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Holley #3810 Rebuild Question

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  • Dale M.
    Expired
    • December 27, 2007
    • 386

    Holley #3810 Rebuild Question

    Rebuilding a 67 Corvette 300HP Holley #3810 Carb. All seems to be good except for a leak on the transfer tube between the 2 fuel bowls. We used the Holley
    37-1537 Renew Kit Carburetor Rebuild Kit
    The o-rings for the transfer tube seem loose and did not quite seal when the car is running. The OD just seems too small. I called Holley and then sent me seals #26-37 and #108-97. Neither of these seems to correct the leaks. Holley said there are 3 different seal types. Anyone run into the situation?

    Thanks
    Dale Maris
  • Michael H.
    Very Frequent User
    • December 1, 1987
    • 726

    #2
    Re: Holley #3810 Rebuild Question

    I've seen where people will put 2 seals on each end of the tube to stop the leaks.

    Mike

    Comment

    • Dale M.
      Expired
      • December 27, 2007
      • 386

      #3
      Re: Holley #3810 Rebuild Question

      I received some great help from Bob Kuntz in St. Louis. He told me that Holley makes a new style transfer tube that seals much better. He also suggested that I use "Cold Weld" on the outside of the two plugs that are leaking. I ordered Holley #26-115 and will see how they work - oops they were back-ordered.

      I hope I have this all solved when I get my parts.

      Comment

      • Michael H.
        Very Frequent User
        • December 1, 1987
        • 726

        #4
        Re: Holley #3810 Rebuild Question

        Originally posted by Dale Maris (48325)
        I received some great help from Bob Kuntz in St. Louis. He told me that Holley makes a new style transfer tube that seals much better. He also suggested that I use "Cold Weld" on the outside of the two plugs that are leaking. I ordered Holley #26-115 and will see how they work - oops they were back-ordered.

        I hope I have this all solved when I get my parts.
        Dale is "Cold Weld" the same thing as JB Weld ? My two plugs still seep fuel after using JB Weld maybe it's the ethanol that's eating away the JB Weld. I haven't found anything yet to stop the small seepage.

        Mike
        Last edited by Michael H.; November 12, 2019, 07:24 PM.

        Comment

        • Dale M.
          Expired
          • December 27, 2007
          • 386

          #5
          Re: Holley #3810 Rebuild Question

          I was told that Cold Weld is not like JB Weld, that Cold Weld will hold up to gas and alcohol. Was also told that if you need to rremove it, use a torch and heat it up and it will come off. I have not used it either, but will see. PS - said that part stores should have Cold Weld.

          Good Luck with those fuel leaks, not what any of us want.
          (I will tell on myslef as I put the Holley Sniper on my '64, no leaks and it starts and run very good) Hope I am not kicked off the forum.

          Comment

          • Steven B.
            Very Frequent User
            • April 11, 2012
            • 233

            #6
            Re: Holley #3810 Rebuild Question

            You might want to try using the Holley 37-119 Renew Kit. They are about $34 on Amazon, and probably about the same at your local parts store. It will have the correct o-rings. I've had my 3810 apart a few times, and replaced the rings with no leakage problem. You probably are aware of this but there is end play in the transfer tube, and with a little vaseline on the rings, and centering the tube, you shouldn't have a problem with leakage if using the rings in the kit. JB Weld makes a clear that may not be as noticeable and it is supposed to be impervious to fuels. I had some leakage, which I am fairly confident is a common problem, and I bought new fuel bowls from Chicago Corvette about 5 years ago. They had a lot of NOS parts. I know some have had problems with purchases from them in the past, but I didn't have any issues. The bowls were under $100 each, and I don't think I actually paid that much, but I don't know if they are as readily available now and may be higher priced. If your carburetor is original as mine was, you may wish to keep as much of the originality as possible, which was my objective. These carburetors seem to be offered for somewhere North of $700 if looking for a replacement. On my carburetor, someone, in their infinite wisdom at some point, also plugged the vent on the top of the primary bowl. I'm sure the previous owner didn't know much about his car other than how to drive it. Good luck.

