1967 Hood release handle

[David S.]

Just attempted to open the hood on my 67.
Handle came off in my hand.
Has anybody had any luck reattaching theirs. Appreciate any ideas.
Only 53 years they don't make things like they use to.
Thanks
Dave

[Richard G.]

Re: 1967 Hood release handle

I am unsure how much meat you have left in the plastic handle. All the repairs I am suggesting assumes there is some extra plastic in the threaded area. Another assumption is that it is threaded on and not molded into the handle.

E-Z Lok Externally Threaded Inserts. Good news is they require no special taps only the standard taps.
HeliCoil Screw Locking Inserts. Require less meat than the above style. Also require a, manufacture specific, special tap.

[David S.]

Re: 1967 Hood release handle

Thanks Richard for your response.
A 67 hood release handle is a metal casting no plastic at all.
I looks like it was just pressed fit on.
I was hoping someone had experienced this and had a quick fix.
I was hoping someone has tried glue successfully.
Hate to replace an original with a repop
Dave

[Jeffrey S.]

Re: 1967 Hood release handle

Dave,
If the release handle is similar or the same as the one used in C3's, I wrote an article for the Mich chapter "Vette Signal" on the repair I made on my '69. It allows you to keep the handle and replace only the wire to the latch. The picture in the Paragon catalog of the handle looks the same but I'm not certain of the construction. I tried to attach the article here but the website says that it is an "invalid file". I have no idea what that means and what to do next to get it uploaded.
Jeff

[Edward D.]

Re: 1967 Hood release handle

I have seen them drilled and tapped for a set screw from the underside. This will work but is not NCRS "correct". You could try a bit of JB Weld epoxy, its quite strong if mixed correctly but I'm not sure if it will hold.

[Harry S.]

Re: 1967 Hood release handle

The one on my 63 broke. I drilled it out, obtained the same thickness piano wire then used JB Weld to attach. I let it setup for a week before I tested it. Well, I put one end in a vice and pulled like hell. I was nervous at first but it's been in the car for years.

[David S.]

Re: 1967 Hood release handle

Thank you guys for your ideas
Dave

[Mark B.]

Re: 1967 Hood release handle

Remove the little retainer on the end of the cable. A couple of pairs of strong needle nose will remove the bend without damage. Take the 2 bolts out that hold the under dash bracket on and slide the cable thru the grommet. Push the handle on the cable all the way with a soft hammer and use a vise on a drill press or b'port. Mark the drill bit for depth if it's a drill press and drill from the top of the handle thru the cable and TO the second side of the handle if you're feeling lucky. You are NOT drilling all the way thru. Going in to the second side of the handle gives a tighter joint if you can control the depth. I used a 3/32 roll pin or spirol pin, can't remember. You could put the pin a little below the surface and putty over it if you want. I thought I took pics but can't find them. I've got more than I need of replacing the contact point for the clock with a new surface but seemed to miss the hood release Aaarrggh. If you're near casino-land CT you can come over and do it.

[David S.]

Re: 1967 Hood release handle

Thank you Mark. I am going to remove the hood release assembly and look at it closer. If you don't mind I may contact you again
Thanks Dave

[Mark B.]

Re: 1967 Hood release handle

Remove the little retainer on the end of the cable. A couple of pairs of strong needle nose will remove the bend without damage. Take the 2 bolts out that hold the under dash bracket on and slide the cable thru the grommet. Push the handle on the cable all the way with a soft hammer and use a vise on a drill press or b'port. Mark the drill bit for depth if it's a drill press and drill from the top of the handle thru the cable and TO the second side of the handle if you're feeling lucky. You are NOT drilling all the way thru. Going in to the second side of the handle gives a tighter joint if you can control the depth. I used a 3/32 roll pin or spirol pin, can't remember. You could put the pin a little below the surface and putty over it if you want. I thought I took pics but can't find them. I've got more than I need of replacing the contact point for the clock with a new surface but seemed to miss the hood release Aaarrggh. If you're near casino-land CT you can come over and do it.