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C2 Gas Fumes

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  • Joe T.
    Expired
    • February 25, 2018
    • 153

    C2 Gas Fumes

    I have a 1966 427 425 HP. My garage has the smell of gas fumes. The gas cap is an original vented cap. I am using aviation fuel. They seem to have increased with the use of aviation fuel. Can not see any leaks underneath. The smell is coming from the back. Any thoughts and/or recommendations?
  • Harry S.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • July 31, 2002
    • 5295

    #2
    Re: C2 Gas Fumes

    Had the same problem. Added a second gasket on the gas cap, problem solved.


    Comment

    • Larry M.
      Extremely Frequent Poster
      • January 1, 1992
      • 2691

      #3
      Re: C2 Gas Fumes

      You may have a bad gasket or gasket leak between the tank and the filler neck. Try to tighten (gently tighten) the 10 or so small head bolts, and if that does not work replace the gasket. Also try and keep the tank level about 2/3 full or less. Don't fill up to the very top (20 gallons).

      Larry

      Comment

      • Rich G.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • August 31, 2002
        • 1397

        #4
        Re: C2 Gas Fumes

        Check for leaking fuel sender, too. I had that on my 66.

        Rich
        1966 L79 Convertible. Milano Maroon
        1968 L71 Coupe. Rally Red (Sold 6/21)
        1963 Corvair Monza Convertible

        Comment

        • Joe L.
          Beyond Control Poster
          • February 1, 1988
          • 43219

          #5
          Re: C2 Gas Fumes

          Originally posted by Joe Terravecchia (64506)
          I have a 1966 427 425 HP. My garage has the smell of gas fumes. The gas cap is an original vented cap. I am using aviation fuel. They seem to have increased with the use of aviation fuel. Can not see any leaks underneath. The smell is coming from the back. Any thoughts and/or recommendations?

          Joe------


          Use a gas cap with a rubber gasket. Save the one with the cellulosic (paper) gasket for judging only. The 1969 gas cap (also SERVICE for 1963-68) has a rubber gasket. It's GM-discontinued but available as manufactured by Stant. Stant #10853.

          Also, the gasket between the fuel filler and tank is very failure-prone. It is a cork gasket. I recommend making a new gasket out of a sheet of buna-N material. This will be a forever gasket. When replacing the gasket you also need to straighten the flange of the filler neck. It will be distorted at each of the screw holes. Simply use a small hammer and wood block to straighten it much as one does for oil pans. Also, you need to replace the special screws with new ones with the same rubber seals. Re-using the screws sets you up for continued leaks, liquid or vapor.
          In Appreciation of John Hinckley

          Comment

          • Joe T.
            Expired
            • February 25, 2018
            • 153

            #6
            Re: C2 Gas Fumes

            Thanks to all of you I found my problem. The sending unit was replaced last year. It started to have a very small infrequent drip. I removed the spare tire and support then was able to tighten it from the bottom. I also replaced the gas cap gasket.

            Comment

            • Timothy B.
              Extremely Frequent Poster
              • April 30, 1983
              • 5186

              #7
              Re: C2 Gas Fumes

              Joe,

              Are you saying the locking ring on the sender was not completely turned to it's stop?

              If that's the case I would recommend not using the shop that replaced the sender as it's mounted on the tank bottom which could be disaster if the locking ring failed because of not being turned to it's stop. IMO, it's something that does not get installed wrong.

              Comment

              • Dan B.
                Expired
                • July 13, 2011
                • 545

                #8
                Re: C2 Gas Fumes

                Originally posted by Timothy Barbieri (6542)
                Joe,

                Are you saying the locking ring on the sender was not completely turned to it's stop?

                If that's the case I would recommend not using the shop that replaced the sender as it's mounted on the tank bottom which could be disaster if the locking ring failed because of not being turned to it's stop. IMO, it's something that does not get installed wrong.
                There is no excuse for that (agree with Tim 100%) in fact, the newer vehicles also have locking rings for the fuel pump assemblies (which incorporate the sending units) so even a new car mechanic should be able to do it properly.

                Comment

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