62 Lower Radiator Hose Replacement help?

[Gregory C.]

I am seeking some one who has had experience with replacement of the lower radiator hose / clamps.
Does the fan shroud need to be removed with the 5 screws and then manually removed so that access is possible to the lower radiator outlet?
I could use some expertise / help before I undertake potential removal of unnecessary parts (fan shroud or radiator). All the other cooling / heater hose / expansion tank hoses have been replaced and the cooling system is "dry".
Gregory Cesario (2907)

[Mike E.]

Re: 62 Lowr Rad'tor Hose Repl

It is an unpleasant job however you do it. I would not remove the lower shroud because the small dished-head bolts love to break off. I install the hose clamp for the radiator end on the end of the hose before I attach the hose there. Make sure you situate the tower clamp so you can get at it to tighten it later on. Similar advice for the water pump end before you slide that up and on. Practice unused 4-letter words in your vocabulary. Use some lubricant on each end of the hose as you prepare to slide it on. Remember, this is fun!

[Gregory C.]

Re: 62 Lowr Rad'tor Hose Repl

It is an unpleasant job however you do it. I would not remove the lower shroud because the small dished-head bolts love to break off. I install the hose clamp for the radiator end on the end of the hose before I attach the hose there. Make sure you situate the tower clamp so you can get at it to tighten it later on. Similar advice for the water pump end before you slide that up and on. Practice unused 4-letter words in your vocabulary. Use some lubricant on each end of the hose as you prepare to slide it on. Remember, this is fun!

Gregg Cesario (2907) says: Mike, I recall your name from when I first joined the NCRS back in 1980! You went by Rev. Mike Ernst at the time. I also have a copies of your 1961-1962 Matured Machine series articles with "The Dating Game", "Bringing Up the Rear", "Radiator Caps", "Hardtop Identification" to name a few. As soon as teh DVD is available again from the store, I want to get the specific articles for the 1962 year so I can first check any specific projects I am about to undertake.

I had thought of the breakage of the small bolts so I ordered the correct 5 required as back up. Without access to a lift and relegated to a creeper with the front of the car on jack stands in my garage, I think the "back up" screws plus any unbroken ones from what is present will offset the breakage risk to "go in from the top".

In order to make my strategy more workable, I also planned to simultaneously replace the fan belt with a "correct one". My plan was to remove the fan belt first, then the shroud would give me more work area / access to the lower radiator male radiator outlet. I had replaced the original leaking aluminum radiator with a copper version a while back when I had the engine out of the car.

One more thing, do you recall the lower radiator male outlet to be perpendicular or horizontal to the ground? I had already selected my complete, repetitive used list of 4 letter words while recently working on the car - just for fun of course!

Somewhat unrelated question - about the many aluminum harness locations. After installing the one long aluminum strap under generator heater hose forward of the cad plated mounting bracket, there are 10 more of these to be placed. I know one of them goes around radiator expansion tank and the expansion tank overflow hose but that leaves 9 remaining. Is there one source you can point me to that that describes the placement location of the balance? I have the 7 clear plastic clips for the horn, wiper, washer hoses and have the same one location source for those if you can help.

Thanks in advance
Gregg Cesario
561 265-8851
GreggCesario@aol.com

[Gregory C.]

Re: 62 Lower Radiator Hose Replacement help?

After not getting any responses to my request for this project, I went at it by myself. The project broadened however and included replacing all the radiator hoses (upper and lower) and heater hoses (external and internal) along with all the correct hardware. After completing the project, I documented it (along with my mistakes to avoid or suggestions for faster completion) to include parts order in advance of undertaking the project.

My Florida NCRS Chapter elected to publish the work in their most recent issue and you can find the documentation in the most recent issue if you are a FL Chapter NCRS member. If not, here is the entire stand alone "step by step" process is attached in a word document along with useful links to the GM Servicing Manual for 1962 vehicles. I elected to restrict my contribution for this expanded Upper / lower fans hroud, heater hose and radiator hose replacement (plus hardware) project as an intended benefit to only NCRS members / enthusiasts and not share it with any other open discussion boards such as the Corvette Forum. My contact information is below and welcome any comments / suggestions / questions. Good luck !

Sorry, no specific pictures taken during the project process but I will tell you - it takes a while, be ready for additional replacement(s) items and a great deal of patience to include as many bad words as you want! Heaven only knows, the walls of my garage heard ALL there were to say !

1962 Corvette 327 340 HP

Replacing Heater and Cooling Hoses

By Gregg Cesario (GreggCesario@aol.com)