            Steve

            Comment

            • John D.
              Very Frequent User
              • June 30, 1991
              • 875

              #7
              Re: Holley #3810 Rebuild Question

              Last year my original dated 3810 started acting up early in the driving season and I bit the bullet ($$$) and bought a brand new one and it ran perfectly right out of the box.

              Comment

              • Dale M.
                Expired
                • December 27, 2007
                • 386

                #8
                Re: Holley #3810 Rebuild Question

                Steven, One of my local NCRS buddies recommended that I only purchase an 'original' Holley rebuild kit and after a couple of times with conversations of Holley Tech Support I purchased Part # 26-115 at $103+ from them. I was very concerned because NON of the specifications in the literature listed the 3810 carburetor. We just chose a number as close to 3810 as we could when setting the flats, etc. I had put in our carb number 3810 into the Holley web site at

                https://www.holley.com/products/fuel.../rebuild_kits/

                On that page, you can look up your card number and they show rebuild kits for your card. That search does not show the 37-119.

                I guess this attempt to help a fellow club member really help me with my knowledge.

                Thanks for everyone's replies and help. Dale

                Comment

                • William F.
                  Extremely Frequent Poster
                  • June 9, 2009
                  • 1363

                  #9
                  Re: Holley #3810 Rebuild Question

                  Are you putting the o rings onto the tube ends as Holley manual says, not inserting them into the bowls?

                  Comment

                  • Steven B.
                    Very Frequent User
                    • April 11, 2012
                    • 233

                    #10
                    Re: Holley #3810 Rebuild Question

                    The 37-119 kit is a Holley Renew Kit made by Holley for the 4160 series carburetors. If I remember correctly, I zeroed in on it after a bit of research and I believe a Google search will also kick it out. In the specifications section, it also lists the 3810 and the appropriate settings. I did purchased a Holley 37-933 Trick Kit for Holley carburetors when I recently rebuilt a 4150 series 850 CFM carburetor on another car I have, and found that I spent over $100 on a kit that had way more parts than I needed. I think you meant $10.30 on the 26-115 transfer tube. At any rate, the 37-119 kit had all the parts I needed plus the transfer tube o-rings, so I'm still using the original transfer tube. My carburetor is working pretty much flawlessly as of late (knock on wood) after playing with the float levels. Hope the new tube will eliminate your issues with leakage.

                    Comment

                    • Dale M.
                      Expired
                      • December 27, 2007
                      • 386

                      #11
                      Re: Holley #3810 Rebuild Question

                      Yes, I put the o-rings on the transfer tube then inserted them into the bowls. I used some silicone sealer on subsequent tries. Since they leak at both ends, I don't think I have an issue with the tube being not centered.

                      Comment

                      • Dale M.
                        Expired
                        • December 27, 2007
                        • 386

                        #12
                        Re: Holley #3810 Rebuild Question

                        Thanks for all the great info. The 37-119 kit would have saved money. Don't know how Holley's search works, but this kit did not come up. If I was smart enough maybe I should have use 4160 to find kits.
                        Thanks, I will get it working, I am sure.

                        Comment

                        • Timothy B.
                          Extremely Frequent Poster
                          • April 30, 1983
                          • 5186

                          #13
                          Re: Holley #3810 Rebuild Question

                          Dale,

                          Plain and simple I think you have the wrong o rings, probably some metric size.

                          Comment

                          • Dale M.
                            Expired
                            • December 27, 2007
                            • 386

                            #14
                            Re: Holley #3810 Rebuild Question

                            Thats what I thought. I can find any specifications as to there actual size. I need a thicker, larger OD o-ring, just a little bit would work. Thanks

                            Comment

                            • John P.
                              Expired
                              • September 30, 2004
                              • 22

                              #15
                              Re: Holley #3810 Rebuild Question

                              I also bought a brand new Holley 3810 from Holley and it runs flawlessly. It made a world of difference and I have had no leak issues as well.

                              Comment

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