The purpose of this post is to outline my procedure for restoring original fasteners (nuts, bolts, screws, etc.) for your Corvette project. In my opinion, original equipment fasteners are far superior to reproduction pieces. The old stuff is just plain better and, best of all, they are original. A number of photos are attached that show my step by step results and/or methods. The first photo depicts a mixed batch of original bolts, screws and washers, including a nut that goes with the long bolt. The first step is to clean the pieces with a wire wheel (bench grinder). Degrease any parts as needed first. If the nut or bolt heads have any nicks or burrs, you can carefully remove them with a file.
Make sure to use extreme care when cleaning parts with the wire wheel. They can easily become flying missiles; especially smaller pieces that are hard to hold on to. Photo "A" depicts the fasteners after cleaning with wire wheel. As you can see, the flat and lock washers are not exactly perfect but I will still take them to completion. Some may think the fasteners look good enough to use at this point. But, I do use a couple more steps. The next step is to drop the parts into my favorite cleaner/de-rusting agent - Dr. X (See Photo "B"). This solution will remove remaining rust and also zinc or galvanized coatings. I usually place small pieces in a small cup of solution. The solution will "fizz" up as it works. You can leave the parts in the solution for 10 minutes or so and then check them. If the rust is not gone, drop them back in. For stubborn rust you can use a small stainless steel bristle brush to help loosen it before dropping the parts bac in the Dr. X. Don't worry about leaving the parts in too long - you can't harm the metal. Then remove the parts, rinse them in water and blow dry. Photo "C" depicts the dry parts which will quickly develop a 'flash" rust color. Next, back to the wire wheel to remove any residue and flash rust. Photo "D" depicts the parts following this step. The final step is to toss the parts into a vibratory tumbler with walnut shell media (see photo of Eastwood tumbler). Shake for 30 minutes or so and you're done. Photo "E" shows finished pieces. The finished parts are clean, shiny and ready to be coated with zinc or black phosphate, whatever is correct. DIY kits for these coatings are available from Eastwood and others. Oh, in case you're wondering how to clean the inside surfaces of nuts (threads) and washers, simply use your favorite drill with a rotary brush attachment (see photo of drill with brushes). They come in various sizes (diameters). Use the size that best fits the hole - a bit smaller is better than too big. I use stainless steel brushes for this but you can also get the brushes in brass and plastic. You'll have to decide for yourself whether the fastener quality is satisfactory for your restoration. That said, many original fasteners can be brought back to life using this process.
Make sure to use extreme care when cleaning parts with the wire wheel. They can easily become flying missiles; especially smaller pieces that are hard to hold on to. Photo "A" depicts the fasteners after cleaning with wire wheel. As you can see, the flat and lock washers are not exactly perfect but I will still take them to completion. Some may think the fasteners look good enough to use at this point. But, I do use a couple more steps. The next step is to drop the parts into my favorite cleaner/de-rusting agent - Dr. X (See Photo "B"). This solution will remove remaining rust and also zinc or galvanized coatings. I usually place small pieces in a small cup of solution. The solution will "fizz" up as it works. You can leave the parts in the solution for 10 minutes or so and then check them. If the rust is not gone, drop them back in. For stubborn rust you can use a small stainless steel bristle brush to help loosen it before dropping the parts bac in the Dr. X. Don't worry about leaving the parts in too long - you can't harm the metal. Then remove the parts, rinse them in water and blow dry. Photo "C" depicts the dry parts which will quickly develop a 'flash" rust color. Next, back to the wire wheel to remove any residue and flash rust. Photo "D" depicts the parts following this step. The final step is to toss the parts into a vibratory tumbler with walnut shell media (see photo of Eastwood tumbler). Shake for 30 minutes or so and you're done. Photo "E" shows finished pieces. The finished parts are clean, shiny and ready to be coated with zinc or black phosphate, whatever is correct. DIY kits for these coatings are available from Eastwood and others. Oh, in case you're wondering how to clean the inside surfaces of nuts (threads) and washers, simply use your favorite drill with a rotary brush attachment (see photo of drill with brushes). They come in various sizes (diameters). Use the size that best fits the hole - a bit smaller is better than too big. I use stainless steel brushes for this but you can also get the brushes in brass and plastic. You'll have to decide for yourself whether the fastener quality is satisfactory for your restoration. That said, many original fasteners can be brought back to life using this process.
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