Turn Signal Cancelling

[David F.]

My 63 Vette turn signal cancelling has not worked since I bought it 6 years ago. I removed the steering wheel to examine the internal parts. They all look like the picture on page 148 of Corvette Central. Nothing is broken, springs are in place, cam and pawls are there. What am I missing?

[Frank D.]

Re: Turn Signal Cancelling

My 63 Vette turn signal cancelling has not worked since I bought it 6 years ago. I removed the steering wheel to examine the internal parts. They all look like the picture on page 148 of Corvette Central. Nothing is broken, springs are in place, cam and pawls are there. What am I missing?

The 63 is one year unique with the mechanical part of the signal components under the horn button and the electrical in a switch on the column near the floorboard connected by a cable. Are you saying the signals actually work (e.g. the lights blink) but they don't go off after a turn, or, they don't work at all ?

You are better off referring to the AIM than some vendor's catalog pictures...the inside of the top (mechanical) part should look as pictured and the hooked end of the cable should be over a pin that controls setting/canceling the signals (as shown)...

IF the cable is over the pin and the cable is not broken then check the adjustment of the cable...it should move the electrical switch from each end to the center as the turn signal handle is cycled through its positions.

Them make sure your canceling cam is correct and not worn out (2nd picture)...

[David F.]

Re: Turn Signal Cancelling

Thanks for quick reply. Yes the turn signals light and blinking with the manually operating signal control lever. You are wright should reference Shop Manual page 12-17 for better picture. I put back the steering wheel while waiting for replay so I will need to remove it again to check if the pawls are correctly installed and the cam is not broken. Friday's 5/29/2020 project .

[David F.]

Re: Turn Signal Cancelling

I took off the steering wheel and all the turn signal parts look good. Pawls and canceling cam are correct. What it looks like to me is the canceling cam does go down into mast jacket to reach the pawls. After re-assembling the steering wheel fully seated, there is a gap between the mast jacket and the turn signal housing. Gap is big enough for me to look in and see canceling cam. Do I need to adjust the mast jacket up the shaft to engage the signal housing? Is the mast jacket position adjustable? Could some advice before using shop manual to make adjustment.

[Frank D.]

Re: Turn Signal Cancelling

There is no way the gap should be large enough to peer into and see the internal turn signal parts. Here is my 63..

[Harry S.]

Re: Turn Signal Cancelling

There are a number of points in the AIM that describe where the steering column, jack shaft and cone need to be located. Check those against your car and you will probably find it's out of alignment. No need to remove anything from the car, just loosen a few bolts and make adjustments.

[David F.]

Re: Turn Signal Cancelling

Thank you from a Back-Yard-Mechanic. I was looking for a major problem but with your encouragement I found the adjusting screw on the directional signal housing. Loosened it up, slid the housing and tightened the screw. Now directional signals are, working I can take out my 63 Vette for enjoyable ride.

[David F.]

Re: Turn Signal Cancelling

Update. I followed instructions and cancelling cam now makes connection. Went for a Sunday drive and lost directional signal completely. Check all the obvious lights, flasher, fuse only to discover after pulling the steering wheel the signal cable has come off the lever arm. Tried re-installing multiple (2-dozen plus) and after operating signal lever (4-5 time) the cable loop jumps off the lever arm. Will a new cable fix my problem or do I need to replace the lever arm. C2 Drectional signal cable.jpg

[Timothy B.]

Re: Turn Signal Cancelling

If you have a AIM for 1963 and look at that cable connection it mentions rotating the cable assembly after connection before tightening the screw. Without looking at the assembly you have that may solve your problem. Take a look in the AIM.

[Frank D.]

Re: Turn Signal Cancelling

That is true but if you look back at my cable "loop" coils in post #2; you'll see that yours are munged up a bit, that prob isn't helping.

[Timothy B.]

Re: Turn Signal Cancelling

I am going from memory but I recall a direction telling what loop to have inward or outward, it's a note on the AIM sheet.

[David F.]

Re: Turn Signal Cancelling

I pulled my copy of AIM read about he wire loop to back side of crank rod. First I removed the bracket screw and the bracket could be lifted out without the cable assembly. I pulled up the cable assembly and crimped the bracket to hold the assembly together. Reassembled the cable/bracket assembly and tightened screw. Then twisted the cable loop with back side over the crank rod (see picture). Crank rod has no grove for cable loop wire to catch on. Thought it should but I would just work with what I got. Thanks for the TIP to review the AIM.20200707_100517.jpg

[Gerald C.]

Re: Turn Signal Cancelling

Frank,

what should that gap measure? The steering column is out of my 63 and I'd like to know what the gap should be because if I make the gap almost nill, I feel the spring inside the horn pawl that connects to the horn ring in the upper bearing.

Thanks

[Frank D.]

Re: Turn Signal Cancelling

Frank,

what should that gap measure? The steering column is out of my 63 and I'd like to know what the gap should be because if I make the gap almost nill, I feel the spring inside the horn pawl that connects to the horn ring in the upper bearing.

Thanks

The 63 uses a column "sleeve" at the top of the column and does NOT use a spring if that is what your concern is...
If you are using an upper bearing from a passenger car, ignore the spring. The "sleeve" is item 6 in the AIM graphic.
If you're missing the sleeve LICS used to have it but with their changeover, I don't know who else does.

[Gerald C.]

Re: Turn Signal Cancelling

My sleeve is in place and the spring I'm referring to is inside the horn pawl that goes through the steering hub. If I push the hub tight to the housing, I feel a little spring, that's where I'm getting the feel of the spring. I will go out and take a picture so I can show what gap I'm speaking about if that will help.