561 265-8851

Heater hose parts kit ~$52
Spring clamps (kits are available for each year to include all needed upper and lower clamps);
o One larger size spring clamp under fender (I used my originals)
o Multiple sizes spring clamps at heater core connection (I used my originals)
o Double U suspension clamp mounted under passenger fender (used my original)
Aluminum tie kit (11 pieces, only (1) long one for heater hoses) ~$18
Heater hose generator clamp ~$15
o Overflow hose clip (1) ~$13
o Overflow hose (1) ~$5
o Radiator hose (1) ~$7
Upper radiator hose (1) ~$36
Upper radiator hose thermostat housing ~$65
Upper radiator hose thermostat and gasket ~$8
Lower radiator hose (1) ~$29
o LH (driver side) and RH (passenger side) lower shroud (2) (~$50 each)
o Upper fan shroud (1) (~$190)
o Package of five Step 1 was to drain the cooling system while cold and environmentally store / dispose of the old coolant. I stored it in a 5 gal pail with a snap on lid for safety. The capacity for the system is ~17 quarts so I suggest you be container prepared. After draining I reinserted the petcock and filled the system with water and a scrubbing agent (Radiator Relief Flush (16 oz. from mfg web site @ ~$10). The cooling system was not dry in preparation for all hose replacements and future recharging cooling system recharging. I also purchase Radiator Relief (16 oz. @ ~$10) to lower operating temps by 30 to improve engine efficiency and wear for notoriously hot running engines. Many places offer the same product at often double the price from manufacturer direct. Additionally, I purchased 4 gal of the most inexpensive glycol antifreeze at ~$10 / gal., WalMart. Multiple research articles confirmed antifreeze is antifreeze regardless of brand. When antifreeze is market 50/50 coolant it further lowers boiling and increases freezing temperatures vs straight antifreeze. Since I was going to be adding what I thought to be the real benefit (Radiator Relief Coolant) I saw this as more beneficial to my objective of reducing operating temps and engine efficiency for hot FL use in the summer.
Step 2Removal
Step 3Step 4 began with removal of the upper and lower radiator shroud to get at the lower radiator hose connection at the radiator connection primarily because all the other connections, for the most part, were visible / accessible. The upper shroud consists of 3 large hex head bolts on each side of the shroud (total of 6) If replacement or missing bolds they are available in a package for ~$8. I was missing two bolts so I ordered a replacement package. Remove any other screws holding the upper shroud in place, carefully remembering that which screws go in which locations for easier installation.
Step 5 was to remove the two flanking screws of a five set package. These are two Step 6 was to remove the lower RH shroud (passenger) only providing the next step does not have issues. Three of the five hex head screws (not sheet metal) located in the center will need to be removed in order to separate the RH lower shroud. The welded nuts reside on the LH (driver side) panel and can be left anchored in place provided they are functional. The RH (passenger side) panel overlays onto the LH and matches up with three pre-drilled holds which line up with the nutted (LH) side. For removal (and installation) of these three drive using gentle / firm pressure. Naturally, after being installed for such a long time, all three hex screws promptly snapped off at the head even after I lightly sprayed some WD40 in advance. That necessitated having to order both shrouds for replacement. Additionally, this is where / why ordering a ~$5 package of five lower shroud screws and washers is appropriate even if yours do not shear off. It is a very small investment for back up, IMO. Ideally, you may have some remaining from a successful removal but I chose to get two sets for an additional $5 investment against scrambling for the correct screws / washers.
Step 7the two pieces together in the center.
Step 8 to the radiator like the upper connection, it is significantly less. My estimate is an exclusive < 45

Step 9
Step 10
Step 11 is to gently reach under the passenger side fender and release each hose from it us double U suspension bracket. Now since both ends are free from their respective connections, slowly pull on the larger heater hose from the engine area after it is disconnected from the inside cabin and from the lower water pump connection. If you have a previously installed generator heater hose bracket you may have to help feed each hose through and out of the engine area. If you do not have a generator heater hose bracket installed, removal should be relatively easy drawing from either both or one end. If you are installing a heater hose generator bracket now is the time to perform that installation with the generator arm bar loose the pivoting end generator bolds loosened.

INSTALLATION
Step 1 for my installation was the heater hoses. First, I elected to use a rubber shining agent on the exterior of each hose I was about to install which would make clean up / detailing much easier than after hose installation. I chose to do one heater hose at a time prior to installation. I also lubricated both ends on the ID of the hose to be installed with some WD40 sprayed on a paper / cloth towel wrapped over a finger and used it to lubricate the ID of the hose about to be installed. One last check to be sure the male fittings for the hose are clan of debris / rust or anything that will compromise the seal. Also, in close areas, I suggest sliding on the appropriate clamps in the center of the hose and snugging up so as to not interfere with installation. The heater hoses connected at the water pump are relatively easy to install. Prior to installation, I installed the generator heater hose bracket and now fed both heater hoses through the bracket connecting the water pump connections first but not tightening the tower clamps. Then I fed both hoses up the behind the generator per the assembly manual after removing the fresh air corrugated vent hose leaving the lower end of each (2) retaining bracket lose, yet affixed. I continued feeding both hoses up toward the inside of the passenger fender. The smaller heater hose should be on the near side of the engine and the suspending double U bracket and the larger hose on the other and farther away from the engine and then thought the firewall. Right before pushing it through, I would lubricate the OD of that larger hose with some WD40 to allow it to easily slide through the rubber heater hose grommet firewall. I did not replace the firewall grommet.
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4 was to install the other two heater hoses and spring clamps for the heater core using the same / similar technique.
Step 5 was to go back to the water pump heater hose connections and tighten the two tower clamps making sure to have then positioned to not interfere with fan belt movement. After doing that I also checked for fan belt clearance and made any hand adjustments. I also used the longest aluminum tie strap to insure no interference and placement according to the judging manual just forward of the newly installed generator heater hose bracket.
Step 6
Step 7
Step 8 is simply reversing the process of removal as outlined above taking care to check / secure all the hose connections (heater and radiator). Once completed and before charging the system with antifreeze / coolant, I suggest a trial run charging the cooling system with clean water (~17 quarts) in order to check for leaks under operating temperatures for ~15 minutes. Leaks of plain water are far more recoverable than leaks of sticky, smelly, toxic antifreeze on the floor or worse, in the cabin.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/5362csg/5362csg0101.html
Section 6S is the Cooling System Section and consists of 6 pages including photographs.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/5362csg/5362csg06s06.html

[Mark S.]

Re: 62 Lower Radiator Hose Replacement help?

For the earlier years, the Corbin hose clamps can be even more challenging!

[Wally A.]

Re: 62 Lower Radiator Hose Replacement help?

My input, the very first thing i would do, is pull the hood. fenders/hood surround prone to cracking along hood edge.
they do not like the added weight of the human body.