 including the unique items for each year... I think there are better copies lurking around but these are the ones I have.

[Richard M.]

Re: Remove 67 Only Dash

The 1967 column is collapsible so you don't want to put extra downward pressure on it. It can break the casing meshed tube.

This is a early 1967 with the first design column. Some photos of a different car for reference. The 2nd design column has a different lower bearing design but removal of either column design is similar. I had to remove and repair this column as it was damaged from past owners using the steering wheel as a assist bar. The mesh was broken.

These are the basic removal steps. ...

In the engine bay, remove the steering coupler pinch bolt at the column shaft end. You may want to put a witness mark at the shaft to coupler joint to simplify reinstallation adjustments.
P3120021.jpg


Tap a chisel or wedge into the coupler split to slightly relieve it's clamping force on the shaft. This will help when pulling the shaft from the coupler if the splines on the coupler or shaft are rusted. This is also helpful if working alone.
P3120023.jpg


At the firewall area, remove the clamp bolt and release the clamp from the firewall brace and mast jacket. Spread the clamp open a bit and leave it loosely there for removal later.
P3250004.jpg


Remove the 3 bolts securing the firewall brace. One bolt will have a hook attached for the clutch cross shaft return spring if manual transmission.
P3250003.jpg P3120022.jpg


Under the dash, unplug the directional switch harness connector from the dash harness mating connector. It should be clipped to the pedal brace up high near the firewall. This will be a ribbon cable terminating at a curved black connector. Carefully pry the lock tabs apart when disconnecting it. Connector may be brown if a replacement directional switch.
PC250002.jpg P2110075.jpg


Remove the 2 screws holding the column escutcheon to the cluster.
p3120024.jpg


Remove the 3 bolts/nuts securing the column to the pedal brace. (I reinstalled the bolts to the brace in this photo)
P3120031.jpg


For reference.....The 3 underdash mount locations have slotted holes in the mount as well as the pedal brace. This is for adjustment of the column. Because the pedal brace is angled, this adjustment allows horizontal & vertical movement of the column to align the escutcheon to cluster when reinstalling.
P3120027.jpg P7140034.jpg


Now you can slide the entire column assembly toward the rear. The shaft should pull out of the steering coupler easily if your chisel or wedge is still being held. If you have a helper he/she can catch the firewall brace and column clamp as you remove the column while inside the cabin.

Now you can remove the cluster, dash, etc.

Before & After of this one.
P3140016.jpg P3180037.jpg

When reinstalling the column, as you insert it into the firewall, don't forget to install these 3 items over the column..... seal, firewall brace, column clamp. You may want a helper to hold the assembly in the cabin while you reattach it there. Reinsert the shaft into the steering coupler end ensuring the flat of the shaft will align with the pinch bolt. Reassemble the underdash area then the firewall area.
P3250001.jpg P3250002.jpg P3250005.jpg

===

[John C.]

Re: Remove 67 Only Dash

Richard; Thanks so much for that great post ... it answered all of my questions!
John

[Richard M.]

Re: Remove 67 Only Dash

John, I mistakenly said 3 bolts for the firewall brace/plate with separate clamp. Only 2 bolts and the clamp is part of the plate. You have to spread the clamp open a bit to get it off the column.

P3180016.jpg

Also, you'll probably need a new seal(shown below) for it when reinstalling. There is also a plastic tube which covers the mesh.
P3180035.jpg

P3180030.jpg

P3180036.jpg

Keep in mind that there are 2 pieces to make up the shaft. Lower end is solid, upper end is hollow. When removing the column make sure you don't separate them.

Rich