front springs

[Mel S.]

Does anyone know of a safe way to install the front springs in a 1966 small block?
Thanks
Mel

[Richard G.]

Re: front springs

A threaded rod through the center seems to work well. Especially if the body is off and the engine out.
I did mine this way after attempting several other methods first.
Picture isn't mine but shows the process well.

spring install.jpg

[Owen L.]

Re: front springs

Yes, rent or borrow a coil spring compressor. It's really the only safe way to do it and even then it requires care and attention.

[Ed S.]

Re: front springs

Yes, rent or borrow a coil spring compressor. It's really the only safe way to do it and even then it requires care and attention.

I think both Auto Zone and Advanced Auto have them in their "loaner" tool box. No charge to use it, just a credit card for a deposit - Adv Auto wants it back in 30 days I think. You get your deposit back when you return the tool. I think you can check the inventory of their loaner tool box on line.

[Mel S.]

Re: front springs

Thank you for the information. i will give it a try
Mel

[Thomas N.]

Re: front springs

I use a threaded rod through the center. I actually made a YouTube video going through the process, including the drawing for the lower block to mount to the lower shock mounting points. The video is located at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K0COGAbOdi0 The nice thing about this approach is if you will not mark up your springs if they are coated at all.

[Joseph S.]

Re: front springs

Chevrolet Service Manual details a method using two threaded rods to raise the swing end of the lower control arm with the steering knuckle installed. Have used this method on both Corvette bare frames and F bodies (using a small jack). Had to use this method when spring compressor wouldn't give the necessary clearance for installation. Also on bare frames it eliminates the need to stabilize the frame. good luck

[Richard G.]

Re: front springs

Just to clarify, I did attempt to use the standard style spring compressor. The type of spring compressor that works from inside the spring was untenable because there wasn't any way to remove it after the spring was installed. This is the most common style of compressor and the likely loaner style. The type that grabs the spring from the outside had interference issues, the rods that compress the spring contacted the "A" arms and I wasn't able to pull the "A" arms close enough together to get the spindle nuts attached. If one is able to harness the weight of the car the spring doesn't have to be compressed as much and a floor jack, or other options can be incorporated. Sometimes the floor jack is used in conjunction with the spring compressor. Because of how the “A” arms form a “V" the clamping affects the spring. The spring tends to bend more at the inside and will bow. I found this bow very frightening. As I am old and much wiser than I used to be I no longer take chances like I used to. I believe the largest diameter rod that can be installed, through the center, with appropriate plate washers on the end is one of the safer methods.
Best of luck
Rick

[Gary S.]

Re: front springs

Thomas,
Good video. Very descriptive.

Rick,
I just finished refreshing the bushings on my 72 and used a 5/8" rod, 1/4" steel plate and appropriate nuts and washers as well as a floor jack to get it started. It was interesting watching that spring compress and I actually ran a chain through the coils just in case.

Gary S.

[Scott S.]

Re: front springs

Be careful, you are playing with a loaded GUN!

[Thomas N.]

Re: front springs

Scott is right, you need to be careful when working around coil springs. They have a lot of stored energy, and definitely do not use box store threaded rod.
With the approach in the video, I would much rather have a solid rod going right down the center of the load (no cantilever loading) and in pure tension (which steel loves) unlike most of the coil spring compressers that you can actually use on the Corvette coil springs. What's nice is you can just let it hang, take breaks, and move into position without the need for three hands.
A medium strength 5/8" steel rod had an ultimate strength of 120,000 psi. The area of a 5/8" rod is .31 square inches, for an ultimate strength of 37,200 pounds.
Assuming a 550 lb spring rate, and the spring compresses 4" during installation, that corresponds to a load of 2,200 pounds during compression.
This yields a factor of safety of 16.9
I'm ok with that.

But with whatever approach you use, be careful.

[Mel S.]

Re: front springs

Thanks for all of the good feed back. Jim from V-tech rebuilt my trailing arms and upper and lower A-arms. I talked to him. He recommended a "Moog" spring that is about 3"-4" shorter and does NOT affect the ride height or comfort. These went right in. I strapped my body down to my lift. I placed my floor jack under the A-arm with a piece of wood on the jack and jacked it right into place. I am fortunate to have a lift in my garage. i am doing a body off on my 66 convertible and would HIGHLY recommend Jim. He did everything to spec. and was always read to answer questions.
Mel

[Gary B.]

Re: front springs

I use a threaded rod through the center. I actually made a YouTube video going through the process, including the drawing for the lower block to mount to the lower shock mounting points. The video is located at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K0COGAbOdi0 The nice thing about this approach is if you will not mark up your springs if they are coated at all.

Thomas,

Great video. Instead of cold rolled steel, could the blocking plate be made from aluminum? It's seems very beefy and I think AL would be fine. I'd much rather machine Al than steel.

Gary

[James W.]

Re: front springs

Can this procedure shown by Thomas be used on a C2 Corvette with the body and engine in place? How long is the threaded rod? <br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
<br />
James

[Edward D.]

Re: front springs

I use a threaded rod through the center. I actually made a YouTube video going through the process, including the drawing for the lower block to mount to the lower shock mounting points. The video is located at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K0COGAbOdi0 The nice thing about this approach is if you will not mark up your springs if they are coated at all.

Thomas, viewed your video with interest. I do something similar with a drilled flatbar below the lower arm shock hole, but it can slide around. However I really like your block that mounts to the shock bolts. I'd buy one if anyone made them. I suppose I can have one made since you supplied the blueprint, but it sure would be easier to purchase one already made. You interested in making any of these to sell to the community?